But there was a reason for the ones I listed. [wink11]Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
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But there was a reason for the ones I listed. [wink11]Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
TAHAIC , just re read your post.
Disconnect the provent drain from returning to the sump and put a tap on the end so you can drain the condensate and dispose of it.
Crankcase gases aren't just air and oil it also contains water vapour which can react with the oil vapour creating acids, which is not what you want back in your sump.
Very good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mal
[edit] the toilet roll style by-pass filters claim they will trap a small % of water, but what happens to it in the element? AFAIK there isn't desiccant in there like activated alumina so I'm wondering if it would still react with the oil as it flows through?
Also, really curious what oil you intend to run?
Will there still be enough pressure in the line for sender to work now the line is open to the filtration unit?
Won't be an issue if it's a properly engineered by-pass filter as the flow into the filter is usually regulated by an orifice, or just the pressure drop through the media if they are the old toilet roll style.Quote:
Originally Posted by strangy
The big problem remains additive depletion, and from what I've read I haven't seen anything commercially available that ultimately filters better than the centrifuge on the TD5.
Oil doesn't last forever in an internal combustion engine.
Additive depletion, TBN depletion, (increasing acidity) from by-products of combustion contaminating the oil and oxidation all contribute to engine oil losing its effectiveness to lubricate properly.
Oil testing is geared toward contaminant testing, water, soot, wear metals, coolant, dirt. We have no real idea what additives and at what levels an oil contains, only some common ones from testing a virgin sample.
Just had a look at amsoil ones, for the price I'll just stick to regular oil changes and vehicle inspection. ..
Something like this is not a viable option???
Attachment 135215
I understood that this kind of oppinion is not needed as the decission is made but i can't help myself to say that IMO no filter would override the oil's thermal breakdown.... and that's unavoidable in a turbocharged engine like the Td5 which used to have hot episodes under heavy load
Oxidation is a direct result of thermal breakdown.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
We'll also have the things we've spoken of in recent threads where viscosity index improvers shear in use, particularly in oils with a very wide viscosity range, our 5W-40's and 0W-40's.
Some blenders have been able to overcome this in recent years, Castrol Germany is one that comes to mind where the polymeric thickeners they use in their premium oils actually mimic base oils in use and don't shear, they use some sort of chemical trickery ! Or at least something way beyond the understanding of a mere tech. [tonguewink] but most wide multigrade oils shear quite a bit in use and then thicken as they oxidise.
We can't stop these chemical reactions from happening, a filter can only remove particulates.
Do you currently do any UOA with the factory filtration setup? From what I've seen of the TD5 filtration system it is among the best out there with that centrafuge. You may not actually achieve any extra filtration with an additional bypass filter. If you do UOA then you'd see that at standard oil change intervals theres generally a lot of servicable life from the oil (not just LR - nearly any vehicle). And from my experiance soot is one of the major things in an oil that condems it regually - which isnt so much of an issue in most direct injection diesels anymore.
