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Thread: Replace the radiator, fix a nasty oil leak

  1. #1
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    Replace the radiator, fix a nasty oil leak

    D2 V8. First I left the cap off the water reservoir, and it went for quite a distance before it boiled. I have had an undetectable water leak for a while but now I could clearly see it squirting out of the radiator. The car started and ran ok after it had cooled. So I ordered a new aluminium radiator. Not the cheapest nor the dearest. But the brackets weren't quite right so they returned $80 and I can easily make a new bracket out of 25mm by 3mm. But once the radiator was out I found I had a worse oil leak than I thought and decided it was the valley cover. So removed more and more of the ancillery gear and their support brackets only to find that perhaps it was also the timing cover gasket. So more and more has to be removed. I think now that almost everything is removed it might have been easier to pull the motor out first. Not that I have looked at how difficult seperating the auto box from the motor might be. I really hate working on cars that are younger than 45 years. Too many pipes and wires for me. Hope I can remember where they all go. The manual isn't always that much help.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robflocar View Post
    D2 V8. First I left the cap off the water reservoir, and it went for quite a distance before it boiled. I have had an undetectable water leak for a while but now I could clearly see it squirting out of the radiator. The car started and ran ok after it had cooled. So I ordered a new aluminium radiator. Not the cheapest nor the dearest. But the brackets weren't quite right so they returned $80 and I can easily make a new bracket out of 25mm by 3mm. But once the radiator was out I found I had a worse oil leak than I thought and decided it was the valley cover. So removed more and more of the ancillery gear and their support brackets only to find that perhaps it was also the timing cover gasket. So more and more has to be removed. I think now that almost everything is removed it might have been easier to pull the motor out first. Not that I have looked at how difficult seperating the auto box from the motor might be. I really hate working on cars that are younger than 45 years. Too many pipes and wires for me. Hope I can remember where they all go. The manual isn't always that much help.
    Feel your pain, but...

    buy a perentie, preferably a 6x6... ITs Fantabulous...... Soooo much space, you can see all the bits and theres not to much of "in order to remove the dingledangler you must first remove the dipplewhapper, to remove the dipplewhapper it is required to disassemble the afntiblurper which means the goggleplexing mechanics cost mulitplier has to come off and that can only be done AFter you remove the body.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robflocar View Post
    D2 V8. First I left the cap off the water reservoir, and it went for quite a distance before it boiled. I have had an undetectable water leak for a while ..
    That was a bad move especially if the ambient pressure went below 101.3 KPa cos there the water has 100*C boiling point, this point is decreasing together with the pressure so if you went uphill and the pressure dropped below 100 the boiling point went downwards to 90 which is not high for a V8 on a long run if it's warm outside...that's why the tank's cap has two o-rings and a valve to keep the cooling system under pressure to raise the boiling point so it's important for the cooling system to have a well tigthened properly working tank cap.

    It's possible that your undetectable water leak was caused by a non sealing tank cap so you might change the radiator in vain... better put a new genuine tank cap first and tighten it to max allowed then do a test that way.
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  4. #4
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    Water will boil at 90C at 2700m elevation. The highest point in Queensland in 1611m about 95C BP. Gets closer on Mount Kosciuszko 2,228m about 92.5C BP
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Water will boil at 90C at 2700m elevation. The highest point in Queensland in 1611m about 95C BP. Gets closer on Mount Kosciuszko 2,228m about 92.5C BP
    The atmospheric pressure is not only height dependant but that's not the main point of my reply... the gist is that a IMO it's not strange at all for a V8 to boil the water with tank cap removed not even at standard pressure especially if the viscous fan doesnt work well cos it can heat up to 100*C on a long run that's why many owners are using the soft spring thermostat on them.
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  6. #6
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    Yep first thing I bought a "new cap" the other disappeared until I started pulling off parts and there it was well hidden from view. Too late, new one was already on.

  7. #7
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    Having replaced the radiator and (nearly) all the hoses I still have the mystery of coolant invisibly being not there, and having to top up the header tank occasionally. Suspecting the filler cap I found that the overflow pipe can be put down the neck of a 1.5litre cool drink bottle which sits snugly inone the few gaps under the TD5 bonnet.
    Just a thought - if you are losing coolant from the overflow it will show up in the bottle.
    2002 Disco 2 TD5 Auto

  8. #8
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    Now for the oil leak

    Been away for a holiday but now I'am chasing the oil leak which may be coming from the timing cover with a small soak from the valley cover but having removed everything except the sump (I have removed the three timing cover nuts from the sump) I still cannot remove the timing cover. It is loose. The manual says remove the oil pick up strainer and pipe. To do that, I take it, that the sump must come off. Is the oil pick up pipe stopping me removing the timing cover? Surely the sump doesn't have to be off to get the timing cover off!!! If so I may as well remove the engine completely and make replacing all the ancillary bits easier.

  9. #9
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    The timing cover won’t come off without unbolting the oil pick up tube from the oil pump, which is part of the timing cover. Yes, the sump will need to be off.
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggin View Post
    The timing cover won’t come off without unbolting the oil pick up tube from the oil pump, which is part of the timing cover. Yes, the sump will need to be off.
    Thanks for the reply but b@#$%.

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