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Thread: Question - Tyre Pressures and Temps

  1. #1
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    Question - Tyre Pressures and Temps

    I have 6 x LT Pirelli Scorpion ATR for my D2, and after a trip east of Laverton and back got a slow leak in one tyre right on the border between tread and sidewall. Local tyre expert says I can't plug that, but can fit a tube to get some more use out of a less than half worn tyre. I have of course accepted his advice and fitted the tube.

    I happily use Safety Dave TPMS on both cars cos its simple with good alarm systems for both pressure and tyre temps and works well on all wheels (from experience with a slow puncture on the tandem van).

    Question

    If I have to put the tubed tyre on, and especially for highway work, do I need to do or consider anything different with respect to tyre pressure or expected running temps?

    Cheers
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #2
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    nah dont expect anything different pressure or temp wise unless running low pressure's

  3. #3
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    from talking to people that still have to use them....
    the whole plug/tube fitting requires some care, most new punctures are caused by crap left in between the carcass and the tube..
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

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  4. #4
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    by crap pedro means the mould release residue, bits of rubber left there from when it was molded etc, anything that is sticky or grippy will cause issues to really ensure there is no issue a little bit of telecom powder helps the tube not grip the Tyre and cause issues
    Also did they put a patch over the split so the tube wont get cause in the split?

    the lower the tyre pressure the more all the things listed above become more of an issue and helpful

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyonsy View Post
    by crap pedro means the mould release residue, bits of rubber left there from when it was molded etc, anything that is sticky or grippy will cause issues to really ensure there is no issue a little bit of telecom powder helps the tube not grip the Tyre and cause issues
    Also did they put a patch over the split so the tube wont get cause in the split?

    the lower the tyre pressure the more all the things listed above become more of an issue and helpful

    Yep, internal patch, and I watched as they carefully cleaned it all out before adding the tube. Nice to have people you can still trust to do the job proper like!! Can't remember if they put in the telecom (spell checker again?) or talcum powder.
    Cheers
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  6. #6
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    Assuming the small leak/hole was caused by a piece of spinifex etc and it's now patched on the inside what is the purpose of the tube ?

    Deano
    66 SIIA SWB .......73 SIII LWB diesel wgn
    86 RR 'classic'......99 Range Rover P38a
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    96 D1 300TDi.......99 D2 TD5 (current)
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  7. #7
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    FWIW I really dislike tubes.
    The tyre runs hotter, and in my experience I weld the tube to the tyre.
    Just check the hot running pressure of the tubed tyre and adjust to match the others.
    This should alleviate the tube welding issue.
    Maybe.

    Running to a hot pressure is a much more accurate way to manage tyres, it's how all motorsport tyres are managed from club racing all the way to F1.

    As an emergency I have no issue with tubes, but long term I really don't like them.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    Assuming the small leak/hole was caused by a piece of spinifex etc and it's now patched on the inside what is the purpose of the tube ?

    Deano
    I go to a long term, well respected local tyre place and was advised that because of the leak location, they were not allowed to plug it and kept as tubeless (presumably would be unsafe, and I've had similar advice previously from elsewhere).
    I assume the patch was effectively supplementary insurance to keep the inside clean and mitigate the possibility of further entry through the hole and puncturing the tube. Under the circumstances I would logically do the same.
    I didn't ask if the tyre was also plugged anyway, but good point and will now do so.


    Rick 130 - I too am not a fan of tubed tyres in this day and age, but at least this way I retain my well treaded 2nd spare, and can safely run it around town and even on the local freeway (on the rear axle to minimise steering issues of course).
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #9
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    As others have said the tyre patch will stop the tyre defect flexing and pinching the tube.

    Likewise I don't like tubed tyres, but agree with doing it to get max life out of the tyre.

    I'd only fit that tyre on the back axle as tubes when punctured will rapidly deflate and could make steering interesting if on the front.

    Cheers

    Steve

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rok_Dr View Post

    I'd only fit that tyre on the back axle as tubes when punctured will rapidly deflate and could make steering interesting if on the front.

    Cheers

    Steve
    I've had that happen at 110km/h on a signposted 85km/h corner on the front axle on a Defender.
    The deflation is so fast the tyre rolled clean off the rim.
    Interestingly the car pulled up straight, it wasn't too bad to man handle.

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