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I don’t have a 490nm torque wrench and so did the following. I weigh 82kg which multiplied by 2.2 is 180pounds. At two feet this is 360foot pounds. At a factor of 1.35 this is 490nm. Simply adjust the distance for your weight. Mark the bar at the distance and gently step and bring full weight onto marked position. Do not shock load. I note the torque altered from 490nm to 340nm when loctite spec changed From 680 to 640.
Comments or thoughts?
When I bought my D2 the mechanics where going through the process of rewiring the sensor from hub to appropriate pin under the dash. They had already changed the hub. In my case this didn't resolve the 3 amigos. To top I had to replace the hub again. I bought a 1m breaker bar to remove the old hub (expected to be jumping at the end of that to get the nut off; had also planned to use my weight at appropriate distance for correct torque), sadly I could undo the bolt with a 35cm breaker bar and one arm - the hub looked new from oil seeping through, and don't think this was from the O ring but through failure to use adhesive on the splines - someone noted water ingress might be issue too (the oil leak resulted in my current diff issue). If you trust your current wiring back to the panels, you can splice the wire close to the hub and connect it there...its a magnetic feedback type system so doesn't matter which wires you splice together...I replaced the hub with a second hand hub and rod. Had to splice in this way because the original wiring was defunct. (Having said that, some people think that putting the single line back from sensor to panel is right way to go). At the end my 3 amigos was a result of the connection that breaks inside the Wabco unit, it's less than a $30 and 3hr fix unless there's something wrong with the shuttle valve (I'm not sure if that's what you meant by the work around the break booster). There's a thread currently on the go about "shuttle valve", referring to the bypass there...