Questions and more questions TD5 mods, preventative maintenance etc

1. I want to keep her cool and keep an eye on egr, oil pressure, engine temp etc. i found the link for the coolant level warning alarm on here, so that’s covered. I’d like to mount the accessory gauges on the drivers front window pillar if possible, nice small gauges and neat finish would be good if possible but any tips on gauge placement are welcome. junk the egr with a removal kit, fit the level alarm, if your tall enough fit the gauges ontop of your speedo pod thing otherwise just put beside the speedo and build a box that takes them a uhf, gauges you need are coolant temp, the rest are just nice to have

2. Exhaust. I may or may not do a ECU re-map in the future. I know there are conflicting views on how much of a good idea this is, and that it may cause issues but i’ll cross that bridge down the track. I know all about the exhaust manifold warping, i will cut the webbing as a preventative measure. Am thinking about ceramic coating and would like tips on what to do with the rest of the exhaust system (bearing in mind i may do the re-map). Rough guide on price and solutions would be great https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2017/04/60.jpg,i would not worry about a remap, exhaust leave at the stock 2 1/2in remove the std flex joint and put a truck style flex joint in $30ish, if you want it a bit noiser remove the muffler and cat under the passenger side leave the resonator at the rear, manifold best thing you can do is fit 10mm studs

2. Intercoolers. Alisport looks good, any other brands? Rough guide on prices and places to get them from would also be awesome.it has one just give it a clean, if you really want something bigger just get a d2a one

3. Trans coolers. Same goes for this; rough guides, places to buy? I will do a fair bit of sand driving so i figure this is a good idea good idea your looking $100-150

4. Under body protection. Diff guards good idea? I will get front bar, rear bar, steering protection and fuel tank guard for sure. Any other bash plates to consider. diff guards and rated recovery points are you main things, then id go rock slider's and a winch cradle for a winch if you cant afford a bullbar as well.

5. Any other tips on upgrades welcome.

full service and all fluids inc power steering and filter's, check tie rod ends etc, if unsure how long since last auto service drop the oil refill do a weeks drive then change the filter and fluid again the new oil in an old box not regular serviced can clean up and move old dirty and block the fresh filter so best to do this then put new filter, btw just if you can do it your self just run dex3 oil and change it every 20k and replace filter every 40k.
check power steering reservoir to pump hose for rubbing down at sump,
remove radiator and give it clean and clean the air-con condenser while it's out.
put a new top hose on it since your screwing in the coolant alarm old one may not like being undone and redone back up,
new thromostat,
replace all plastic coolant hose to rubber (they run from radiator to header tank)
drop the sump off and remove and check oil pump bolt has lock tight on it put more on and refit,
rebuild the front drive tail-shaft and double Cardin joint,
if it doesn't have it fit a center diff lock shiftier,
fit 235/85r16 tyres or get a 2nd set of rims to fit them too,
put a new set of springs and shocks in they will be sagged to bugger by now and may as well lift it, if you want a plush ride fit RRC kings springs 2in lift raised comfort they are 150lb to 250lb progressive springs,
check the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking if so replace it rebuild kits generally leak again not long after,
fit a new injector electrical harness,
matt wrap your bonnet so it doesent reflect in your face,
drop front headlinner down and reseal around the seam near the top of the a pillar on the inside and also redo the outside so it wont leak water on you,
if your tall cut the seat stop blocks on the seat rails off so you can move the seat back further and be comfortable,
make sure all the diff/gbox/transfer case breathers are connected and not blocked and they run to the engine bay at minium,
put hose's into the aircon drain tubes and run them so it doesn't drop on the tail-shaft or xyz switch
watch ebay for a cheap new xyz switch it will play up at some point-mine played up all the time untill my new arrived and not an issue since [bigrolf] new one still sitting in glove box threatening the old one

edit
also get a starter solenoid kit and do it now their is one bad nut to do most people forget to put that one back it will jsut save issues latter on and their cheap.

