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OK I just consulted "How to Power Tune Rover V8 Engines "By Des Hammill amnd on page 32 it states
"Blocks with a daub of RED paint or numbers in the range of 2.8, 2.9 or 3.0 written on them are clearly the most desirable(4.6 litre ones)." 3MM is the thickness when the sleeve is centred.
This book is pretty authoritive and the bible for modifying Rover V8s along with teh earlier "Tuning Rover V8 engines" By David Hardcastle which I also have.
Regards Philip A
Good info. Thanks[emoji106]
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Did it also mention the other colours (blue, yellow and possibly green). I think the green relates to some other tolerance.
Dude, if it's just a small coolant leak and you have no other issues with the heads why not try some "K Seal" first?
It's the only product I've found to be successful for leaks like that and it really does no harm. You can get it at Supercheap for about $25.
And really if the engine needs all the other things you mentioned you might as well pull the engine and freshen the whole thing up. If you are doing the work yourself that is. I know Britpart has a bad rep, but but their stuff is so cheap! And touch wood, I haven't had any of their stuff fail on me as yet.
I’ve got a full top end gasket set (Elring) in the garage I don’t need any more since I sold the Rangie
Cheers
Nick
Thanks everyone. Conflicting info on the coloured tags there, just going to keep hoping green is acceptable. It is a 4.0L not a 4.6 if that makes any difference. Might check out those books for some future inspiration.
Still going on the head gasket job, just got the heads to come off tomorrow. Have been slowed down by resistant exhaust bolts which needed much soaking in penetrating spray. I didn't break any bolts but found a bolt missing and a random nut glued in the manifold... have found a few surprises from the previous owner. Looks like the heads are weeping coolant at all 4 ends. After removing pumps and mounting brackets from the front the leaks are bigger than I first thought.
I recently flushed the cooling system, including pulling the radiator out for a thorough clean, so no k seal for me. Thanks for the tip though. Got a full gasket set already, thanks for the offer.
Done the diffs, will do the transfer case next. It is leaking and will probably need to come down for a reseal. Haven't needed too many parts, just fluids and gaskets and a few pumps at this stage. I'm enjoying working on the D2, no jack stands needed and it even has a built in seat (the bull bar).
Shell
Have tried breaker bars and impact wrenches, normal hex sockets, impact hex sockets, bolt extractor sockets, kincrome's lok on sockets, lots of penetrating spray and tapping with a rubber mallet. Have broken several extension bars. The head bolts won't move, and are becoming damaged on the corners but not rounded yet. If I can't get the bolts out I will have to put it back together without replacing the head gaskets and hope that the coolant seal stuff will work. Any ideas anyone?
Shell
From experience with Triumph Stag head bolts (which are absolute shockers for seizing solid) try tightening the bolts up so as to break the seal other than that we would use a mig welder to form a dome on top of the bolt so as top transfer heat down its length. Sounds like someone has over tightened the bolts to bodge the coolant leak.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Ok,, so does anyone actually have an engine with these ^^^^ numbers??
Before I refreshed my memory by looking up the book, I hadn't heard of the numbers. I do know the paint is in the valley , but I don't know where the numbers would be.
Regards Philip A