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Hello,
I've decided to replace head gasket/vrs, cooling hoses and clutch/ flywheel starting in the coming weeks.
What is the consensus regarding engine out vs gearbox back? Keeping in mind other work mentioned..
I have an engine crane, ramps, jack with transmission plate.
Also, has anyone got any hints/tricks/ keepinminds?
Thank you
It's usually a fair bit quicker pulling the box , but in your case engine out would be better , especially if you have no hoist but you have an engine crane , check the state of the engine mounts before pulling the engine ( you want at least 5-10 mm gap from the steel base to the rubber , bonnet off , fan off ( with the radiator try and keep water in it if your not replacing it as, if you leave them dry too long the plastic tanks can distort ) check / change the oil pump bolt and renew every "0" ring ( that includes fuel cooler and engine oil cooler as well as p/s pump hose ,oil rotor filter housing , fpr , etc ) with viton where you can . engine out is pretty straight forward , make sure to take out the crank position sensor (8 mm socket 1/4 drive)
1 The heater hose at bottom of radiator (drivers side) is very close to the fan blade...loosen, twist, and retighten it and/or cover it with a metal sheath.
2 I had a foreign object come from the front tyre to between fan and radiator on corrugated road - holed the radiator bad!!! So i suggest to put some sort of stone guard in that area.
3 An audible temperature alarm will not be regretted.
4 Underneath on passenger side there is a space - from memory nearly 1 metre long by about 150mm by 150mm. This is a great space for a 30 litre water tank which just begs for an electric water pump. mine is stainless steel but a piece of pvc pipe would be sufficient.
5 Air cleaner on top of snorkel? try looking at donaldson.
6 I'm sure you will have a compressor, mount it under driver's seat.
7 put a secret key somewhere under the car.
8 If you are towing you should cover the rear window with layer/s of perspex/plastic etc to prevent broken window. Spares are not readily available!!!!
I would add the simple things: A complete service! Change every filter, fluid etc - ALL of them! You never know the real maintenance history of a used car.
PS: traveling in an D2 TD5 as well :thumbsup:
I would suggest you get yourself a lifestraw.
They are a very small reverse osmosis filter that can filter 1000 litres of water. You can safely drink any water with them - even waste body fluids if you are desperate.
Tested to surpass EPA standards for removing E. Coli, Giardia and Cryptosporidium oocysts, and many other waterborne contaminants.
Filters up to 1,000 liters of water down to 0.2 micronsZero aftertaste; no chemicals or iodine
Just search Ebay for them - around $20.
Cheers
Ok Nobody has yet mentioned the fuel manifold at the tank , which is what stopped me in Kununurra for a while after failing on the GRR.
Mine had been changed in about 2004 on the recall but the mechanic left a small wiring loom lying on the high pressure pipe to the engine. This wore through the pipe.
A bit of a PITA but maybe worth while to pull out the manifold and wrap spongy tape around it.
This was the only problem I had in a round OZ trip.
The other show stopper is the "hidden" radiator hose behind the turbo. You will see it if you remove the turbo heat shield. It suffers the highest temps of all hoses and usually is the one that fails first.
If you decide to flush the radiator , it is almost guaranteed that the little plastic bleed plug in the top radiator hose will either break or break the thread in the hose. So plan on a new hose. I have a brass plug in mine but I don't know whether it will change the propensity to break the thread.
Regards Philip A