​but the most important thing is get a scan tool like a nanocom as its a Landrover it will chuck a wobbly now and then and 80% of the time you clear the code and it wont come back till it cracks the wobbly's again

All up, my D2 has cost just under 3 grand. That includes buying it, 2 new airbags, injector harness, and a bunch of filters, belts, etc. I reckon another grand or so, and we will be ready to head off to the desert for a while, then who knows where after that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lyonsy

1. I want to keep her cool and keep an eye on egr, oil pressure, engine temp etc. i found the link for the coolant level warning alarm on here, so that’s covered. I’d like to mount the accessory gauges on the drivers front window pillar if possible, nice small gauges and neat finish would be good if possible but any tips on gauge placement are welcome. junk the egr with a removal kit, fit the level alarm, if your tall enough fit the gauges ontop of your speedo pod thing otherwise just put beside the speedo and build a box that takes them a uhf, gauges you need are coolant temp, the rest are just nice to have

2. Exhaust. I may or may not do a ECU re-map in the future. I know there are conflicting views on how much of a good idea this is, and that it may cause issues but i’ll cross that bridge down the track. I know all about the exhaust manifold warping, i will cut the webbing as a preventative measure. Am thinking about ceramic coating and would like tips on what to do with the rest of the exhaust system (bearing in mind i may do the re-map). Rough guide on price and solutions would be great https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2017/04/60.jpg,i would not worry about a remap, exhaust leave at the stock 2 1/2in remove the std flex joint and put a truck style flex joint in $30ish, if you want it a bit noiser remove the muffler and cat under the passenger side leave the resonator at the rear, manifold best thing you can do is fit 10mm studs

2. Intercoolers. Alisport looks good, any other brands? Rough guide on prices and places to get them from would also be awesome.it has one just give it a clean, if you really want something bigger just get a d2a one

3. Trans coolers. Same goes for this; rough guides, places to buy? I will do a fair bit of sand driving so i figure this is a good idea good idea your looking $100-150

4. Under body protection. Diff guards good idea? I will get front bar, rear bar, steering protection and fuel tank guard for sure. Any other bash plates to consider. diff guards and rated recovery points are you main things, then id go rock slider's and a winch cradle for a winch if you cant afford a bullbar as well.

5. Any other tips on upgrades welcome.

full service and all fluids inc power steering and filter's, check tie rod ends etc, if unsure how long since last auto service drop the oil refill do a weeks drive then change the filter and fluid again the new oil in an old box not regular serviced can clean up and move old dirty and block the fresh filter so best to do this then put new filter, btw just if you can do it your self just run dex3 oil and change it every 20k and replace filter every 40k.
check power steering reservoir to pump hose for rubbing down at sump,
remove radiator and give it clean and clean the air-con condenser while it's out.
put a new top hose on it since your screwing in the coolant alarm old one may not like being undone and redone back up,
new thromostat,
replace all plastic coolant hose to rubber (they run from radiator to header tank)
drop the sump off and remove and check oil pump bolt has lock tight on it put more on and refit,
rebuild the front drive tail-shaft and double Cardin joint,
if it doesn't have it fit a center diff lock shiftier,
fit 235/85r16 tyres or get a 2nd set of rims to fit them too,
put a new set of springs and shocks in they will be sagged to bugger by now and may as well lift it, if you want a plush ride fit RRC kings springs 2in lift raised comfort they are 150lb to 250lb progressive springs,
check the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking if so replace it rebuild kits generally leak again not long after,
fit a new injector electrical harness,
matt wrap your bonnet so it doesent reflect in your face,
drop front headlinner down and reseal around the seam near the top of the a pillar on the inside and also redo the outside so it wont leak water on you,
if your tall cut the seat stop blocks on the seat rails off so you can move the seat back further and be comfortable,
make sure all the diff/gbox/transfer case breathers are connected and not blocked and they run to the engine bay at minium,
put hose's into the aircon drain tubes and run them so it doesn't drop on the tail-shaft or xyz switch
watch ebay for a cheap new xyz switch it will play up at some point-mine played up all the time untill my new arrived and not an issue since [bigrolf] new one still sitting in glove box threatening the old one

edit
also get a starter solenoid kit and do it now their is one bad nut to do most people forget to put that one back it will jsut save issues latter on and their cheap.

​but the most important thing is get a scan tool like a nanocom as its a Landrover it will chuck a wobbly now and then and 80% of the time you clear the code and it wont come back till it cracks the wobbly's again

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Thanks for taking the time to write all that lyonsy! I’m taking pretty much all those tips on board.

