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Thread: Tuff terrain snorkel (raised air intake)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    130

    Tuff terrain snorkel (raised air intake)

    So I purchased a turf terrain snorkel to see if all the online criticism was correct. I have found that people jump on new/cheaper manufacturers prettt hard. A classic example is my MCC bullbar. For the record, Iím happy with it (at half the price of a ARB/TJM).
    Anyway, thought I would do a write up so people had a real-world idea of how it went.

    I bought it online from a local Brisbane supplier. Cost was approx $100. They also had safari snorkels for sale. I ordered Saturday night, it arrived Tuesday morning.
    The mouldings look good. No obvious seams or defects etc and feels quite robust. I havenít measured the thickness of the moulding. The kit came with everything I needed (parts wise). The template matched up to within a few millimeters of the studs (when I eye-balled it). I also made a copy of the template with butcher paper to double check- the cardboard template is quite firm and didnt allow me to follow the contours of the snorkel when checking for alignment.
    Out of interest, I thought the template was missing some drill hole cutouts so contacted the company by phone to get another template. I left a message in the morning and received a return call at lunch. The asked me to send in a photo and they could check it and would post another. It was actually me not looking properly and the holes had been punched in the template, but the paper hadnít pushed out. But itís good to know the company had a reasonable response time and were helpful.

    There are very little instructions with this product. It basically reads;
    -you will need these tools
    -make sure your template matches the snorkel
    -align the template to the car.
    -drill and cut the holes required
    -use a safe sealant
    Iím not sure if this is the same for all manufacturers, but thankfully there is plenty of info on the internet to back you up.


    The template aligned to the guard fine and holes were marked up and punched. I used a 68mm hole saw and the Dremel to make the large opening.
    I noticed that the tuff terrain snorkel only has 4 studs, in a line. On another members safari write up the safari snorkel has more studs and they are not all in a line- they have a ďhop-scotchĒ pattern ( 1 then 2 then 1). I would think this is a more robust/secure configuration. But it doesnít seem to wobble around.

    I initially tried to drill the stud holes the exact size of the studs, but you do need some wiggle room. Youíll see why shortly.
    I test fitted the snorkel with the studs and everything attached fine, but the intake pipe didnít match the hole going into the engine bay. There was a slight misalignment.

    I did the test fit again with the cast intake joiner and nothing lined up. The snorkel wouldnít mate against the car body, the stud holes wouldnít align. (Insert me panicking).
    When I had a closer look, the cast inlet mould was hitting on some bodywork inside the guard. So I had to hammer it in (only a small amount). You can see the area bottom left of the photo.


    I also enlarged the stud holes 2 more sizes on the stepped drillbit. This allowed more wiggle room and the snorkel mated to the fender nicely.
    The cast inlet still wasnít perfectly lined up with the inner guard cutout. But there was nothing I could do about that.


    I did a complete test fit to check how it mounted to the door pillar.
    It stuck out from the vehicle a few inches. Enough space to get me hand in. It needed a reasonable bit of pressure to press the snorkel against the pillar. Also, the mounting bracket is a flat piece of steel. This didnít align with the angle of the pillar and would have meant the door would contact the mounting bolts.

    An easy fix. Put the bracket in the vice and have it a little flex and all was well.
    .

    I drilled and pop riveted the bracket in place. They provided black rivets which was great.
    Whilst here, I drilled the hole to rivet the cast inlet piece in place

    The guard was polished, surfaces prepped for sealing.

    The rest of the job went fine. Sikaflex applied to the cast inlet piece and pushed into place with the pop rivet stuck in. But I didnít rivet it until the I had sikaflexed and inserted the snorkel into place. (Just in case something didnít align and I had to quickly pull it apart!)
    Once all the bolts were done up and the pillar mount bolted in place, I applied more sikaflex from inside the guard.
    I havenít got a photo of this but it was to cover the misaligned inner guard piece. It probably wasnít necessary, but didnít want there to be any gaps.
    I sealed up a few gaps in the air filter box (I left the duck bill unsealed-not sure if this is recommended).

    Overall Iím happy with the product. I havenít had any experience with these before, so have nothing to compare to. I was concerned about the misalignment of the inner guard/inlet. But donít think it was dramatically impact airflow. At higher speeds, the ram-head will hopefully counteract this. I could have cut some of the inner guard out to open up the airway. And I still could do this at a later date. But at 10pm on the street, it was a bit late for starting up the Dremel.

    The build quality of the snorkel appears good.

    I will be providing the supplier with some feed back about the issues I had. Maybe they can modify some things before they are sent to the customer.


    These are some shots of it in the daylight.
    From drivers side. No vision intrusions.



