Thread: D2 key fob programming

Originally Posted by Rok_Dr

Yes My ebay special had that piece in it as well.

Does anyone know if it able to be coded to the D2 by a specialist?

Cheers

Steve

See my previous reply

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Hi. That's not a D2 fob, it's for Rover 75, BMW, or Freelander and that bit is a so called "transponder", these are quite often sold as D2 fobs by some schmucks . If you have the 6 digit code on the PCB you can sync it to the D2 but it will not completely disable the immobiliser and you'll have to give unlock command again if you dont start the engine within few seconds after the vehicle was unlocked. Scroll down untill the pic and read in FAQ section here Land Rover Discovery II Discovery Series 2 year 1999 to 2006 | Remote Key, UK

the D2 fob must have that pointed bit instead of the "transponder", see this D2 key fob programming

Hi Sierra,

Many thanks for responding (I was hoping that you would!)

Using my Nanocom, I was able to programme this new fob to the BCU (both the "SYNC" and "Key DETECT" steps succeeded).
The fob would then unlock and lock the car. GREAT!
Then, after getting the blade cut to profile, it started the car. BETTER still!

BUT - you are right, if I wait more than a few minutes after unlocking, the key turns in the ignition lock barrel, but does not start the car. It is fine if I start it straight after unlocking.

AND, if I lock & unlock again, it will start the vehicle if I try soon after.
It actually took me a day or two to discover this issue.

You are also correct about the missing component, which I had recognized as being the case before I bought this replacement fob.
Below is a pic of the interior of my existing, working fob.
The new internet-sourced fob is missing the top-left-most three components shown in this image (sorry that it appears twice).

Attachment 171645Attachment 171646Attachment 171646

As I already have two proper, fully-working remote fobs, I can live with the incomplete starting ability with this extra key.

Sierra, I would like to clarify two points.

1) In keys that actually use the transponder, does it need to be electrically connected to the PCB in the fob case (on this one, I cannot see how that would be done, as there are no external contacts), or does it work by RF signal/s?

2) With the D2a, is it correct that the transponder serves no purpose at all, and can safely be thrown away?

Thanks, Andrew Milne

The image I wanted to attach is (hopefully) here this timeWorkingExistingFob_BatterySide.jpg

The transponder in the Rover fob is useless for D2, no effect, you can bin it

You can buy a genuine fon sit down and I'll tell you the price. Are you seated? good. $420.00

I'm just bumping this thread in case anyone finds it in future and is using an eBay Rover key (the kind with no 6-figure code inside the key fob).

If you have done everything correctly but still can't synch the key fob, install 1.36b firmware to your Nanocom, then try again.

I did this and it worked for me straight away after lots of frustration.

Doing this the fob will work but as discussed above it's sort of limited, if you don't start the car within a minute the immobiliser will lock the car (the transponder in these fobs doesn't work with the D2). In which case lock and unlock and it'll work.

Originally Posted by Arnoooooooooold

I'm just bumping this thread in case anyone finds it in future and is using an eBay Rover key (the kind with no 6-figure code inside the key fob).

If you have done everything correctly but still can't synch the key fob, install 1.36b firmware to your Nanocom, then try again.

I did this and it worked for me straight away after lots of frustration.

So do you say that the 1.36b firmware can synk a fob without the 6 figure code???

Originally Posted by johnp38

I had to bring my Nanocom firmware up to 1.36b otherwise with 1.35 I had rf detected ok and message saying it was synced but it failed in practice.

The notes for 1.36b do mention a fix for key programming issues, once I updated the firmware it all fell into place easy nano peasy.

And I got a cheap $30 key from KEYECU Auto car remote key, key shell, Transponder Key of all brand (they have 315 mhz and 433 mhz) and $10 at local shopping centre locksmith to cut blade.

As per John's message yep, I coded a cheap eBay Rover key using the long barcode given, no 6 digit code inside the key.

As per an earlier post (may have been yours) it's required to extract the digits from the long code.. but it works.

Nothing has changed on the Nanocom interface. The only difference is that with 1.36b the key fob synchs on the second screen and is visible. Previous attempts didn't pass this step.