Dredge from a few years ago
AncientMariner (Noel) is a dead set legend of landy modifications
LT230
Post #2 is where it is at!
S
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Dredge from a few years ago
AncientMariner (Noel) is a dead set legend of landy modifications
LT230
Post #2 is where it is at!
S
Today’s progress
I decided rather than clean each part as I remove it, that I would dismantle and clean it all later. I haven’t removed the centre diff and associated cluster yet, that’s for tomorrow.
Am I right I’m assuming that I should replace this part? If so, would anyone have one lying around that I could buy off you?
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
I would not put in in dishwasher with dish washing powder, It is to basic, high pH it will eat away the aluminium. How a bout a bucket of kero and a soak?
Good idea to put the steel insert in.
I wish I had a ATB what did it cost to get here?
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
I hope its okay to ask here at your thread:
Is it possible to remove the diff itself only by opening the diff housing and without removing some more parts?
I have a fresh rebuilt LT230 here and would like to replace the original diff with the Ashcroft ATB.
Without taking everything apart?
Maybe somebody did this before and could give me some tipps!
If you haven't seen Brittanica Restoration on You Tube, highly recommended.
He recently (as in a week or two ago) has some vids re the LT230.
Not specifically in terms of rebuild for 'ya, but some info for you to digest there.
I can't see why you'd replace that spacer/bearing holder plate, is it obviously damaged in some way?
That plate holds the bearing race for the input gear.(flip side to your photo of it).
Are you renewing all the bearings?
And looks like (as would be expected in a late model TC) .. you have the cross drilled input gear.
More TC rebuilding tips in video form would be at LR Toolbox(YouTube again).
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
You definitely have a cross drilled input gear in that picture.
Just ensure the internal splinting for the GBox main shaft are in good nick.
Be careful pressing out/ in the bearing races! I cracked a front housing leaning a little too much hydraulic pressure onto them!
Have you a dial gauge and mag base for checking endfloat?
I found that even with the new ATB centre, using the same shims as removed resulted in-spec end float. From this I assumed the shins are to take up case tolerance not shaft/ bearing tolerance?
S
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
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