I’m in 2 minds about the map. I’m not convinced it’s a bad idea unless you have a heavy right boot and enjoy wringing it’s neck. I like to keep the revs under 3k mostly under 2.5, around 2 for the first 5mins of driving after a few minutes warm up. The economy improvement is the main reason and if i’m being honest just a tiny bit more power would be nice too

Don’t want it loud but thought removing the rear might help a tiny bit with power and economy. 2a intercooler was also on my mind.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by donh54

All up, my D2 has cost just under 3 grand. That includes buying it, 2 new airbags, injector harness, and a bunch of filters, belts, etc. I reckon another grand or so, and we will be ready to head off to the desert for a while, then who knows where after that?

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3k!!! Holy mother of hezus! I thought i was doing well at 6! Well done mate! Enjoy your trips [emoji106]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lyonsy

1. I want to keep her cool and keep an eye on egr, oil pressure, engine temp etc. i found the link for the coolant level warning alarm on here, so that’s covered. I’d like to mount the accessory gauges on the drivers front window pillar if possible, nice small gauges and neat finish would be good if possible but any tips on gauge placement are welcome. junk the egr with a removal kit, fit the level alarm, if your tall enough fit the gauges ontop of your speedo pod thing otherwise just put beside the speedo and build a box that takes them a uhf, gauges you need are coolant temp, the rest are just nice to have

2. Exhaust. I may or may not do a ECU re-map in the future. I know there are conflicting views on how much of a good idea this is, and that it may cause issues but i’ll cross that bridge down the track. I know all about the exhaust manifold warping, i will cut the webbing as a preventative measure. Am thinking about ceramic coating and would like tips on what to do with the rest of the exhaust system (bearing in mind i may do the re-map). Rough guide on price and solutions would be great https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2017/04/60.jpg,i would not worry about a remap, exhaust leave at the stock 2 1/2in remove the std flex joint and put a truck style flex joint in $30ish, if you want it a bit noiser remove the muffler and cat under the passenger side leave the resonator at the rear, manifold best thing you can do is fit 10mm studs

2. Intercoolers. Alisport looks good, any other brands? Rough guide on prices and places to get them from would also be awesome.it has one just give it a clean, if you really want something bigger just get a d2a one

3. Trans coolers. Same goes for this; rough guides, places to buy? I will do a fair bit of sand driving so i figure this is a good idea good idea your looking $100-150

4. Under body protection. Diff guards good idea? I will get front bar, rear bar, steering protection and fuel tank guard for sure. Any other bash plates to consider. diff guards and rated recovery points are you main things, then id go rock slider's and a winch cradle for a winch if you cant afford a bullbar as well.

5. Any other tips on upgrades welcome.

full service and all fluids inc power steering and filter's, check tie rod ends etc, if unsure how long since last auto service drop the oil refill do a weeks drive then change the filter and fluid again the new oil in an old box not regular serviced can clean up and move old dirty and block the fresh filter so best to do this then put new filter, btw just if you can do it your self just run dex3 oil and change it every 20k and replace filter every 40k.
check power steering reservoir to pump hose for rubbing down at sump,
remove radiator and give it clean and clean the air-con condenser while it's out.
put a new top hose on it since your screwing in the coolant alarm old one may not like being undone and redone back up,
new thromostat,
replace all plastic coolant hose to rubber (they run from radiator to header tank)
drop the sump off and remove and check oil pump bolt has lock tight on it put more on and refit,
rebuild the front drive tail-shaft and double Cardin joint,
if it doesn't have it fit a center diff lock shiftier,
fit 235/85r16 tyres or get a 2nd set of rims to fit them too,
put a new set of springs and shocks in they will be sagged to bugger by now and may as well lift it, if you want a plush ride fit RRC kings springs 2in lift raised comfort they are 150lb to 250lb progressive springs,
check the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking if so replace it rebuild kits generally leak again not long after,
fit a new injector electrical harness,
matt wrap your bonnet so it doesent reflect in your face,
drop front headlinner down and reseal around the seam near the top of the a pillar on the inside and also redo the outside so it wont leak water on you,
if your tall cut the seat stop blocks on the seat rails off so you can move the seat back further and be comfortable,
make sure all the diff/gbox/transfer case breathers are connected and not blocked and they run to the engine bay at minium,
put hose's into the aircon drain tubes and run them so it doesn't drop on the tail-shaft or xyz switch
watch ebay for a cheap new xyz switch it will play up at some point-mine played up all the time untill my new arrived and not an issue since [bigrolf] new one still sitting in glove box threatening the old one

edit
also get a starter solenoid kit and do it now their is one bad nut to do most people forget to put that one back it will jsut save issues latter on and their cheap.

