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Thread: CDL install - last battle (hopefully)

  1. #1
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    CDL install - last battle (hopefully)

    Finally getting there with my CDL instal on an '01 using an facelift linkage. Mechanical newbie... but it has gone pretty well, not having 100% right bits has meant a couple more trips to the hardware than I planned.
    Now that I've got the two bolts to shift loose, Friday night was trying to line up the linkage and having trouble getting the shifter to click it over .

    To make sure it wasn't stuck at the TC, I confirmed I can move the spigot with a spanner, it moves about 45deg to the right and I can hear a distinct click that sounds like the mechanism engaging. But I'm not getting a CDL light on the dash. I've read online that sometimes you need to move the car back and forth a tad to get it to show, or that it might be a bulb.

    Before I go any further though, could someone please confirm that I am actually locking the diff with spanner? In the image the yellow line is the original spigot position, and the red is what it moves to when it clicks. That way I know if I'm dealing with a dodgy mechanism or a dodgy light.

    Any tips on getting the light to show appreciated too, thanks very much.

    IMG_4585.jpg

  2. #2
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    The yellow/red positions of the spigot seem OK to me... to check the warning light bridge the two plugs of the diff-lock switch and if it comes on this way it mean the problem is with the switch or it's actuation, if still no warning with bridged circuit then it's a wiring issue
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  3. #3
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    The cdl will rarely engage without some movement. The splines of the dog clutch must align for this to happen. Then the light will come on, providing sierrafery’s test checks out.
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

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    CDL instal - last battle (hopefully)

    The range of movement looks about right. On getting the light to show, understand that the “lock” function is a dog clutch and the rotating bits need to line up for the lock to engage. If stationary put the transmission Hi - Lo RANGE selector to N before engaging the CDL. Mine usually engages if not instantly, then within 5metres of the D2 moving. Sometimes it can take longer for dog clutch to disengage, and so it is wise to decide to disengage well before you get to the blacktopCDL install - last battle (hopefully)
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  5. #5
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    Last Battle?

    Maybe with the CDL, Many 'battles' with a Land Rover.
    Last edited by Bohica; 15th June 2019 at 08:41 AM. Reason: fix spelling.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
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    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    The range of movement range looks about right. On getting the light to show, understand that the “lock” function is a dog clutch and the rotating bits need to line up for the lock to engage. If stationary put the transmission Hi - Lo RANGE selector to N when engaging the CDL. Mine usually engages if not instantly, then within 5metres of the D2 moving. It can take longer to disengage, so it is wise to decide to disengage well before you get to the blacktopCDL install - last battle (hopefully)
    Thanks everyone, pretty good overnight response! Has convinced me that the spigot is moving correctly at least.
    Onebob unfortunately in the middle of the city so the blacktop is all I've got to test on. If I just do 5m dead straight I should be okay though. If nothing switches on I'll then get to the electrics.

    However... a bigger problem has emerged...

    My cable for the CDL linkage is too long! I know that's not really the case but bugger me if it doesn't seem like it

    So, the cable is hooked up to the lever:

    In this pic you can see that the spigot is engaged, and that the threaded collar is fully extended forward through the mounting bracket (ie the inner nut is just attached to the collar, there's no more room to extend the collar away from the spigot).

    IMG_4605.jpg

    So far nothing too alarming. But at the other end, with the cable attached by pin clip and with the lever in the 'lock' position, There's a decent couple of cm's of 'extra' cable that is stopping me from putting the receptor for the c-clip through to the other side so that I could clip it in place.

    IMG_4604 2.jpg

    To put it another way, if I do push the receptor through and have the lever c-clipped into position as well, this forces the lever back to the 'unlocked' position, so that I've effectively got a back to front set up: Spigot is locked, lever is in unlocked position, and obviously can't move either way to unlock the spigot.

    Baffled. Any ideas that stop my head exploding welcome!

  7. #7
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    CDL instal - last battle (hopefully)

    ⚠️....... firstly DO NOT engage the CDL and drive when on a solid surface - only engage and drive when on a loose surface otherwise transmission “wind up” will prevent the dog clutch from disengaging and ....🧨
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  8. #8
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    CDL instal - last battle (hopefully)

    Secondly, I’m sorry, but i can’t assist with the cable issues. My installation is quite different to yours - I have an air shifter to engage / disengage my CDL.
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  9. #9
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    You can test it all by putting the gearbox in neutral with the handbrake on. Chock one front wheel and jack the other one up. With the diff lock disengaged the jacked up wheel should turn freely. With the diff lock engaged the wheel will turn a bit until it engages at which point the light should come on with the ignition on. To disengage the diff lock disengage it at the lever and turn the jacked up wheel a bit in both directions until it turns freely at that stage the light should go out.
    Cheers,
    Mark F...
    Vk3KW

    2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
    2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
    197? Range Rover - gone
    1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
    Outback Campers Sturt
    http://jandmf.com

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Maybe with the CDL, Many 'battles' with a Land Rover.

    Yeah im really setting myself up here

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