    .............
    Cheers, Josh

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    1,315
    One problem with the cheaper snorkels is at the intake part. There are 4 vertical slots, which you might think are to give movement, so that the intake will fit easier on the tube. You may need to extend these slots, as they are designed to allow rain that enters the intake to flow out. The idea is that rain will hit the back of the intake and drain away. If the water cannot drain away it will end up flowing into the pipe. This is where a working duckbill is handy.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2002
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Brisbane, QLD
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    130
    Good to know. Iíll check them out. Cheers.
    .............
    Cheers, Josh

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    2,691
    The shape looks very similar, if not the same, to my Safari snorkel. My biggest concern would be the quality of the plastic overtime, especially given that it's on the exterior of the vehicle and therefore heavily sun exposed. My Safari, while significantly over priced, has held up well for the 10 years now that it's been fitted - the plastic hasn't gone brittle and cracked or had any detrimental effect on it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Myrtle Bank SA
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    138
    Nice work. Looks like a neat job!
    Disco 2a 2003 Td5 SE Auto
    >10 years ago Disco 1 300Tdi Manual

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Churchill, Victoria
    Posts
    928
    I dont like the look of these snorkels one bit. How they travel along the guard the way they do.

    And the plastic worries me too. So susceptible to trees hitting them.

    I made my own snorkel out of steel and purchased the top from ebay. It was plastic like yours.

    Couple of trees later and the plastic top bit is smashed everywhere. Plans to make a steel top next

    I hope i am wrong and it lasts you many years. Still dont like the look of them.
    Ramblings of a crazy man aka Andrew.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,755
    Quote Originally Posted by DAMINK View Post
    ....

    And the plastic worries me too. So susceptible to trees hitting them.

    ....
    I was out with the bro up at Murrundindi some time back. Scouting camping places more than bashing hard, the trail was easy but I had a tree(branch) on my left that scraped heavily on the snorkel.
    Popped the top up a little and twisted it around, but not off, then as the branch cleared the snorkel it rubbed on the roofrack as I moved forward it snapped twisted itself upwards then scratched the read quarter panel.

    more damage was done to the metal than to the plastic parts!
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Churchill, Victoria
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I was out with the bro up at Murrundindi some time back. Scouting camping places more than bashing hard, the trail was easy but I had a tree(branch) on my left that scraped heavily on the snorkel.
    Popped the top up a little and twisted it around, but not off, then as the branch cleared the snorkel it rubbed on the roofrack as I moved forward it snapped twisted itself upwards then scratched the read quarter panel.

    more damage was done to the metal than to the plastic parts!
    Steel vs plastic? I know where my money is.

    I often have my side mirrors smacked into the windows by trees and branches. Snorkel takes a hammering! My plastic bit at the top did not last long at all. About 2 weeks from memory. The steel component is as strong as the day it was rolled.
    Ramblings of a crazy man aka Andrew.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Merbein
    Posts
    93
    My snorkel is identical, if you you look at the pictures on various sites they all have the same number "cast" in them, just sold under different names. I had the same problem with the inlet lining up, i even trimmed the cast down with a grinder for it to fit better but just doesn't quiet line up. The A pillar support on mine was fine though, fitted tight and the bracket was flush with the pillar, you might have needed a bit more fiddle factor with your holes to get it to line up better, the hole sizes are big compared to the stud sizes. My duckbill was deformed and didn't seal up normally, so just silicon it shut, others have fitted a blanking plug so you can't suck water in if submerged on a creek crossing. Don't forget to seal the guard to airbox joiner pipe.
    PeterN
    70' 164 Manual Volvo 227,000miles play car.
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Roma, South West Qld
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    35
    Quote Originally Posted by knuts2au View Post
    My snorkel is identical, if you you look at the pictures on various sites they all have the same number "cast" in them, just sold under different names. I had the same problem with the inlet lining up, i even trimmed the cast down with a grinder for it to fit better but just doesn't quiet line up. The A pillar support on mine was fine though, fitted tight and the bracket was flush with the pillar, you might have needed a bit more fiddle factor with your holes to get it to line up better, the hole sizes are big compared to the stud sizes. My duckbill was deformed and didn't seal up normally, so just silicon it shut, others have fitted a blanking plug so you can't suck water in if submerged on a creek crossing. Don't forget to seal the guard to airbox joiner pipe.
    My experience was about the same as above but i think i got mine cast inlet to line up in the end. It doesnít have to be perfect - its not like you are achieving laminar flow (and then thereís the air filter to pass through anyway). For the price - cant argue.

    One of my former vehicles (75 series Troopy) had a Safari snork which did crack but was able to be plastic welded.

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