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That's how brothers broke.Quote:
Originally Posted by laslo71
If it breaks when you try to nip it up, it's easy to blame yourself for the stuff up.
But when it breaks whilst trying to undo it .. you know it's time to re invent the wheel all over again, and look for a less dodgy solution! :p
Has anyone used the allisport silicon hoses? I don’t know about their radiator hoses, but I know they make good stuff. About the same price as other silicon hoses I’ve seen.
Someone else would make the hose, and just check they use a fluorosilicone or fluorocarbon liner.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
If it's plain silicon the OAT coolant will soften the hose and go straight through it.
GotchaQuote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Interestingly, Allisport has a lifetime warranty. I’ll do that. Should I still use spring clamps with silicon hoses?
Discovery Td5 Coolant Top Hose Blue - AlliSport
Question tho: I’ve got a 2000 D2 with a 15P motor instead of the standard 10P. Does that change the hose configuration?
Allisport is similar to the Samco type(design) hose for TD5. Integrated bleeder .. although it does appear to be metal, not plastic at least.
My bro got a kit like this one off ebay.
No recommendation on the seller, link just used as the example that this is what he got.
Quality seemed very good, as good as any others I've seen.
The metal t junctions were of good quality. Not supreme quality(the welding), but from what was obvious, good quality.
Been on for a bit over a year, no issues. He had coolant leak issues(not the hoses, waterpump and fuel cooler o-ring, don't think he had any overheating issues tho) Silicon hoses held up perfectly.
When we sorted the leaks, we ended up installing the rest of the hoses he didn't fit at the time.
Apart from the chance of delaminating at the molded joints, the other issue I see as a negative for the fully molded type hoses is that, if the possibility came about where one of the smaller offshoot hoses got damaged(eg. underside rocks hit and holed the 15mm diameter hose, you almsot have to replace the entire hose all over again, or else cobble up a cut and shut alternative.
With the already modded metal t junctions, and in the case of the Td5, the separated bottom section of hose(in the ebay linked type), it's a matter of finding a much cheaper small section of hose as replacement.
Can't remember the exact size, but any standard straight run hose of appropriate size would do.
Imagine the PITA if a scenario like that happened on a long weekend out in some remote location where the availability of weird octopus type hoses are few and far between!
Clamps are really a matter of taste. My view is that they are just painful to fit/remove if ever needed too. Needing ANOTHER specialist tool to fit means that you just add more junk to your toolbox(that you otherwise don't need).
They offer zero advantage.
Had to do my sisters RAV 4 a couple of weeks back, and all three of us agreed that those spring clamps had to go .. monumentally painful access to remove refit. non turbo induction issue.
My point of view comes from the observation that I've never ever seen spring type clamps used in forced induction hose clamping applications .. only ever screw clamps.
If the spring clamps had longer pinch points and could be removed by hand .. I'd see the advantage.
RAV had about 3 smaller spring clamps)(approx 15mm dia) easily removable by hand as they had longer grip tabs ... so an argument could be made for spring clamps if they had an advantage. But the PITA to reach clamps(on the throttle body) had very little to zero access and much scraping of hands was required to get top them. In the end very long, long nose pliers were bought to get to them.
In the end tho, I doubt that the clamps matter too much. If you can't be bothered to spend the $s, I'm sure it won't be any bother nor affect the job.
Some engine bay designs necessitate the removal of hoses to access some other part that needs replacing. I just prefer a quick undo with a socket(I use my 1/4" drive set) than to faff about remembering where the special tool was misplaced.
Update: New hoses came today. I’ll post the results after I’ve fitted them. Still bummed that I couldn’t get blue to match the intercooler hoses tho!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...faad1fc1b5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ef732f431b.jpg
Just replaced all of my hoses as the top hose split on the way home from Victoria. See attached photo.
Fitted genuine as I figure the old ones have lasted 15 years.
Paint the blue ones black?Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
Hmm that looks nice! Is the thread of the bleed nut the same as the original? If its different then fitting the Engine Saver low coolant sensor could be problematic.
Cheers
Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
That's what bro got, but as a kit with lots of upper and lower hoses.
Nope. Something M6(ish) maybe.. never measured and I'm hopeless at estimating threads/sizes .. but about M6-ish from the looks of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rok_Dr
As for the blue. If you really want it, get some amalgamating tape in blue.
Basically similar stuff to the outside of the hoses anyhow.
But I'm thinking black may be better if only for the purpose of quick/easy coolant leak ID. I assume your coolant is pink/red or maybe green? Maybe even blue.
Pink red will contrast a lot better against a darker background, if green .. probably no difference. But if blue coolant is used, then blue hoses could be the ones to avoid. Sometimes just a quick visual can make all the difference.
brother got blue, and has blue turbo hoses .. now you can't tell what goes to where. Blue hoses tangled up all over each other! [tonguewink]
I also have blue turbo hoses on my Tdi .. so naturally I went for white coolant hoses! [biggrin]
And recently, green (silicon again) for the crankcase vent thingy/cyclone hoses. I had a leak from the very end of the return hose, and not enough length to cut it down. So silicon it was for them too!