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That cracked out portion looks to be from an over zealous monkey wrench spinner knocking the bearing race out.
If that is the only damage it “should” be okay, but first remove the bearing race and make sure that the machined recess for the race is in good condition.
S
This case has definitely been rebuilt recently. There are no paper gaskets (silicon only) and all the bearings look like they’re in quite good condition. I’m thinking of keeping the couple of bearings and race cones that are a real PITA to remove. They look practically new. I’m going to replace the sensors as they’ve been damaged from lying around for a while.
Here’s today’s progress. I’ve got some parts soaking in kero overnight (that plus I’ve run out of black gloves until Monday!)
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Doesn’t that ATB look sexy?
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Like I’ve posted previously, the below bearing holder is cracked. I agree that it looks like it was done by an idiot with a big hammer when putting in the bearing. The bearing seems new and unworn (same with the race cone), so I’m thinking of leaving it in place. What do you all think? I’m after reliability but that chipped part doesn’t look like it’s going to effect the stability of the case. I’ll bring it on Monday to the engineer along with the case for re-sleeving and get his thoughts also.
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ps. can't believe I didn't notice the cracked out bit! .. I was looking at the condition of the face(early morning I guess, still prefer to be in bed!)
With the cracked plate issue :
could you plan to have the bearing at hand(that is get one as a spare).
You remove your current TC, and before you fit the rebuilt TC, fit bearing to the new input gear and remove the old housing, fit new bearing race to old TB box plate, fit better plate to your rebuilt TC.
A tip with bearings into aluminium housings.
Pre-heat the bearing plate or housing, I have a small, electric hot plate but have used a blow lamp in the distant past. Keep the flame constantly moving. Never leave it in one spot. An electric heat gun would probably work too.
You only want 100*c, use the 'pop' test, drop some spit or a drop or two of water onto the housing, when the water dances and pops it's hot enough, you don't want anymore heat and the race will just drop in.
It just saves damaging anything in a press and makes sure bearings are pressed home properly.
Judicious use of heat will also release a bearing easily.
And keep everything clean clean clean. Surgically clean.
Then you won't have an issues down the track.
John
That cracked flange will be of no consequence
It only locates the bearing race depth
The only problem is see with re-using bearings is they may look okay but have excess play in them. If you have all new bearings it is pretty simple to change them over?
In any case looks like your well on the way!
It will all go back together quickly once the case is machined!
S
I hadn’t actually thought of that. That’s a good idea. I’ve been thinking of removing and fitting this TC myself in my driveway. I was thinking of making an adaptor for the shop jackQuote:
Originally Posted by AK83
[QUOTE=roverrescue;2912578]The only problem is see with re-using bearings is they may look okay but have excess play in them. If you have all new bearings it is pretty simple to change them over?
/QUOTE]
Well yes, I was just trying to avoid it. But the tip about adding heat is good.
In the interest of full disclosure, I haven’t ever removed or pressed bearings onto a project like this. I have a 12t press that I bought so I could do my radius arm bushes. If someone hadn’t suggested a press (I’ll go to supercheap to get a bearing press ‘kit’) I would have tapped them in with a small hammer. That’s how I did the winch bearings!
How do I get the race cone out of the cracked plate? Soft drift & gentle taps?
I wouldn't do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
Get a new bearing and fit it to the housing that isn't cracked.
Oh! ... unless you want to test your bearing removal skills on the cracked one first.
If you have a press, I'd use that .. more sure of a squared up fitting process.
Do you have a heat gun?
cheapie camp gas bottle guns work well.
I think my torch head cost like $9 from a cheapie hardware shop. Gas refils are also cheap.
LIKE THIS ONE
Produces plenty enough heat for aluminium, and like Rick said .. just keep the flame in motion.
gas refils are also cheap.
Handy tools they are .. you wouldn't think it, but super handy to get a camp fire going [thumbsupbig]
While I only helped my mechanic do my LT230 all those years back, and I don't remember all the processes well, I definitely do remember no heat was used, so no heat on this bearing for my rebuild.
And mine didn't have the cross drilled input gear, so was a very expensive full rebuild too. (ie. new bearings all round).
Yep, that's how I have always done it.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
When I have fit them, I heat the plate up, and put the cone in the freezer, goes in easier.