Printable View
If you don't want to get so close to the fan and possibly risk breaking a blade, try directing a strong jet of water from a hose pipe at the blades, I haven't tried it myself, but someone on this forum reckoned it worked years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
I made the rolled newspater trick many times without any problems, it's not even necessary to remove the cowl, you can reach the blades from behind near the top of the engine
Right I’ll give it a try also. My TD5 is running hot while in traffic, so I’ve been wondering if mind is working also. Thanks guys.
Turn it off when hot if stops instantly its locked and working, grab it in your hand and get soemone to start it when hot should pull out of your hand.
Cheers
Another thing to check if viscous fan is working.
When the rad was replaced did they disconnect the thermostat and did they put it back correctly, if its put back arse about the engine will run hot.
Also check the two lower connections, the top one is blanked (and remains blanked, hose comes from behind engine from engine cooler) and the bottom one goes to the fuel cooler.
Not so long ago I sold a used TD5 to a customer in QLD, he put thermostat back in wrong, its kept running hot and rather than send me a pic of the thermostat in situ as requested he went down the path of saying the engine I supplied was the issue and not fit for purpose bluh bluh, so many emails back and forth. Eventually he found his mistake with little more than a passing "my mistake" note.
Any news Matt ??Quote:
Originally Posted by surfingooner
I have an idea!
Why not direct the flow of air from a hair dryer or heat gun onto the coil at the front of the fan.
You could do this with the fan off the car even. Note the difference in resistance from cool on and up over 94C when it should get stiffer. Even if on the car it would be much safer than doing it on a hot engine and radiator.
IMHO you can also tell a stuffed fan by looking at the hub and seeing if there is any goop around the seal. Of course if you are a committed engine hoser this will not be evident.
Regards Philip A
[emoji38][emoji38] You're dying for someone to try this, this is like the 6th time I've heard you say it with no one doing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
I love the idea, I'm gonna do it on a cold morning one day to test it for ya[emoji106]
Not a lot of change Pedro, been having some other fun and games (sadly). We went away a month back, and before leaving I changed the land Rover clip to a crocodile clip on the main coolant hose. Whilst on way to Albury, hose split and lost lot of coolant. Temp hit 106 degrees, and nanocom paid for itself there and then ! Managed to bodge and still had our camping trip, but took a while to get the bodge good enough to drive safely. We were at a place called Wee Jasper, beautiful, but 65 kms from nearest town (Yass).Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
Anyway, got home and even though I fixed the leak, bought a new hose, and now realise that I have warped the exhaust manifold again as a consequence. Sorry I know going totally off-track here. Xmas project, get bigger bolts in this time and get a pro to do get the old broken studs out (which includes a broken off drill bit).
Also have a problem where the car is stuttering when accelerating in 4th, no more 'whoosh, but now a car fighting to accelerate, I will start a new post for that now. So watching temps has been a hobby of mine during past couple of months, but seems to be ok again at the moment.
It sounds like the main problem is a failing head gasket. The split hose is probably due to a pressurising cooling system not so much changing the clip.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfingooner
Nick