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Thread: Replace the radiator, fix a nasty oil leak

  1. #11
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    Could be worse!
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  2. #12
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    Yep could be. Might still be for all I know I still might have engine issues after I have get it all back together. Though it did seem to run ok after boiling. Mate of mine has a V8 R/R and said they really drove a long way with a cooking engine and it was ok once the burst water pipe was replaced.

    How much has to be removed to get at the top 4 bolts to take out the engine? Now the sump is off I only have the exhausts and the engine mounts plus the top 4 bolts and two electrical connections, and drive plate to get the engine out. If I can reassemble the engine, manifold, timing, water pump, and the other ancillaries out of the car it would be easier. I have an overhead chain lift. Cutting a hole in the fire wall to get at the bolts doesn't look like an option, too much stuff to remove inside.

  3. #13
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    You don’t need to cut holes in the fire wall.
    I took the engine mounts off and lowered the motor to easily get the top two out.
    The four side ones were more difficult, but quite simple if you attack it from underneath behind the transmission, with many socket extension pieces and universals.
    I used a 3/8” drive socket, an extension, a universal, another extension, then 3/8 to 1/2” drive adaptor, a universal, another extension and a breaker bar. Very long and unwieldy, but if you have a second person to hold the socket in position from above, then it’s quite straight forward.
    However, If you already have the sump and harmonic balancer off, I wouldn’t try to take the motor out. It does take a long time to get those last few bits off.
    I’m assuming you have already removed the inlet manifold, injectors etc.
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  4. #14
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    I was a bit premature saying the sump is off. Yep almost everything is off except the sump that must have been glued on. All the bolts out but it is still stuck fast. The cross member is not off as the 10mm bolt heads have just rounded the hex off. Looks like an angle grinder or drill will now be needed. If I had of realized how much lying under the vehicle was required before I started I'd have put it on the hoist. Now seeing I have to get an angle grinder to the rounded off bolts I have finally decided to try and get someone to help push/manouver it to where the hoist is and do it the easy way. Well easier way. This is the first car built since 1975 that I have worked on. I have 11 old cars that I do all the work on except upolstery and chrome plating. But my moderns I usually take to the agent and say service it or fix it. There are too many pipes and electrical connections for me to be bothered with. The other thing, all my old cars have a very detailed parts manual. Wish I had one for the Discovery. The workshop manual is a bit ho hum as well.

  5. #15
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    Car on the hoist and son and I spent half the afternoon and the sump is still not off. I have removed every bolt and pipe mentioned in Rave. We have checked and re checked but the sump has been bashed with heavy block of wood. Levered with screw drivers and a tyre lever. We have run a knife all the way down both sides incase the rubber was glued to the engine and still the sump won't come off. It feels like there is still a loose bolt or some thing holding it at the bell housing end but I can assure you unless Rave has missed some thing there are no bolts not out. If we lever the sump the timing/front cover also moves with the sump but the studs have their nuts removed and the holes are actually a bit bigger than the studs. I am begining to hate this motor. It has only done 120,000 k's. Now the transfer case is also spewing oil out the rear seal I think. Rubber is always the first to go when a car is kept in storage for a while and not used.

  6. #16
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    Did you get the two bolts hidden in the hollows of the sump?
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggin View Post
    Did you get the two bolts hidden in the hollows of the sump?
    Yep, even counted the bolts to make sure I had enough as per Rave. I cannot get the knife into the rear, or the front edge. Sump seems to be still connected to the front cover as it moves with the sump, so might be still glued there. I'll try again this morning.

    Thanks for your interest and help.

  8. #18
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    Replace the radiator, fix a nasty oil leak
    You’re just not hitting it hard enough with the rubber mallet.
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  9. #19
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    Using a longer knife I cut through some white silcon that had been put on the rear part of the sump and it fell away.

    Am I glad I took it off and I then removed the tappet covers, I have never seen an engine with so much sludge. When I bought the car it had been in storage for some time and first thing I did was change oils, filters etc. The service book says oil changed at 60,000 k's but the car had at that time done 116,000 k's. A small amount of sludge came out with the oil I have since done 5000 or so k's.

    115.jpg116.jpg122.jpg

  10. #20
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    Probably not recommended, but I am going to block off the inlet and exhaust ports and use a high pressure degreaser spray on the engine internals. Hope I don't block hydraulic tappets with glug. Then wash it off with diesel, or perhaps kero, that will evaporate better than diesel. Then oil all the bits I can see and when it is all back together crank it over with fresh oil before starting and then drain it and put in a new lot. Bit expensive two lots of oil and two filters but perhaps worth it. Think I had better check the oil pump too.

    Any comments appreciated.

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