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Yes that is a possibility. I had it on a ctek 10A charger in rejuvenate mode all night the night before. Charger indicated it had completed full cycle (and I topped up the cells before charging). On alternator with engine running just now shows 13.99v). Battery close to end of warranty period so I’ll take it back down to the supplier for a load test and warranty claim if needed [wink11]
Corroded or dirty contacts allowing a small current flow. Operating the contacts a few times tends to clean them.Quote:
Originally Posted by acgmarketing
I'm with v8lan sounds like a battery problem if possible can you get a new battery and try the higher the cca the better
Update — I kept the battery on ctek rejuvenate charger for 2 days before driving again and bought new 750CCA battery too. Used old battery for 20 min drive and error etc happened again toward end of drive. Swapped to new battery and drove home no issues.
Next day (yesterday) drove again about 20 min with new battery - no issues. Drove home - no issues. Nanocom was though showing sub 14v (13.12 - 13.9) during last drive.
Today took son for 20 min driving lesson - all good until just as he touched key to turn off - error back. However this time hazard lights flashed and kept flashing when key out but we could restart and drive (didn’t choose to go far). Disconnected battery, reconnected and 4 hours later drove home with no issues.
So - new battery and fewer issues but not solved yet ... ideas?
Use a voltmeter and measure voltage on the battery while cranking, 750CCA is too weak for a Td5 anyway but if the voltage drops below 10.5V while cranking you might need to change the starter motor cos it has an internal issue which disturbs the crank signal and creates too high drain, also find somebody with an oscilloscope to verify the alternator cos it's the only 100% certain way to rule it out as if even only one diode(out of the 8 diode pack) is shot you'll get DC voltage on a voltmeter but the battery might suffer and not be charged well, see this Testing an Alternator With an Oscilloscope | Simply Smarter Circuitry Blog
?ignition switch or remote/key issue possibly? My remote lock button failed causing flashing lights and alarm no start issues.
Just thinking......
The battery terminals on a D2 are some apprentices' wet dream. Check to see if they actually tighten onto the battery post and if not replace them. While you are about it check the earth attachments to the body and engine.
In Oz 750CCA is plenty as we rarely go below zero. I have always run 750CCA Optimas with never a starting problem.
Maybe you ignition switch is worn out.
Regards Philip A
Good ideas all, thanks for the ones so far I’ll check them out and report back. Re 750CCA it’s not been an issue for me thus far in about 13 years of owning this car but happy to hear thoughts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by acgmarketing
In one of his posts Fery mused on a visit or move (can't recall which) to AU. As one of our most welcome participating gurus, EU's lost would be very much our gain.
There could also be a fault in your central locking/alarm system. Check all of your fuses to be sur there's no problem there.
Something is teasing your Engine Immobiliser.