​but the most important thing is get a scan tool like a nanocom as its a Landrover it will chuck a wobbly now and then and 80% of the time you clear the code and it wont come back till it cracks the wobbly's again

---

Forgot to mention 2inch lift and suspension have already been done, also drive - tail already done

on uni student wages i would not worry about tune, tunes are fine if it gets more boost to burn the fuel and not just dumping fuel in, they are not like truck engines with 2 piece pistons with steel crowns that handle the hose being turned up they are just cast alloy and dont like big heat for long periods ie a truck will handle egt temps of up to 700 but a car/4x4 you want to keep it down below 550, also its a diesel they dont accelerate hard but they will hold speed very well if you want it to go fast get a v8 one.

with the exhaust you are best to leae the resonator in and remove the muffler, depending on condition of muffler will comedown to if you get more power or not, if its not buggered and collapsed you wont notice much difference at all apart from more noise

econmey will be more affected by tyre width and right foot and what stuff you put on it, keep skinny tyre's and dont put bull bars and rooof racks and you will get in the 10-12L put all that stuff on and wide tyre's and you will be landcruiser fuel economy range of 15L, best tip for driving is keep revs at 2500 or below and just let the torque converter do its thing

After Lyonsy excellent write up the only things i can add are,

Check the small water hose under the rear of the ex. manifold [it could be blocked of already]
Replace the serpentine belt and repack the tensioner pulley bearing with new grease or replace if sus. Keep old belt as a spare.
Hoses rub through everywhere on these things that's what the mirror and torches are handy for.
Looks like you have a 10p motor [1999 to 2002] have a read about the head problems they can have.

1st thing is to fit another way for checking the coolant temperature, a gauge or an alarm don,t rely on the factory gauge it's useless.

Hi Jezzarezza,

All great advice from fellow members!

Re more power,
Have you turned up the boost to max? This will give you a little more power but the only way is with a remap.
There’s plenty of info on the forum about this and who to use for this etc.
I have a stage 1 tune that was done using “new” tuning methods and not just dumping more fuel in!

A few questions to ask the tuner if you go this way are

What type of tuning do you use?
Can you tweak the maps to use the original sensors without installing boost boxes etc.

Have a read of this explains everything[emoji13]

DiscoTD5.com | Discovery 2 Td5 ECU Tech and Tuning

There’s a few guys who do tunes

TD5inside, from what others have experienced he’s hard to get hold of

BAS I think are another?

Alivetuning

Storm tuning

Les Richmond automotive

I haven’t used any of these but other will no doubt chime in with there experience

Cheers Lemo

Get a copy of RAVE, at the shop here or formthe usula, cough, cough, suppliers.

lyonsy: Thanks again. Great info even more than I asked for, love it! Funny you mention steel heads, I asked on the facey page if anyone knew of a company that does custom cast iron heads for the TD5. No one new anyone, and everyone kinda made fun of me [bigsmile1] Still, would be awesome if someone did one. I'd love to see how it would compare. maybe when I finish uni I will think about an early M57 BMW 3.0L 6cyl:bat:[bigwhistle][bigrolf]



whitey56: thanks for the extra tips. Yep o'l 10P alright, we'll see how we go. lets hope I get lucky. Deff's getting the low cool' alarm!![thumbsupbig]


Lemo: love your work mate, I'll have a bit of a look when I get the chance. I don't quite understand all the boosting, tuning, fuelling just yet.



Bohica: I went to the shop to search for workshop manual. Needs a spruce up with some info and options for a PDF. I mean who the hell still does CD ROM!!??:bangin::spudnikconfounded::lol2:

oops I'm new here and just found the emoji tool, Sorry Dave :lol2:[bigrolf][thumbsupbig]