D2 TD5 surging full acceleration issue

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John_D2

.... If that’s ok, can I open the waste gate and visually check and clean it without breaking it? Or is it a take to a turbo shop deal?

....

---

Do you have a compressor?
Do you have a blower gun/nozzle/duster doodad attachment?
If yes to both, use blower attachment on the hose into the wastegate, and watch the movement of the actuator arm as you add air pressure .. smooth/notchy/none at all .. etc.

Even a bike pump would work .. the trick is to get the air into the hose .. into the WG actuator, without leaking too much of it.
If using a compressor, moderate the amount of pressure, remembering that the WG usually runs with about 0-20psi.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lyhoon94

Hi John_D2,

I don't think an internal wastegate actuator can be opened or if it can, I dont think theres much point to it as I believe the internals aren't serviceable.

I was looking at a few replacement options and have the three below

Oem:TD5 Turbo Waste Gate Actuator

Forge:Adjustable Actuator for Defender or Discovery TD5 | FMACTD5 | Forge Motorsport

Turbosmart:Turbosmart IWG75 Landrover TD5 17psi – T.I. Performance

Hope I didn't misread your post and that this actually helps.

---

Thanks for that

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AK83

Do you have a compressor?
Do you have a blower gun/nozzle/duster doodad attachment?
If yes to both, use blower attachment on the hose into the wastegate, and watch the movement of the actuator arm as you add air pressure .. smooth/notchy/none at all .. etc.

Even a bike pump would work .. the trick is to get the air into the hose .. into the WG actuator, without leaking too much of it.
If using a compressor, moderate the amount of pressure, remembering that the WG usually runs with about 0-20psi.

---

Yes I do. That’s a great idea. I’ll do that today and report back. Thanks

It's not the wastegate on the turbo. I removed the bolt at the turbo end and it moves very freely.

In this video I have attached a air blower set to 20psi to the intake hose. Notice the rod moves then stops and moves a bit more. I haven't checked the solenoid yet, but I'm wondering if the actuator is on the way out.

YouTube

Did find this however. Cleaned with carby cleaner.

Edit: weird I added a pic of a gunked up MAP. Now it’s gone.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John_D2

Also, if my airflow is no greater than 400’s or so is there any benefit in changing the MAP sensor for a larger one?

---

You are confusing MAP and MAF sensors there (not the difference in the third letters - 'P' and 'F'). Air flow through is measured by the MAF sensor. 400kg/hr (although Nanocom incorrectly states g/hr) is well within it's range.

This has no or little bearing on uprated MAP sensors.

So in the end, thanks to everyone’s advice, I’ve learnt more about the TD5 engine. It seems that the issue was a really gunked up MAP sensor. After winding back the turbo I finally got it into my head the difference between a MAP & MAF sensor (P= pressure - inlet manifold, F = flow so measures air flowing into the turbo). I checked the MAP, took a pic which vanished, and cleaned it with carby cleaner and compressed air. I’ve already been told on Facebook that carby cleaner probably wasn’t the best choice so I’ll buy some contact cleaner when I go to the auto shop next tine.

The surging seems to have disappeared along with the randomly varying turbo boost readings. So now I’ve spent the last few days gradually adjusting the boost to just under surge point. I’ve got it around 1.25 bar now. I’m wondering if I can squeeze a couple of extra points out of it.

Unfortunately at foot flat to the floor acceleration it’s throwing a fault code that I’ve already started a thread titled ‘flashing MS & D’ where I’m trouble shooting that. Plus my damn exhaust manifold is leaking at number 3 about 200-300k after flattening and reinstalling. I guess it’ll have to come off and I’ll deweb it this time. Did momentarily think about a new AlliSport high flow manifold but it’s in the que behind the long range tank, rear draws, high lift jack/shovel holder, etc.

I did find a cracked/perishing air inlet corrugated pipe. I think I’ll upgrade it to an AlliSport 1 tho.

Leaking manifold is a pain, I found it lowered boost levels a bit and was causing high EGT. I highly recommend ceramic coating the manifold. I dealt with warping manifolds for years and this was part of the solution for reliability. www.jet-hot.com.au - Hi Performance Coating Lowers the under bonnet temperatures too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by twr7cx

Leaking manifold is a pain, I found it lowered boost levels a bit and was causing high EGT. I highly recommend ceramic coating the manifold. I dealt with warping manifolds for years and this was part of the solution for reliability. www.jet-hot.com.au - Hi Performance Coating Lowers the under bonnet temperatures too.

---

Agreed. Only issue is that the ceramic dudes have a 2-3 week lead time & this is a daily drive. Might invest in a 2nd manifold and get it done.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John_D2

Agreed. Only issue is that the ceramic dudes have a 2-3 week lead time & this is a daily drive. Might invest in a 2nd manifold and get it done.

---

APT Offroad used to do them on exchange basis. Your deposit was refunded upon return of your current manifold.

Otherwise source one from a wrecker, have that done and then fit. Keeps the vehicle on the road.