4WDs aren't meant to be sports cars, so larger wheels are a bad idea, I think. Lifting and larger means more lean and slower acceleration.
As much as I love LRA sometimes their full of **** a few occasions I've asked a question and get "nah it won't work" "nah it can't be repaired" "nah it can't be done" blah blah not saying they are trying to squeeze more business out of me because they never have, it's just something I've noticed with them.
Cheers Jim
4WDs aren't meant to be sports cars, so larger wheels are a bad idea, I think. Lifting and larger means more lean and slower acceleration.
what you do is take the badges and decals off, anything that says dicovery or landrover ect. then you purchase a car with good handling, ie a bmw m5 or something then glue the badges on it
To be honest mine had shagged suspension when i bought it and put dobison coils and bilstein shocks in it and its night and day, handles amazingly for a 4wd, still need to do some bushes and it will be like a new car
if yours is a handling bad i reckon it may need a bit of love as with ace ect they are great
2000 Discovery 2 td5 Auto (Sandy)
2" dobinsons springs and bilstein shock,
Arb steel winch bar, homemade rear drawers,
steel rear bar
7" Led spotties, Roo systems awning, 3 cross bar roof racks
265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W
Even without ACE the things steer well in stock form.
The dampers have bugger all low speed bump and rebound for ride compliance but it works.
One day I plan on doing a passive ACE system (yes, I know that's an oxymoron) just to try out a few ideas.
Love it guys.
Sorry I've been a little tardy in the replies.
I should have tightened up the parameters I ask about. Best handling for a 2inch lifted weekend tourer style. Mine wanders a little more than it should I think. I bought it with Tough dog suspesion already installed. SLS is a bonus however. It is driven most days and I love taking it on camping trips eith large amounts of highway kms. It is far more comfortable than my mates wrangler with heaps more room so I'm happy either way.
Cheers,
Alex
2003 D2a td5 auto (small mods)
1999 SAAB 9-3 Viggen (small mods - torque - broken)
1970 Alfa Romeo GT Junior (distant project)
Wandering can be tyres.
Some tram line worse than others, it just depends on the brand and construction.
if the tyres are ok , it's probably time to do the ball joints as a 2 inch lift on its own is very unlikely to make it wander and worn lower ball joints will definitely let it wander.
so centre of hub to guard with 2" lift should be around 550mm for front
533 mm for rear (coils) 10mm less for sls
those heights would be with no extras , so obviously with steel bull bar etc it should be lower especially if springs have sagged a bit
Never used tough dog stuff on a Landy so not sure if it's any good but I see it on plenty toyonissa****i's
check the usual suspects as well ( track rod ends , drag link , panhard rod , steering box freeplay, etc.)
wheel alignment should be 0-2 mm toe out
I am Not a fan of lifting a 4WD as it changes the handling On road for the worse as far as I am concerned.
The D2 in stock form will go just about anywhere as it is But if you want to improve the handling get some Good tyres fitted and a set of DBA heavy duty rotors and pads fitted.
I have just completed a 10,000k trip in my stock height D2a and it handled beautifully and that was towing a 1.5t boat on all sorts of roads and tracks.
I fitted a set of Micky Thomson ATZ p3"s to the truck and upgraded the brakes and that made a huge difference in the handling.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
Don't underestimate the value of a good wheel alignment either - 0-2mm toe OUT (definitely not toe IN which is what they'll likely try to do). Significantly improves the corners on the highway from my testing and experience. Tyre shops always tell me that I'll get bad tyre wear from it but so far I'm on track to more likely replace my BF Goodrich due to old age because they haven't worn down in the time!
Handling on what though? If corners on a tarmac race track then I'd be putting my money on the 18"s over the factory 16"s give than they 0.5" wider with 255 wide tyres rather than 235, I believe that they're offset might also be slightly different pushing them outwards a bit more (hence why factory vehicles fitted with them were also fitted with the plastic flares on the wheel arches to cover them). Obviously tyre choice comes into it too.
Handling Offroad and rougher roads - 16". At the end of the day it's a 4WD so 16" is much more appropriate.
Currently have 16's running 245/75. Slightly taller which of course doesn't help on road handling however that extra bit of clearance makes me feel better on the trails. They also look tougher . I run Pirelli Scorpions atm but will probably switch to Hankook Dynapro AT's next time due to reviews and I'm pretty sure Pirelli have stopped making this size AT. Both are not overly aggressive as far as AT's go which is nice on road especially in wet conditions. Most would think it's always wet in Tassie but unless you are on the West coast that's not really the case. Unless you are in the depths of winter or searching for it mud really isn't an issue.
Cheers
Cheers,
Alex
2003 D2a td5 auto (small mods)
1999 SAAB 9-3 Viggen (small mods - torque - broken)
1970 Alfa Romeo GT Junior (distant project)
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