Looks good.
Basically what LR should have done from day one!(like the did V8, even tho the T junction is only plastic).
Did I fit up easy? no trimming needed on hose/s?
Top hose is done. The rest can wait until another day.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Looks good.
Basically what LR should have done from day one!(like the did V8, even tho the T junction is only plastic).
Did I fit up easy? no trimming needed on hose/s?
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
I kinda agree. I quite like the metal t section. The silicon feels secure when you fit them. My engine saver probe is the same thread as the welded but. I did cut a bit off each of the 2 hoses going to the engine, but it wasn’t much. Maybe 1” off the smaller and 3/4” off the larger. But I think it’s better to have the hoses too long than too short. Plus this was I could adjust things to ensure the sensor wires and coolant hoses aren’t touching the a/c compressor.
I even managed to cut a piece off the old smaller hose to protect the a/c pipe from rubbing the engine breather pipe (marked with red in pic). Overall, so far I’m happy with my progress. All the other hoses can wait for another day.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
last sept on way to nth qld, towing a campertrailer. top hose developed pin hole leak. ordered replacement from mario sent to destination. temp patch worked fine.
fast forward several months. decided to change top hose while doing other jobs. leaking at top hose to rad connection. no reason found. doing my head in.
then fitted 2 spring clips to hose. this slowed down flow enough to see that leak coming from within wall of hose. several little spots equally spaced around the end of hose. GRRRRRRR !!
I bought a set of Roose Motorsport Silicon hoses for my TD5, just the top and bottom rad hose.
Looked great in the packet, and ive used their turbo hoses already with success.
However, the top Silicone Radiator hose is no good, all the T Junctions are incorrect, and the hoses point in all the wrong directions.
There was nothing wrong with my OEM rubber hoses, but I thought better to be safe than sorry.
Looks like ill be going back to genunine me thinks...
They probably just sent you the incorrect kit. Defender or Disco?(if there is any difference).
Just had a peek at Roose's products, and those molded junction hoses are the type that are more likely to split/delaminate at the junction.
The metal T junction less likely. Obviously a weld could split or rust or whatever too, but me thinks less likely.
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
I beleive its the correct kit, like, it would fit, if U just jammed it on (and didnt care), but U would end up with a bit of a twist in the top pipe, also it would rub hard on the AC compressor.
I havnt had a problem with the genuine ones on it, so im going to just buy a complete set of those (which are ironcally cheaper than the Roose ones were from the UK) and maybe keep the Silicone as a spare, JIC.
Having one of those metal T Pieces stashed under the seat somewhere in case of emergency would be the Ideal I reckon.
If you had just the metal T juntion out of say the silicon hose hit that John showed .. you'd be better off to cut down the original hoses and adapt them to fit the metal junctions.
The weak points on the original hoses are those molded junctions AND the weakling little bleed nipple.
Also, as some have already pointed out, sometimes the leak may be at one of the ends, or say the split is close too one end ... instead of replacing the entire hose, you just replace the section where the leak is.
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
Dredging up an old post
Genuine hose is leaking again through the core......
Anyone got a link to a silicon one that’s good quality, I’d really just like the tee sections and adapt into my leaking hose! But can’t find just the tees online?
I’ve looked up samco and can’t find stock available?
Cheers Lemo
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