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Thread: LT230 Rebuild

  1. #1
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    LT230 Rebuild

    I’ve got horrible backlash in my drive train. It’s not the driveshafts, and although the rear diff makes more noise than the front, I’m not convinced that it’s the diffs either. A year or 2 ago I bought a spare 42D LT230 for 1 or 2 hundred with the idea of rebuilding it when mine packed it in. I also ‘found’ a rebuild kit from someone on Facebook. So, with the LT230 overhaul manual on my workbench, theoretically I’m ready to go.

    Here’s today’s progress. I have a predominately woodworking workshop, so my 75mm thick hardwood workbench needs some protection thanks to the kids old pink curtains.

    I’ve successfully removed the intermediate shaft and the pto cover. I’ve bought an Ashcrofts ATB centre diff unit and a high capacity sump for this rebuild.

    I’ll post regular updates so feel free to speak up if you see me doing something not smart.

    For those with with extra good eyes, the gear I’m using as a paperweight came from my Thomas Crank Handle/Electric Winch rebuild.

    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  2. #2
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    I found with my shed which I have done a lot of metal fabrication that everything gets covered in grime and when making a wooden item your forever sanding out oily smudge marks.
    I’m no expert but I would look at your star gear thrust washers for your backlash cause.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitey56 View Post
    I found with my shed which I have done a lot of metal fabrication that everything gets covered in grime and when making a wooden item your forever sanding out oily smudge marks.
    I’m no expert but I would look at your star gear thrust washers for your backlash cause.
    I know, that’s why I have 2 layers of backed curtain on my bench. I think I might add a layer of plastic under that for my own mental health.

    What are star gear thrust washers?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  4. #4
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    star = suns? planets?
    I'm thinking.

    Common problem in the centre diff.
    The copper(I think) thrust washers are usually the main culprit.

    I remember having mine done in my old RRC(which I converted to LT230/LT77) and the difference between the worn and the new ones was startling in backlash terms.

    But as you're building one up and using an ATB, the ATB is supposedly gong to automatically minimise CD backlash.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    star = suns? planets?
    So I should look towards the heavens for an answer?
    Last edited by Homestar; 23rd May 2019 at 07:51 AM. Reason: fixed quote
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    So I should look towards the heavens for an answer?
    Or maybe get the paper and look in the astrology section?
    What star sign is your D2?
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  7. #7
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    John
    You don’t need to worry about the sun moon and stars
    You are very sensible replacing all that palaver with an ATB
    Makes the rebuild a diddle when you simple remove old centre and deposit into the bin
    The Ashcroft centre comes ready to rumble, pretty much chuck it in check preload and bolt her up!

    Two things I’d give a once over are the input gear (ensure it is cross drilled) if not replace
    And carefully inspect the lay shaft and especially where it is supported by the Al case.
    Honestly, this IS the time to machine the case and press in a steel insert to ensure no leaks. AncientMariner has a great write up with picture which you could replicate it take to a machinist and have them do it?

    Oh and a tip, once you’ve split out the case and housings
    Plonk em in the dishwasher and run the hottest cycle you can with extra detergent

    Will come out shiny and purdy like!

    S

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    John
    You don’t need to worry about the sun moon and stars
    You are very sensible replacing all that palaver with an ATB
    Makes the rebuild a diddle when you simple remove old centre and deposit into the bin
    The Ashcroft centre comes ready to rumble, pretty much chuck it in check preload and bolt her up!

    Two things I’d give a once over are the input gear (ensure it is cross drilled) if not replace
    And carefully inspect the lay shaft and especially where it is supported by the Al case.
    Honestly, this IS the time to machine the case and press in a steel insert to ensure no leaks. AncientMariner has a great write up with picture which you could replicate it take to a machinist and have them do it?

    Oh and a tip, once you’ve split out the case and housings
    Plonk em in the dishwasher and run the hottest cycle you can with extra detergent

    Will come out shiny and purdy like!

    S
    I told my wife that I’m going to put the transfer case in the dishwasher...she rolled her eyes. Serious tho, previous aluminium items that I’ve put in the dishwasher have come out with a funny film and anything but shiny. Should I not use my regular Finish Dishwashing Blocks?

    I’m going to take it to an engineer to get sleeved. From what I understand the CDL feature will still work with an ATB?

    Not quite sure what you mean by the input gears, but I haven’t gotten that far into the case yet, so your suggestion will probably make more sense when I get further into it
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  9. #9
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    You want to buy the cheapest powdered dishwashing you can
    Pure caustic goodness!

    Good plan on getting the box sleeved.
    Take the layshaft, washers and nuts and the case as well as a print out of Ancient Mariners mod to the machinist. Makes what you need clear as day.

    CDL works as before (dog clutch engaging normally) with the ATB
    So you have LSD or locked. If you enjoy spirited driving on dirt the ATB is easily the best mod you can do.

    The input gear is the big paperweight behind the PTO plate. In your pic you have the plate off.
    Reach in and pull the gear out, see that it is cross drilled through the neck of the gear.
    If not, on a full rebuild box like your doing, just buy a brand newy to ensure best spline engagement with the Gear Bag main shaft.

    S

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Good plan on getting the box sleeved.
    Take the layshaft, washers and nuts and the case as well as a print out of Ancient Mariners mod to the machinist. Makes what you need clear as day.
    Thanks. I’ll do that.

    What do u mean by ancient mariners?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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