I got front and rear ashcroft lockers on my D2, standard axles and CVs, only snapped 1 Cv, have about 2 spare haha
Never really had an issue other than that
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I got front and rear ashcroft lockers on my D2, standard axles and CVs, only snapped 1 Cv, have about 2 spare haha
Never really had an issue other than that
I suspect I may be one of the very few that ran the Maxidrive HD front axles and CV's. Use them with ARB lockers and 34x11.5" Simex JT2's and never really worried about them. These were built for the Bowlers, I got in on the order by sheer good luck but I don't think they have been made since have they? As far as I know they were a Rangie CV with different outer axle and a ring pressed around the CV and matched to hituff axles. Never the less they did start clicking eventually and I replaced them with Ashcroft front axles and CV's which have been faultless (apart from the boots) since their installation. ARB's lockers have been faultless also.
I have written a piece prior, search it, on mixing traction diffs. Some struggled with the concept, but basicaly, I think to make the diffs work as best as possible together you should run either selectable lockers F&R or ATB's F&R, but not to mix them. Mixing them does work and is a big improvement, but not mixing them is a better operation with the diffs working together.
Gday Scott, I left the back lash set up to a fella that had a good name in doing them, so I can't comment on setting them up buddy.
Thanks for the replies gents. Very helpful. Cheers.
I have Ashcroft axels in the rear and their HD CVs in the front with ATB's front, centre and rear. If I was doing it again I would consider an auto locker for the rear instead as found the ATBs are fantastic everywhere except really sloshy mud, and wouldn't bother with the front CVs at all. The Ashcroft CVs have been a pain.
I have multiple issues with the Ashcroft HD CVs:
1. They don't come with the dust shields/seal things on the shafts. I can't figure out why, it wouldn't be a big item for Ashcroft to machine up and include these. Getting the old ones off an original shaft is an extra complication and a pain and risks warping/denting/marking them.
2a. As they're so big the boot can't be fully fitted over until the CV shaft has been fitted to the vehicle. Means that when putting in/taking out it's risky for dirt to get in - suggest cleaning the area around thoroughly. I had dramas with the oil seal sizes being slightly out and ripping the seals over time (check out Ashcroft HD CV shafts and front diff seals - leaking for the fully details and engineered solution) which meant they had to be removed many times, each time having to first remove the larger part of the boot, each time risking dirt/dust entering in.
2b. Because they're so large it's no possible to source a replacement CV band clamp locally. Ashcroft only sell them complete in a kit with the small one and a replacement boot and shipping from the UK is expensive. I found an eBay supplier at Stainless Steel Drive Shaft / Steering Rack CV Boot Clamp 24…119mm (17 sizes) | eBay but I'd need to check what size it is from my purchase history.
3. The boots rip easier than the OEM. Due to being so large there isn't much clearance between the diff tube/swivel parts and so if anything gets in there it rips the boot. Has happened once to me. Since then I've had nothing but dramas with that CV including clicking at full lock. I've had it pulled apart and faces cleaned up but it eventually returns.
Seriously, if you've gotten 300,000kms out of the original CVs, either run them until they die or replace them with new originals and get another 300,000km from them! If your only running the standard diff or an ATB (or equivalent) they're fairly gentle on them. If your going a locker then yeah the HD ones might be worth the trouble...
I'd be very interested to read about this and your reasons. I would have thought the ABS sensors being on each wheel and able to sense and control each wheel separately would mean little difference to it's operation from what diff type is fitted.
I currently have ATB's front, centre and rear and they are fantastic on road, in horrible wet weather, in the snow, on gravel/dirt, especially higher speed, in the paddocks, towing etc - I doubt there is a better combination for traction. But I usually lock my centre diff when off road - therefore mixing? I've been considering removing the rear ATB and fitting an auto locker instead as I have been disappointed a few times now when off roading when I've come to a stand still and felt that if I had a rear locker driving both wheels I would have just pushed through. Given than offloading is only 1% of my vehicles driving, touring, towing, driving through paddocks and horrible weather are more common having something that always provides better traction is a priority for me.
Thanks mate. That's very helpful. How have you found the ATB in situations other than mud? Cheers
Our posts crossed. Cheers
Its hard to beat.
An ATB will never be equal to a locker, anyone who says and believes so is just wrong. Even a vehicle with good traction control and ATB will not be close. If your serious off roading then a locker is the way. Adding a centre ATB to the transfer case would help for the rest of the time when unlocked.
But if your like me where that's only one of many uses for the vehicle and time and distance wise it's only a very small part, then the ATB is far superior in all other circumstances as a locker is just operating as an open diff when unlocked.
It's not as simple as one perfect solution, it's rather a case of various options available, some of which are better for some circumstances, others for others.
Similar, the band came off the boot and it was lost. In the end I double looped thin fencing wire around it and tensioned the wire by twisting off the ends together. Its worked well so far and it is thin enough to clear the axle housing.
Totally agree re your last paragraph.