Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: only partially (un)blocked!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,203
    Total Downloaded
    0

    only partially (un)blocked!

    I have a D2 V8 project car, I got a couple of years back.
    It's in super condition(hence why I want to get it back on the road) low(192K) k's, almost all the fruit(not a HSE, but not far off) model range .. etc.
    Colour is a bit sedate, but that's low down on the list of priorities for me.
    Car drives nicely, other than the overheating issue a previous owner had, and some REAL GENUIS!! .. had ideas on how to fix it.

    First thing I checked was to flush cooling system, see what came out. basically all clear fresh looking coolant, so was flushed and reflushed .. etc.

    Car was 'soak tested' had it in driveway idling for about 90mins idled at about 83-85°C uninterrupted.
    Took it for a spin around the block(short block, maybe 1min tops, less than 1klm) .. nanocom and OBD gauges both recorded over 120°C in quick time.

    SO first thing I could easily check on were waterpump/viscous/thermostat.
    WOW!
    The previous genius, thought a good fix would be to locktite the viscous hub to the waterpump, so of course I broke a metal bar I made to hold the hub, AND bent my fan spanner trying to get the viscous off.
    So I had to chop the fan off to get the waterpump bolts to get waterpump off. So waterpump and viscous had to come off as a single unit.

    First thing I noted the genius modded was a restrictor inside the waterpump inlet:

    20170611_103233_Burst01_sml.jpg
    little red top hat restrictor on pump inlet.
    Removing the thermostat revealed it was bashed up internally, so it was a constant flow, but parts still rattling inside, and a bit of dowel(sawn broom handle) was jammed into the top outlet(rad bypass port). stuck hard immovable.

    So their idea of cooler running motor was to restrict the flow of coolant as much as possible.
    The dowel in the thermostat top port kind'a makes a little sense, in that coolant doesn't bypass the radiator, but I thought that it needed even just a small amount of flow.
    Maybe the restrictor should have been placed in that thermostat top port only?

    Car has been sitting for a couple of years, due to time and $ restrictions, and I think I'd resigned myself to a possible headgasket or worse a cracked liner/block type issue.
    Not really a biggie, as I got a cheap spare parts car, that both brother and I use parts off.
    Other issue is no real easy place to work on it. eg. if I need to pull motor out, my work area isn't an easy one to work on(uneven gravel, no cover, etc).

    So yesterday was a good day to have another peek at the D2 again, and I tested it's ability to hold pressure in the cooling system, gave it a small crank with it already pressurised, cooling system hold 15psi overnight, and doesn't vary with cranking or running the engine.
    So I'm confident there is no problem with HG or cracked block or anything.
    So rad came out, and opened up.
    to call it blocked is an understatement.
    20181021_190513_HDR_sml.jpg
    no idea what the goop is, has the consistency of wet cotton.
    20181021_190518_HDR_sml.jpg
    there are small beads of it in all but the top two tubes
    20181021_190526_HDR_sml.jpg
    I haven't yet taken the other side tank off yet, as I thought there was no need .. I reckon I know what's causing it's overheating!

    The thought to have it cleaned was discarded as an option.
    New rad ordered now, I'm keeping the side tanks as they're in good nik, just in case I ever have issues in the future with the rad(eg. broken lugs, or broken bleed hose nipple or whatever)
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Gawd re the mods. Some people shouldn't be let near a car.

    My P38A radiator when I got it was also blocked.

    p38aradtopcopy9ms.jpg
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Brisbane West
    Posts
    27,823
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Arthur, could that gunk be the result of mixing incompatible coolants?
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    wimmera
    Posts
    502
    Total Downloaded
    0
    looks like mixing of coolants or oil has got in.

    and looks like someone had enough of an idea to be dangerous

    the restrict or in the water pump should of been put in the top hose

    and i am not a real of the lr thermostat id convert it to an inline one in the top hose with a 80 deg or colder stat

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    On The Road
    Posts
    29,829
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Both cooling "systems" work,, its just differing philosophies,,

    all these pics of blocked rads is making me worry...
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,203
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Arthur, could that gunk be the result of mixing incompatible coolants?
    No idea of the history of the car. I've had it for a while, but it's been off the road for a bit longer.
    Does have some service history very close to it's current klm, so I assume it was properly serviced for 99% of it's life.
    Last 30K klms are missing, so it's anyone's guess what had been done to it in two services in that time.
    Can't say what coolant, or what type was in it .... only that it was clean and green(like typical glycol stuff). As if someone had recently changed it.

    Quote Originally Posted by lyonsy View Post
    looks like mixing of coolants or oil has got in.

    .....
    Not oily(or oil/water mix).
    More like an expanding foam like stuff.
    I assume they thought it was a head gasket and used some expanding goop to block internally.

    Consistency is almost ricotta cheese like, the great lump will come away in one piece, is soft(so rad could be rodded if required) ... but the stuff will fall to pieces when handled too.

    So I'm quite sure it's some kind of additive, mistakenly used to fix a problem that doesn't exist(I think).
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,203
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Update:

    new radiator installed, 78°C thermostat installed, engine flushed again(with garden hose).

    All back together again, added coolant flush treatment for now, will run this for a while to be sure engine if flushed, but so far looks fine.

    had the V8 idling in my driveway for an hour, both nanocom and OBDII(via Torque app) both had 90°C at idle, never went above, but did come down to 87-88 with a bit of fast idling.
    Viscous works fine. will need a new fan tho, as the one I used from the part car has some cracks in it.

    Did a few laps around the block, coolant temps came down to mid 80's(83-85).

    Starts and idles sort of OK, new plugs this morning, but cold start sees very low RPM idling(still).
    Once some warmth in the engine tho, it runs and idles fine.

    What should I be looking at to get cold idle normal.
    ATM, cold idle seems to be about 500RPM or so, alternator light on(low charging) at these revs. Motor a bit hesitant with a bit of throttle at this point, with smooth throttle application, it can be made to rev up smoothly tho.
    MAF has been cleaned, no idea on what specs I'd be watching for. Do have a nanocom to help too.

    Once warm, car drives very nice, and even when cold(ie 30 secs from start) with some revs up it seems OK, it's only the 500-1000RPM range when stone cold that's a bit rough.

    Any advice appreciated.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!