Nulon in Engine Oil

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Originally Posted by AK83

On the topic of additives(but not exactly) on reading other's positive comments on here and other places, I thought to try out the CEM(Cost Effective Maintenance) oil flush and coolant flush/additive products.

My 300 Tdi totally blackens it oil after about 500klms after a fresh oil change. I'm talking about total black black.
After my first go with it recently, I did it their way, flush old oil, start the flush process using a cheap oil with the flush stuff with about 1/2 hr idling.
That new cheap oil came out as black as the old oil did. Filled with the new oil and now nearly 2K later, whilst the oil is black again, it's not the thick black it used to be after 500 odd klms, it's more of a translucent black.
That is it's black but I can see the metal dip stick behind the black oil now. Pre flush, it was a straight up jet black on the dip stick.

Also used the coolant flush on the Tdi, and even tho I gave it two flushes(garden hose type) prior to the CEM flush product and have been running straight water(no coolant) for a few months.
With the CEM coolant flush, I just added it ran the car for a couple of days, then dumped the straight water/flush product. it came out rusty looking, plus some old green coolant that I thought was dumped the first time around.
The other thing that happened with the coolant flush product was that a film of rusty vapour has settled on the inside of the coolant reservoir above the water line. Water(plus this CEM coolant stuff) is still a very slightly murky brown colour, but it seems to have loosened a bit of rusty stuff out of the coolant galleries/hoses/etc and 'evaporated' it where it could(ie. above the water line in the coolant reservoir.

So I'm similar to twr7cx .. in that I'm not against additives or products that claim to enhance/protect/clean ... etc.
I just want more evidence of the products doing what they claim too, and still need to see non manufacturer evidence for myself.

If there was a way to coat a surface with a low temperature PTFE coating .. you'd think it'd be available for many other applications too.
It's not, and so the more sensible approach is to be in doubt, than to simply accept manufacturer claims!

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While I haven't used their oil flush yet, a good friend who's advice I respect told me I should try their Cleanpower injector cleaner and upper cylinder lubricant. It is used at 2.5ml per 10 litres but they recommend a double dose first time.
He gave me enough to dose the car a couple of tanks so I thought why not give it a go.
First tank with the double dose I got quite a bit of smoke on acceleration, didn't notice any improvement in performance, but got a good fuel economy.
Second tank I'm part way through now and the car is noticeably more flexible, less lag down low, and the best fuel consumption I've had from the car...
I think it's not so much increased power, but has fixed up some performance loss from dirty injectors.
I am doing a service in about a week, and I intend to do the oil flush from them and see what happens.

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Originally Posted by rick130

Must refrain from responding.
Must refrain from responding....

[emoji23]

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[bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig]

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Originally Posted by AK83

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Also used the coolant flush on the Tdi, and even tho I gave it two flushes(garden hose type) prior to the CEM flush product and have been running straight water(no coolant) for a few months.
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Remind me not to buy that vehicle. From the RAVE Workshop Manual for the V8, Tdi and Mpi engines:

Use an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze (containing no methanol)
V8i, Tdi, Mpi with non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors suitable for use in aluminium engines to ensure
the protection of the cooling system against frost and corrosion in all seasons. Use one
part anti-freeze to one part water for protection down to -36°C (-33°F).
IMPORTANT: Coolant solution must not fall below proportions one part
anti-freeze to three parts water, i.e. minimum 25% anti-freeze in coolant otherwise
damage to engine is liable to occur. Or a maximum of 60%.

Straight water (even so-called "demineralised" water) is not good for anything with a mix of alloy and iron/steel components.
Google "electrolysis dissimilar metals" for a bit more info.

Well done Dave 😁😉

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Originally Posted by DeanoH

Engine oil additives come in two distinct 'flavours'.

Flavour No 1. (Hummingbird Pheremone Flavour)

This you add to your existing oil to enhance performance, reduce fuel consumption, increase HP, re-rejuvenate worn parts and make you and your vehicle 'nearer to God than thee' (choose your own Nirvana(s) here) :)
For the conspiracy theorists they add the components removed by the Castro loving, war mongering political/military/industrial government types who want your engine to wear out prematurely so as to maximise their filthy capitalistic profit (wave flag here whilst holding hands and singing Kumbuyah) whilst totally ignoring the fact that it's the same oil companies selling the additives that you've supposedly been deprived of in the first place.
It helps to have some psuedo scientific names to throw about here along with a picture of a dolphin or two, smiling children (of different ethnecities) and an inference that our hummingbird pheremones are better than our competitors non organic hummingbird pheremones and that pollution will be lessened to leave you with a nice fuzzy feeling about how politically correct/socially responsible you are being :)

All of the above totally ignores the fact that the vehicle manufacturer and the oil companies probably have half a clue when it comes to specifying the correct oil for a vehicle and assuming the OP's D2a has run OK for the past 16 years on the manufacturer specified oil why mess with it ? In other words WOFTAM.

