Thread: 99 Land Rover Discovery 2 won't turn over

Inertia switch possibly triggered??, open bonnet look on passenger side firewall for a black rubber covered button, press it to reset

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Inertia switch possibly triggered??, open bonnet look on passenger side firewall for a black rubber covered button, press it to reset

x2

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Inertia switch possibly triggered??, open bonnet look on passenger side firewall for a black rubber covered button, press it to reset

I have already tried the inertia switchand I can hear the fuel pump pumping. I have also tried resetting it. but it still won't turn over.

It Sounds like the ECU is immobilized.
Don’t know anything about the diagnostic tool you have, however suspect it won’t be the best help.
I’d check the security status of the engine ECU.
It should say “not immobilised”

The Foxwell is OBDII only, so probably won't give you many, or any, of the D2 TD5 codes anyhow, as the TD5 is pre ODBII ... so, no error codes doesn't mean there are none.

If you can hook up with someone close by to you that has a more capable scanner like a nanocom, would be helpful for 'ya.

If it were immobilised, the small red LED in the middle at the bottom of the instrument cluster would be flashing.
Doesn't flash when not immobilised, should flash when immobilised.

Which way did the jack slip(inwards or outwards)?
if it slipped inwards, and maybe the engine hit the jack on the way down, maybe something has jammed eg. near the alternator or serpentine tensioner or something, and the engine just won't turn.
Can you turn the engine by hand .. say from the crank pulley bolt, or from the viscous fan hub nut?
The other possibility is that perhaps the jolt loosened the starter solenoid wire on the starter, the small wire with the spade connector. Drivers side, under car, easy to spot, just wiggle it by hand and try starting.

Its not the battery is it? eg wont carry the starting load or the connector has gone bad? Makes me wonder if the jolt was enough to fail a battery that was about to fail.

I had a similar problem, tried different battery, got ECU's to swap, looms checked, the lot. The battery voltage was right, it had been on the charger, tried the rear battery up front and it was the same, no jumping.

Turned out both batteries died (I guess one was carrying the other) and when I replaced the battery, boom, all systems go.