Thread: D2a brake light issues

Have you cleared the previous faults? if you log a fault too many times, then perhaps this may be the cause. Can't recall if/ when this occurs and what lights come on (brake is definitely 1 that I recall) so some research required.
Btw: have you checked the shuttle valve values with a multimeter to see if its the switch, connector etc.

Yes, cleared all the faults.

To add to the confusion. Just checked it again just now.
No faults. All lights off after startup, then I drove forward while turning and got TC activation and light, and also the ABS light.
TC light when off and the TC noise stopped after straightening up, but ABS light remains.

I've given the wheel sensor plug that I'd disconnected a good wriggle just in case. No change.

Think I'm going to have to pull the wheels and disks off again and check the sensors for cleanliness etc.

Steve

With the original fault , if the svs is working it is probably needing the bypass modification to fix the dry solder in the modulator.
With the new fault it's either going to be the connection ( usually rectified by soldering) or quite possibly the sensor head itself, they become brittle with age and if you don't put the 0 ring back on the sensor before refitting can warp when tightened
Check voltages in live values with nanocom , one of the ones you removed will probably show a lower voltage than the others

OK - fingers crossed - it might be fixed.
I drove it back into the shed and went to check the sensor values but checked the faults first. This time it had thrown a left front wheel sensor low output fault. Great - somewhere to start.

Removed the LHF sensor, cleaned it and straightened the mounting tab as it had become a bit dished around the hole. Refitted everything and had a quick drive around the paddock - no more lights or TC activation
Checked the Nanocom again, no faults, all sensor voltages at 2.18v

I'm sure I haven't seen the last of the mexicans, but will deal with those in due course.

Thanks for the assistance.

Steve

Ah well. Good while it lasted which was about 1km - until I braked at the first intersection.
ABS + TC + Brake warning and chimes

LHF wheel sensor low output again.
If I run the nanacom and monitor sensor voltages while I make it happen again, the Nanocom loses comms and throws an error. Would that be normal behavior?

Steve

Normal behavior for nanocom after around 15 kph to lose comms
What you can do is turn the screen round to face you on the passengers side then, looking at abs voltages, wriggle the connector , to see if it's that , if so , solder it , but me thinks it will need a new sensor.
Get the long lead version, and take it back to the slabs unit

Edit: as an addendum in case this post is seen by U.S. residents…...........stop the vehicle first and pop the bonnet / hood before doing this test

Thanks. What's the current recommendation on Brand for replacement sensors?

Steve

I use wabco , the long lead version is exxy , but I have in the past used the short lead version , cut the connectors and soldered, with no problems.
There are a few cheaper options , but maybe others that have used them will have a better idea if any good