Flavour No.2. (Chocolate)

Aah ............. Chocolate, a good sensible choice for most ice cream devotees :)

Supplementary engine oil additives can be useful when trying to 'compensate' for the effects of wear and tear/ageing in an engine. A good example of this is the seal softeners sold by Wynns, Penrite etc and particularly Risoline that can 'restore' old hardened oil seals to effectively reverse a leaking rear main or timing cover seal. Very cost and time effective (when they work). They won't fix a damaged seal but can be 'magic' when used on an old hardened seal. Another example of a good effective additive is the example given by Sieraferry earlier, a tappet noise quietener. There are others out there that I am sure 'work as advertised'.

The difference here is that these 'chocolate flavoured' additives are used to mitigate or hide symptoms of engine ageing, usually in older, worn engines that may not be an economic proposition to repair normally or where a temporary solution is required. IMO when used correctly these additives are not a WOFTAM :)

Deano :)

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:eek2::eek2::eek2: at the end of the day Deano if a snake oil makes the end user happy and feel warm and fuzzy inside, is it harmful or still a con?

Unless they have changed their opinion, Du Pont, who invented the stuff, said it has no useful effect in oils but is unlikely to do any harm. Maybe a Google search can put the matter to rest.

Skinned Knuckles magazine had a series of articles over several months by a lubrication engineer. He had the same opinion as Du Pont. One interesting thing in his articles was that he says there are only four refineries in the USA making lubricating oils. The four make and package for all and sundry. Like the big battery factory in Carol Park. No difference in the batteries just the labels applied at the end of the line.

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Originally Posted by donh54

Remind me not to buy that vehicle. .....

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No worries Don.
Won't have to remind .. it'll never be for sale anyhow.

water for now is just the cleaning phase.
I've had coolant(concentrate) for a few months now just sitting in the shed, still waiting for the opportunity to use it.

I'm not going to add coolant until I know the system has been cleaned out thoroughly.

BTW, the CEM coolant flush/additive does have corrosion protection/inhibiting attributes!

In sixty years of playing with motor vehicles the only oil additive I ever found to be worth a knob of goatpoo was the original Wynn's Charge which hit the market in the 1960's. I had a used car yard for a while then and Charge was the answer to a bomb dealers dream. Bung in a can or two and old Smoky Joes stopped using oil and fuming for a couple of thousand miles or at least until well after sale. We used it by the carton putting at least one can in every car. Then some time later the formula must have been changed as it no longer had such a brilliant effect. Bugger!

We found mince meat in the gearbox and diff shut up noisy ones very effectively but don't be nearby when the meat and oil sludge was drained months later. 600W steam cylinder oil was also good. Fibrous wheel bearing grease in worn suspensions and steering joints worked for long enough to sell the pile of pus.

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Originally Posted by Bigbjorn

In sixty years of playing with motor vehicles the only oil additive I ever found to be worth a knob of goatpoo was the original Wynn's Charge which hit the market in the 1960's. I had a used car yard for a while then and Charge was the answer to a bomb dealers dream. Bung in a can or two and old Smoky Joes stopped using oil and fuming for a couple of thousand miles or at least until well after sale. We used it by the carton putting at least one can in every car. Then some time later the formula must have been changed as it no longer had such a brilliant effect. Bugger!

We found mince meat in the gearbox and diff shut up noisy ones very effectively but don't be nearby when the meat and oil sludge was drained months later. 600W steam cylinder oil was also good. Fibrous wheel bearing grease in worn suspensions and steering joints worked for long enough to sell the pile of pus.

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A man after my own heart!
I found the same thing with Bardhal Number 2 - worked great for smokey donks, but they must've changed as well. Did banana skins in an old Dodge gearbox once, but never heard of the meat trick! Guess I'm not too old to learn new tricks, after all.

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Originally Posted by Bigbjorn

In sixty years of playing with motor vehicles the only oil additive I ever found to be worth a knob of goatpoo was the original Wynn's Charge which hit the market in the 1960's. I had a used car yard for a while then and Charge was the answer to a bomb dealers dream. Bung in a can or two and old Smoky Joes stopped using oil and fuming for a couple of thousand miles or at least until well after sale. We used it by the carton putting at least one can in every car. Then some time later the formula must have been changed as it no longer had such a brilliant effect. Bugger!

We found mince meat in the gearbox and diff shut up noisy ones very effectively but don't be nearby when the meat and oil sludge was drained months later. 600W steam cylinder oil was also good. Fibrous wheel bearing grease in worn suspensions and steering joints worked for long enough to sell the pile of pus.

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Originally Posted by donh54

Remind me not to buy that vehicle. From the RAVE Workshop Manual for the V8, Tdi and Mpi engines:

Straight water (even so-called "demineralised" water) is not good for anything with a mix of alloy and iron/steel components.
Google "electrolysis dissimilar metals" for a bit more info.

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Originally Posted by donh54

A man after my own heart!
I found the same thing with Bardhal Number 2 - worked great for smokey donks, but they must've changed as well. Did banana skins in an old Dodge gearbox once, but never heard of the meat trick! Guess I'm not too old to learn new tricks, after all.

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Maybe you can set up a used car yard together, Queensland is far enough away from me that I won't have to work on the fallout[bighmmm]