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		AFAIR , you have to drop the LH side of the tank so that the filler stub clears the chassis. The green pipe has a join just after the 90 degree turn on the RH side.
If you have springs in the back make sure that the unused  height sensor wires are zip tied to the pipe. This rubbed through my green pipe on the GRR , and to add insult, this was done by the mechanic who did the recall in 2004 or thereabouts.
I paid a very good young bloke in Kununurra  to do mine and he wrapped it in foam tape. I replaced the entire 5 ? in the manifold.
Regards Philip A
	 
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		Well I've had a couple of practice runs putting the tube in position. Now i just have to wait for the part to arrive.
	 
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		ALL FINISHED!!!
	
	
		Attachment 144578
The old and the new. There is spiral wrap under the black plastic film. I'm hoping that I do not have to change this again. 
Attachment 144579
 A close up. The hole is minute. A big thank you to Woko, for the advice, dropping the front of the tank is a winner. Also a big thank you to Mario and Heather who got the part here over night. 
No bleeding was required. I guess that the amount of air in that pipe is negligible. I'll find out on a run to the shops in a few minutes.
	 
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		Is the normal thinking to replace the green line only manufactured by ???. Edit: actually it looks like the green line is OE or OEM YNI500030K $87.42
or replace all 4 lines with genuine/OEM? WJP108110 $256.38
	 
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		Well this is interesting. 
First I checked that a line hadn't popped off the pump. Lifted the carpet and cover, all lines looked good. 
To get to the other end I dropped out the middle and rear exhaust sections and was able to gain access that way. 
I'm not dropping the fuel tank, its a 2 section LRA fuel tank and will me a major hassell.
Looks like the Green Line is the problem and interestingly never gave a problem until 270,000km.
Interestingly though, the loom that branches off to the pump and goes over the top of this line wasn't the problem. I don't think the loom even touched the line. 
But at the other 90 degree bend at the chassis end of the line, where the loom goes over the top of the line is where the loom had chaffed through. 
Bohica, I've just illustrated on your drawing where the loom is in relation to the line, highlighted where yours wore through and where mine wore through.
I'll only replace the green line as I dont think the others get touched and it's a nightmare under there.
	 
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		Slunnie, That’s exactly where my fuel line wore through last year as well.
Cheers
Steve
	 
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		Slunnie, you've done well. I burst that pipe 3 times on my old D2a, all replaced under warranty (plus the recall). After the last one I slit some heater hose and wrapped the green pipe and it didn't do it again.
	 
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		Your wear point is the most common one.
My wear point was near the turn and I found an unattached  wiring loom sitting on it presumably for height sensors.
Regards PhilipA
	 
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		The green line in ours went the other day with just over 150khttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...db0cbef9c9.jpg on the clock. Thanks MR for the quick repair job as was beyond my level of confidence.
The break/leak was about an inch away from the pump and diesel was filling the recessed area eventually sloshing out over the top of the tank.
Photo shows where the leak was as it seemed different to the others shown here.
Cheers
Peter