CDL install - last battle (hopefully)

While I’m here, may as well ask what this is? Looks like it’s there to attach to something when fitting in the tunnel, but none of the instructions mention it. Everything just says stuff the cable in, but there is a lot of it. Even without the 2cm extra that I feel like I’m dealing with.

Attachment 151952

That helped me to figure it out... no one mentions it because I’m using the high low cable from the donor not the lock cable! High low cable has the fitting, and the lock cable doesn’t

[bigrolf]

Well it would have taken me a lot longer to figure it out if I hadn’t had tried to explain it to other people, so thanks all the same 😉

Going to rivet it up and find a bit of gravel to get that light on.

And if that goes well still have some time tmr to go for a run and try it out properly!

Not getting a CDL light with a short bit of grass driving however. Will take a look tmr.

One thing I’m nervous about though: when I tightened up the M8 ny-lock nut on the spigot, I can only tighten it so hard until the force of that clicks it over to lock. When I push it back to unlock it feels like the nut is only hand tightened again? I’m ratchet tightening it with with my hand holding the actuator in unlock position.

Ive got a washer below the nut.

Should I be concerned? Should the nut have any movement with actuator?
Do I need to worry about it loosening itself off?? Or is that the whole point of the ny-lock bit...

Really showing my lack of basics here it’s amazing I got this far really! Any pointers much appreciated.

Cheers, Will

as long as the nylok part of the nut is engaged its fine,, but you should be able to tighten it all the way down.
Is there some rule against tightening it when the pin travels to the locked position?

and just to be clear,, disengage EARLY,, make sure the dash lights are out and three bongs are heard BEFORE you hit the bitumen.. stop the car if needed and reverse,,
A CDL is s use it or lose it thing,,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

as long as the nylok part of the nut is engaged its fine,, but you should be able to tighten it all the way down.
Is there some rule against tightening it when the pin travels to the locked position?

and just to be clear,, disengage EARLY,, make sure the dash lights are out and three bongs are heard BEFORE you hit the bitumen.. stop the car if needed and reverse,,
A CDL is s use it or lose it thing,,

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The pre-facelift D2 was never intended to have a CDL and so there are no chimes ( described as “bongs”) when engaging or dis-engaging the CDL unless the SLABS ECU has been upgraded to a later version.

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Will, remembering that the pre-facelift D2 was not intended to have CDL many owners after the CDL conversion (me included) do a further mod and cut a black/blue wire at the SLABS ECU which I recommend to do otherwise when you startup with CDL engaged and dash light on, you will have 2 or 3 amigos appear, this was to warn the service technician that he has left the CDL engaged after driveline maintenance/repairs. However, in this state TC/HDC are inhibited, hence the warning. The work around is to disengage the CDL, drive forward until dash light goes out, stop, switch off ignition, re-start, then engage CDL and continue - or cut the wire and never think of it again [emoji1417]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onebob

Will, remembering that the pre-facelift D2 was not intended to have CDL many owners after the CDL conversion (me included) do a further mod and cut a black/blue wire at the SLABS ECU which I recommend to do otherwise when you startup with CDL engaged and dash light on, you will have 2 or 3 amigos appear, this was to warn the service technician that he has left the CDL engaged after driveline maintenance/repairs. However, in this state TC/HDC are inhibited, hence the warning. The work around is to disengage the CDL, drive forward until dash light goes out, stop, switch off ignition, re-start, then engage CDL and continue - or cut the wire and never think of it again [emoji1417]

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Thanks Bob yes have paused on this until I can get the light on and off successfully but will do once I'm there.

Was asking for it with this thread name.

So: I got the Disco out on tracks today. Gave her a good run in locked position, but no light even after the multiple k’s other threads suggested might be necessary first time. It’s hard for me to tell, since I haven’t driven it with a lock before. On dirt it feels like my steering becomes slightly stiffer, but only if I think about it (that is, not convinced I’m imagining it).

Havent tried the bulb, and testing sensor is out of my pay bracket.

Heres my thinking, any confirmation either way supported.

Since I’m yet to snip the SLABS wire, when I started the car in lock and had a drive, I could get traction control to come on. Could this still indicate sensor? Ie if the sensor isn’t getting fired, then SLABS doesn’t know to inhibit traction control?

Or does this mean it’s located it within the transfer case?

Cheers, Will

Quote:

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Originally Posted by will_f

Since I’m yet to snip the SLABS wire, when I started the car in lock and had a drive, I could get traction control to come on. Could this still indicate sensor? Ie if the sensor isn’t getting fired, then SLABS doesn’t know to inhibit traction control?

Or does this mean it’s located it within the transfer case?

Cheers, Will

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As long as the warning light doesnt work it means that the locked diff input from the switch is not delivered so the SLABS doesnt get it either hence the functions are not inhibited, the diff-lock switch is replaceable in situ with a bit of contorsionism by using a tubular wrench, it's simply screwed into the housing(pointed with blue), it's not expensive and you can check the circuit by bridging the two plugs(C0306/0307) together.

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