Thread: D2 key fob programming

Hi Andrew, you've got the answer above and the codes are the same like for the other fobs, it should have one inside too

Hi Steve and Sierra,

Thanks for your replies.

Not having SLS or adjustable air suspension on my vehicle, I just didn't recognize what this aspect was about.

Cheers, Andrew

Further to my Post #40 (8th April) in this thread, I have now received my new D2 remote key fob.
This came with a label exactly as shown below:

*N27FAC727FAC6FF+*

*FFFFFFFFD80538M*

Inside the key-fob shell is a smaller paper sticker with exactly the same character strings printed on it.

I took the code needed to programme the key to be the bolded and underlined 6 characters (i.e.: the first 6 characters after the "N" in this case).

The key-fob came with a CR2032 battery fitted, and the small red light on the fob illuminates when I press either button of the fob.

I then followed the procedure shown in the Black-Box Solutions video that Sierrafery has posted links to in the past.
However, when I reached the "SYNC" step and got to where you press a fob button, the Nanocom responded with "No key signal detected". I was sitting inside the vehicle when I was doing this, so signal strength should not be a problem.

I then phoned the Locksmiths from whom I purchased the key (via ebay) to see if they had any advice.
Using the first seven characters after the initial "N" was mentioned.
So was using the entire character string, including the initial "N".

However, the Nanocom seems only to accept six characters for the code, so I cannot even try either of those.

Can anyone see what I might be doing wrong, or suggest what else I could try, to get my new key programmed to the vehicle BCU?

Cheers, Andrew

I have just done the "RF Test" under Nanocom UTILITIES, with both an existing, working key and my new one.
The Nanocom reports that a key signal is detected from both.
But trying to lock or unlock the car with the new fob has no effect.

Hi Andew

The process is a bit fiddly and when I did it many years ago it took a couple of goes to get the key/s paired up.

There is a YouTube video that demonstrates how to do it and I think there is a link to it on the Nanocom website as well.

You’re welcome to send me PM and we can see if it can be nutted out over a phone call or in person.

cheers

Steve

As long as the old fob works and the new one is not detected the problem is with the fob that's sure. Ask for refund cos those sellers are full of bollox especially if they said to use 7 characters for syncronisation

Many thanks, Steve and Sierra.

Steve, I had previously watched the Nanocom you-tube video on the key programming process, as I know that Sierra and others have posted links to it a few times in various posts.

I had a thought, which was to have another try, this time using the first 6 characters of the supplied key code sticker, including the initial "N". So, I entered "N27FAC" for the key code.
This had the surprising result that the key SYNC step reported that it had successfully completed.
But, the KEY DETECT step failed.
Also, the key code that I had entered (N27FAC) had changed itself in the Nanocom display to 727FAC, which is actually a part of the character string on the label supplied with the fob, but from near the middle of that string!
I find that pretty bizarre.

Again, the Nanocom UTILITIES / RF TEST function reported that a signal was received from the new fob, so I think that means the frequency emitted by the fob is correct (433 MHz for my MY2004 D2a). But the new fob doesn't lock or unlock the doors.

I then carefully opened both my existing, working fob and the newly supplied one.
Photos of the inner components of both are included below.

The new fob is obviously quite different from the existing, working one, in several respects.
It looks as if I may have been sent a fob for a Rover 75 or Freelander, as Sierra has previously provided alerts about.

On the strength of this, I plan to go back to the seller and try for a replacement fob.
In the meantime, I had the physical key-blade cut to the profile code for my car (based on info from JLR Australia and my VIN). But fortunately, I have a spare blank key blade that I could return to them along with the fob, if they'll agree to supply the correct replacement fob.

Thanks Steve and Sierra for taking the time to respond - I am pretty sure that we have narrowed it down to a dodgy / incorrect fob.

Cheers, AndrewMilne

Hi Andrew , that fob will never be able to be programmed with nanocom , They are what all the ebay sellers are fobbing (pardon the pun) off on buyers, yes it is 433mhz but will not be detected using Nanocom.
As far as I'm aware it can only be programmed with a locksmith that uses car smart pro ? software.

Originally Posted by discorevy

Hi Andrew , that fob will never be able to be programmed with nanocom , They are what all the ebay sellers are fobbing (pardon the pun) off on buyers, yes it is 433mhz but will not be detected using Nanocom.
As far as I'm aware it can only be programmed with a locksmith that uses car smart pro ? software.

Thanks Craig,
No mucking around with those observations (and I appreciate that)!
My position is that, if I can't get it replaced with one that can be programmed with a Nanocom, I don't mind if it has to be done another way, so long as it can be done so that the additional key works properly.
I could take it back to the locksmith in Perth that cut the blank blade ('cos they asked me if I needed them to do the programming as well - at the time I thought & said not).
Let's see how I go with getting a replacement, first.

But I have a question: is it not the BCU that detects the key signal, not the Nanocom?
I would think that the Nanocom only displays what the BCU "knows" and "sends" to the Nanocom.
Is that not correct?

Regards, Andrew