If you do end up with a top hat liner job, make sure you use Cometic MLS head gaskets in 94mm bore size. The standard 96mm head gaskets only just clamp the top hat liners and if the block isn't perfect, the liners will move and destroy the head gasket each and every year.
Mate PM me and I will give you details of the bloke to ring. Cheers
Got on Gumtree and sold the car to the wreckers and bought a brand new car.
Honestly this is what I did late last year for what appears to be the exact same issue. (175k on a 2003 D2. Very well looked after and still hopeless)
Don't think it's that uncommon an issue to be fair (Andrew). If it's published on Youtube it's been around for sometime.
Sorry, I cut my loses. I was over doing repairs on the beast. Also realised how advanced cars are these days in the process.
Why not just pull that block down and get it top hatted (not all that expensive) and rebuild with your current internals.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
With the heads now off I expect this is the way I will be heading. However I am still looking at some other options.
What concerns me about your advice however, is that I don’t quite understand the underlying cause of the failure. If the block is cracked causing coolant to escape past the sleeve, is it not likely to be passing at the top and bottom? In this case, a new set of top hatted sleeves is not going to stop a leak at the bottom end. Or am I missing something?
What would be a ball park figure for re-sleeving using my block?
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
It's a bit long to copy and paste but Des Hammill's book "How to Power tune Rover V8 engines" covers this in great detail from Page 24 to 33. It used to be on Amazon a while ago, and you could read bits of it.
The blocks crack near the head bolt usually with a horizontal crack about an inch down. It is caused by the block casting slipping and therefore having a thin thickness of aluminium on one side that supports the liner.
The fix is the flanged gasket and the flange seals the sleeve at the top to he head gasket .
The bottom is sealed with silastic or was when Wildcat engineering started having the problems. As you know Turner engineering do replacement flanged blocks.
This seals in the water as it has nowhere to go.
Maybe there are different methods now but someone like Les Richmond in Melbourne should be able to help with costs and practicality.
Look, these cars are now "enthusiast" cars and the decision on whether to scrap or not when an extremely expensive problem happens has to be up to the person who owns it. I personally think I would fix mine if something major happened as it suits my purposes like no more modern car. My daughter has a 2105 Mitsubishi Challenger and to me it is worse to drive that my 2002 TD5 with enormous turbo lag. It has all the fruit but who needs most of the stuff. Their motor died at 40KK but luckily was under warranty so **** happens even to new cars.
Regards Philip A
Here is a PDF ( I think as I didn't download it) http://colombia.ifj.org/how-to-power...-and-track.pdf
Does this look like a sleeve that has slipped, because after looking at this very closely, it looks exactly the same as the good ones.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
Looking at a liner it may be obvious it has slipped but as the liner moves up and down when it has slipped, any particular liner could be at the top or at the bottom of its movement range - if at the top it may not be obvious just by looking at it. I have a bare 4.6 block that has slipped liners on cylinders 4 and 6 and looking at it, you would never know.
Symptoms of a slipped liner are the sticky tappet type noise, coolant in the combustion chamber - in an engine that has been running - evidence of "steam cleaning" where coolant has come up the outside of the liner (your pic shows a possible small gap between liner block at the top of the pic but is hard to see.
To me, what you have described is symptomatic of a slipped liner - as mentioned there is really no other way coolant can get into that cylinder.
The last time I checked liners were about $100 each and then the labour cost of machining. It must be done correctly - I know of a recent incident where the new T liners were not rammed home in the block before the block was levelled so there was a gap under the lip of the liner and it slipped on start.
Machine shops familiar with the RV8 should know what they are doing.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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