cylinder balances, engine shutdown, TD5.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AK83

LOL! fingers have been battle hardened from years of excessive keyboard pounding!
Keyboard is worn 'to the bone' tho .. literally no lettering remains [bigrolf]

Yeah, we had plans to do injector seals wayy back then, when it was mentioned as a possible cause.. but as said, problem sorted itself and then the plug jiggle sorted a couple of incindences.

Have done a quick search and found that a long allen key of appropriate size could act as a lever to remove injectors.
Alternative is I can make up something using various bits of steel I have lying about.
I'm ultra cautious when doing stuff like that, where more harm could be done if done incorrectly.

One other question: if injector seals are dud, does the fuel always flow into the oil, or is that a possible symptom.
In all this time, oil level has been checked to be fine in every diagnosis.

---

Give the injectors a wiggle sideways before lifting with Allen key. The injectors have 2 seals on them. A oring seals the top and stops the sump filling with fuel. A copper washer is on the bottom and seals it from combustion pressures

As Woko said , you will also need to rotate the engine to allow all the injectors out past the cam lobes ( eg , if the no 1 cylinder is on tdc , do injectors 3, 4, and 5 , then rotate 180 degrees and do 1 and 2 ), the contact faces need to be spotless. Make sure injectors go back in the same place

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by discorevy

Tried to tell op that a few times in November, Justin , by the way Trevor Bennet says hello, I didn't know you worked down this way .

---

😊😊 one of the best jobs I've had... hes a great fellow please pass on my regards to Rita too ☺. Next time I'm over there i will be calling in to say hi☺.

Jc

And please tell me they are genuine washers and o rings...

Jc

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by justinc

And please tell me they are genuine washers and o rings...

Jc

---

I'll make doubly sure when I see bro next time.
I've told him to organise getting a timing pin tool too, info I've seen on doing the seals talk about locking the front cam sprocket whilst doing the job.

Will update when the work is done.

Compare the thickness of the new genuine o-rings with the old ones cos there are confirmed cases of wrong size genuine o-rings which are thinner, seen one case with my own eyes when i helped a friend, after the injectors dropped into theyr's places without any resistance being obvious they are not sealing he had to go to a local specialist store and order viton o-rings based on the old one's dimensions... the o-rings were green in a LR pack supplied by a UK online store... other two cases reported on other forums.... something similar with what happened with the front dive shaft seals. :wallbash: said it here too WARNING!!! td5 injector o-rings

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AK83

I'll make doubly sure when I see bro next time.
I've told him to organise getting a timing pin tool too, info I've seen on doing the seals talk about locking the front cam sprocket whilst doing the job.

Will update when the work is done.

---

Certainly DONOT lock the cam sprocket! !! As you will need to remove the fuel pump fuse and briefly crank the engine to remove any diesel from the cylinders before refitting the injectors, this will cause total carnage if there is a pin inserted...😣😣..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by justinc

Certainly DONOT lock the cam sprocket! !! As you will need to remove the fuel pump fuse and briefly crank the engine to remove any diesel from the cylinders before refitting the injectors, this will cause total carnage if there is a pin inserted...😣😣..

---

OK thanks.

I've read that some folks say to change the fuel filter at the same time.
Makes sense too if it's done at a major service interval, or if close too, but this one has only done about 1-2K klms or so.

two quick questions while I remember them now, and have to scoot:

1. the old one way bleed/return valve thingy in the fuel filter head is stuck in it's old brass fitting. trying to pull the plastic valve out via the flanged section results in the flange section wanting to rip apart.. its stuck good and solid.
Is that a problem? haven't checked new one to see it's it's OK or not, but when new it just slid in/out easily. is it safe to assume the new one will be fine after only a couple thousand K's?
I can't see what would make it stuck so hard, my understanding of it is that it's on the LP side of the fuel line.

2. back on the topic of cylinder balances. Via the nanocom, they ALL go wild in terms of values, about 10sec before engine shuts down.
That is, they'll register values of +/- 5 or so, and maybe 7 or 8 on cyl 2.
Then suddenly they all show wildly different values of between +32/-27 or so(hard to keep a track of them all, but a rough guide) .. then you can feel a slight roughness to the way the engine runs, and a second or so later dead!

Haven't measured how long between each engine run before shut down, and driving gently or hard makes little difference .. but we get approx 5 mins between each drive session.
After each shut down, engine runs perfectly.. smooth and powerful.

Fuel pump(new and genuine VDO) doesn't make any noises other than a very quite humming/whirring sound, which is more easily heard while car is off, but Ign on. With car running, harder to hear and you have to make a concerted effort to hear it.

Did change fuel pump relay(just in case it was overheating) .. but have yet to try driving it without.

Which is why I eliminated the injector seals idea before: Makes no sense why car would run perfectly for about 5mins, then suddenly shut down.

You should try to measure the fuel pressure with a gauge in the temp sensor's port of the FPR though cos those injector balances are sign of fuel pressure drop, it's possible for the HP side of the pump to fail and run only on LP, even if the pump is new IMO worth a check before going further