Hi Fery,
It's probably the former. Anyway it's no big deal as it's my third spare now. I bought it when I'd misplaced one of the originals which turned up later. They work perfectly.
I bought a replacement housing from eBay and simply replaced the guts, and the key blade pulled out of the old one, and pushed into the new one. No programming needed! By memory, it was under $15 inc postage
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You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.
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1999 Disco TD5 ("Bluey")
1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
1995 P38A 4.6 HSE ("The Limo")
1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075) soon to be camper
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Hi Fery,
It's probably the former. Anyway it's no big deal as it's my third spare now. I bought it when I'd misplaced one of the originals which turned up later. They work perfectly.
_________________________
Discovery 2 2002 Td5 ES Auto
Defender 110SE 2023 D300
Brilliant, thanks for that. Key no. obtained over the phone thru Land Rover Australia today. So I'm armed with everything I need now...
Come summer, won't have a care in the world if I jump into a high country stream with a key fob in the pocket, unless, of course, the spare is in the other pocket...
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Just a quick update...so I finally managed to get to a locksmith to have a bare metal key cut according to my key code for the vehicle. I was forewarned by the locksmith that I may have some initial issues as my original key was quite worn. Putting the keys side by side there was some similarity, so that was a good start...
Got home and after wrestling with the alligator for near to 30min I finally managed to turn the key in the ignition barrel. Thought I'd need to use a pair of stilsons to assist in the process
Funnily enough I was able to do the EKA code dance in the drivers side door easily enough with the new cut key, but the ignition barrel...my goodness.
Anyhow, there now appears to be a sweet spot in the ignition barrel where I can turn the new key with minimal effort. My original, worn, key is still kosher after all of this.
Now that I know my key code is all good, next step is to get my newly bought key fob cut....
Thanks to all for your assistance, especially to johntins for going out of his way to program my new key fob and modify my EKA to something that will prevent me developing RSI going forwards...you're a good man John
Hi guys, I know that you had this conversation a while ago but I am in a similar situation. I have two brand new D2 Valeo fobs. I have had the blades cut to code and I have a barcode for each that are a mile long. I have a new Nanocom evo and it asks for a 6 figure code when reprogramming. How do you know which part of the barcode is the 6 figure one or is there a formula which converts the barcodes to 6 figures. TIA
Open the fob, there should be a sticker with a six character code stuck to a chip on the underside of the electronics inside.
From memory, what pojir said. I do remember prying the fob apart and flipping the electronics. 18months on and the fob is doing well, still get caught out by the 30sec timeout every now & again...where if I haven't started in that timeframe the truck will fail to crank (with the red led illuminating solidly on the dash). A consequence of an ebay purchase rather than genuine fob I believe. Will gladly take that inconvenience though & also the +$300 saving that comes with it
The short code should be the 6 characters starting from the second one in the long code in that order, as red in the next example
G321C36321C35FF? but if i's not genuine LR fob better check on the PCB
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
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