It's quite straight forward. The nanocom will tell you what to do when you're in the right section for it... but read up on it first so you know what you're in for.Quote:
Originally Posted by chilla
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It's quite straight forward. The nanocom will tell you what to do when you're in the right section for it... but read up on it first so you know what you're in for.Quote:
Originally Posted by chilla
Ok thanks.
The workshop said part of the tune is winding up the boost to about 18psi. Which is still reliable apparently.
Would the most common method of this be winding the thread of the shaft that goes into the waste gate?
Also, can you do this, floor it and watch live on a nanocom to see if 18psi is achieved, or would you have to download file and take a look on the software?
Thanks!
Yes just shorten the wastegate rod to increase boost and yes you can watch the live data on nanocom while giving it the boot but much easier to record the data and review later.Quote:
Originally Posted by chilla
Paul.
as per harro , but you can go to 19 psi ( actually 20 but you need to allow for cold days which could make it overboost without boost box or wide range map sensor)Quote:
Originally Posted by chilla
you can peruse this to give you an idea what's involved
https://nanocom-diagnostics.com/down...ocom-evolution
Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
Thanks Discorevy and Harro. Got home from work today, shortened the wastegate rod about 3 or 4 full revolutions and according to nanocom, achieved max boost of 1.25 bar, which google tells me is 18.12PSI. However the boost doesn't hit the 1.25bar max every time I keep it floored and when it does, after the initial peak of 1.25bar, it decreases to around 1.16 bar and then floats between 1.16 and 1.25, all while throttle is pinned and speed increasing.
Is it normal to see under full throttle, max boost or near to max boost achieved, then a roll off, and then it hovering around but not hitting max boost while it is still under full throttle?
Or is it more normal to see max boost achieved and and boost held constant at max while under full throttle?
Hope that makes sense. Going to download the map file after I get the kids to bed and send off to Alive Tuning.
Cheers guys.
I dont' think so.Quote:
Originally Posted by chilla
forewarning tho: I'm no Td5 (or ay engine type!) expert ..
But, from experience with the brothers TD5, boost should stay relatively stable on full pedal.
That is, if you see 1.25Bar, then it should remain close to that number as the engine revs increase.
Note I never rev engines needlessly, and I maintained a self imposed 4K RPM limit on most engines.
Anyhow, brothers had the boost on, boost of variance, and with help from here, determined that the WGM(waste gate modulator) was acting up.
There's a bypass trick, which lowers overall boost pressure(mainly power) as the ECU does this default fuelling mode.
But with the WGM bypass, it was determined that the WGM was out of order, new WGM fitted, and boost happily and steadily maintained 1.4(something) kPa.
TD5 pulls like a V8 now .... actually I have a V8 and that last superlative is doing the TD5 a disservice!
with 1.5K RPM up, the TD5 pulls much harder for longer than a std V8.
Brother's TD5 came with a TRS stamped ECU too tho(ie. already remapped).
Where the V8 excels is off idle up to about 2K rpm, where it shoots way ahead of the TD5.
BUT! Bros TD5 came with no mufflers, and it's way too gruff for a refined vehicle like a D2.
I told him to get a rear resonator fitted(like DazzaTD5 did), but he had a central muffler of some kind fitted. Still too droney(even compared to the rough as guts 300 Tdi).
So be warned about the exhaust system .. get a remap, make sure you have an EGT gauge to keep a check on heat build up.
If they remain high, do a intercooler mod. If that still doesn't help, then a freer exhaust will .. and try to maintain a balance between power refinement cost .. etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilla
Leave the wastegate rod where it is for now , when you delete the centre muffler you will see an improvement
What happens is the turbo initially spools up to your 1.25 bar then slows somewhat as the back pressure builds ( the boost controller let's this happen to a degree as well )
The rear resonator is fine to leave in place as, (aside from being straight through) by the time the exhaust gasses get to the rear they have cooled enough ( and condensed ) for it to be a minimal restriction.
When you get the remap you'll see a further rise in the boost ( more bang =turbo driven harder )
Worth noting the flex joint on the eu3 engine ( with cat from factory ) has an internal diameter of only 42mm
which I normally replace with a quality full size flex as a part of the tune.
the reason for the restriction from factory was for velocity which on the standard tune sort of works
One thing that shouldn't be neglected is your transmission, not least the torque converter, which will become the weak link after tuning ( if not serviced recently do that as well ) replace the fluid with something like penrite atf/fs or equivalent
You need egt / boost gauge .
My own ( ahem ) r and d td5 has ....so far
Straight through to rear resonator ... The exhaust has started to become a restriction on mine because
Heavy custom mapping
Hybrid turbo running 26 psi
Full size manual UK spec intercooler ( auto cooler moved to front )
Water / methanol injection
Manual boost controller
Heavy duty low stall converter
Some ( not enough ) stronger bits in the auto
It's fun and still as efficient fuel consumption wise. ( pretty much bang on 10 l / 100 k on highway 110 -120 kph)
When I get the time...haha, I have an engine here for myself that will get some internal improvements.
I have an auto, and with the cat and mid-muffler removed, I found the drone too much, fitted a hot dog where he mid-m was and it is perfect now. IMHO. Matt.Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
I'm not sure what it is about D2's Matt,, they have "great" insulation/sound deadening in the floor,, ( just wait till you have to lift a wet rear floor carpet out[bighmmm])
but both engine types DRONE without a centre muffler,,,
maybe its the big box shape?
Yeah the roof and sides have very little in sound absorption and Deadening, in fact the only bit i have found is in the left rear 1/4 there is a bit about 200mmx200mm so there is some improvements that can be made