Thread: Td5 Auto Running Poorly

I am reading that your using engine oil. A tune / remap would not cause you to use oil. A tune effects fuel input and other parameters but not oil consumption. If its not leaking out then you have an engine problem. Low compression or worn rings. Before you throw money away , you need to do a wet and dry compression test and see whats happening in your engine. The transfer lever determines whether its in high range or low range . As for the tranfer case switch reading low, My experience is if read by my NANOCOM this happens and is not a real issue. my understanding is that if the switch is wired to the low side you get better throttle response even in high range. If its screaming its head off, was the transfer case out of a discovery or a defender is a different ratio and will cause high revs. I had bad injector seals, it caused hard starting, another symptom of injectors seals is the engine oil level increases as diesel leaks into the sump. Always happy to be shot down Baz

Do you have a boost/ egt gauge? , max readings?
As above if you've used that much oil and it hasn't leaked you're probably up for re-ring , or engine ( the only way if this is the case on a td5 below 500 000 k is neglect at some point in its ownership, dusted , or prolonged no oil change)
You should have seen a large smokescreen behind you using that much oil, a turbo failure will also cause this
With the engine idling, unscrew the oil cap to check blow by ( there shouldn't be much if any on a decent 2-350 000 k engine) this will be good enough for now to check the state of your compression rings.
A couple of scan tools show low range as high and vice versa , nothing to worry about.
Check the transmission oil level with engine running as there could be a problem there or torque converter
Repair the leak at the cooler ( it will be either the coupling or cracked through where the aluminium pipe enters the cooler body.)
Then do a stall test, let us know the results

waste gate modulator bypassed, If you have bypassed this and give it a boot full The ecu will reduce fuel and it will run like a goat ( i no as I did it) Buy a new modulator if yours is stuffed if not reconnect it and give it a run.

Thanks for the input, guys.
I don't have boost or egt gauges. Unfortunately it'll be a week until I can look into it further but will let you know any findings.

Re the map using oil, I wasn't referring to the new remapped ECU, but the fuel map and gearing whilst in low range (but actually in high - if that makes sense).
After the shop said they rewired the x-fer hi/lo switch to permanently on high, I haven't noticed any more oil consumption and the smoke has got better. I've done several hundred km since then.
The oil leak out of the rocker cover has got noticeably worse over the last few months but I wouldn't imagine I could lose so much oil from there?
The x-fer case is 1.211. Re the throttle response, don't quote me on this, but I have read that if the switch is wired to low you would get 'worse' throttle response as it uses roughly 70% of the range. This is in some way evident in my issue, I get no response for the first 1/3 of the throttle.
I never noticed a huge plume of smoke out the back window. It was mainly on heavy throttle and wasn't terribly offensive, but noticeable as it never used to smoke.
The waste gate modulator has always been bypassed in my ownership (presuming the old one was buggered) and was recommended by Alive too. I could reinstate it to check though (if I can remember how).
I did the oil cap blow-by test several weeks ago and didn't notice anything untoward.
The truck has done roughly 200,000km and last owner was fastidious.

Cheers.

Check your turbo has not done a front seal.
When was the last time the PCV breather (Oil Depression Control Valve ) was changed if its stuck open all the time it will suck oil through the intake.
What oil did you use when it burnt it all?
When you say it smoked what colour was the smoke? Black/White/Blue
Has the throttle position sensor been checked to make sure it does not have a dead spot and the voltages are right?
have you checked if the muffler has failed or collapsed.
does it have an exhaust leak at the head or turbo.
Have you checked the adjustment of the injectors and that the cam shaft has not eaten a lobe
have you changed the fuel filter?

do you have a nano com or equivalent? unfortunately you really need one on these things, (i brought the day i brought my d2a)

I'd understand if you were driving around the highways in true physical low range that the engine would be screaming and you would probably use a lot of engine oil , but the mapping alone can't cause that.
You really need to know what your boost and egt's are ( I'm surprised alive didn't mention this )
anyhow, good that it's miraculously stopped using oil.
How long ago was the auto rebuilt ? ( it might need new oil and filter but check level first )
Has the head ever been off ?

Hi folks. Bringing this one back from the dead as I cannot stand driving my auto 10p Td5 any longer. All the local LR workshops just tell me it's normal for a Td5 or it's running fine and Autologic isn't showing any faults. I would expect more from a Stage 2 tune, in fact I would expect more from a factory Td5.

Basically it's still gutless, revs like mad and and gets nowhere. Since my last post about 8 months ago I have skimmed and replaced exhaust manifold, new injector loom, new injector seals & washers, new silicone hoses, cleaned and pressure checked intercooler, service with new filters all round (including transmission), new AAP, Depression Control Valve, new waste gate modulator (now connected).

I have finally got myself a Nanocom. Below are readings from a quick drive today including some open road but no hills. Temperature was about 15°C today and I am close to sea level. Can anyone can spot any anomalies?
Tomorrow I will take readings while towing as this is when it feels most underpowered and laboured.

Something else I should mention, Cruise Control has never worked in my ownership. Also, if I start the engine and select the sport mode button the M light comes on (not S) and acceleration/response is limited until it hits a certain speed or revs, then the S light comes on performance is "normal".

Originally Posted by smOke

Hi folks. Bringing this one back from the dead as I cannot stand driving my auto 10p Td5 any longer. All the local LR workshops just tell me it's normal for a Td5 or it's running fine and Autologic isn't showing any faults. I would expect more from a Stage 2 tune.

Basically it's still gutless, revs like mad and and gets nowhere. Since my last post about 8 months ago I have skimmed and replaced exhaust manifold, new injector loom, new injector seals & washers, new silicone hoses, cleaned and pressure checked intercooler, service with new filters all round, new AAP, new waste gate modulator (now connected).

I have finally got myself a Nanocom. Below are readings from a quick drive today including some open road but no hills. Temperature was about 15°C today and I am close to sea level. Can anyone can spot any anomalies?
Tomorrow I will take readings while towing as this is when it feels most underpowered and laboured.

Just a couple of queries, how did the shop wire the transfer case switch? And why? I couldn't see it on a quick skim through.

And have you set the nanocom speed adjustment?
Are you sure the car is locking up in top gear?