Thread: Td5 replacement PEM500040 water pumps - which is the go to now that QH is no longer?

Watching with interest as I as going to ask what the best current TD5 pump was too. [emoji16]

Just a small point about the level of difficulty in removing/fitting of the waterpump.
We did this to bro's D2 some time back(I think early last summer).
He got the parts, but from memory it was a Bearmach boxed pump.

Thing I remember vividly was that the old pump was a total PITA to remove from it's unbolted state, out between the high speed oil pump bits and whatever else precluded it's removal.
As it was the old pump and leaking, I thought to mangle it to get it out, as it was binding by the smallest bees knacker on everything.
One last try, before hitting it with a saw, and I managed to just find a perfect angle and it came out.
Ummed and Ahhed lots about the thought of hacking it to get it out, because then the drama was getting the new one in.
So in a sense, lucky a specific angle was found that allowed the pump to finally come out from it's hellhole.

Had a smoke(or three)) and then tried to get the new one in with the thought that we didn't want to scuff any surfaces, or damage any o rings ... and whatnot.
Wouldn't you know it! ... went straight in no fuss No special angle, no special magical spell, nothing .. just went straight in with ease.
But(being me) .. I was curious as to WHY! .. made no sense .. so much drama getting old one out, and this new one popped in between everything no worries.

on closer inspection, there was a miniscule difference in the length the the pumps .. maybe on some shaft .. that totally annoying bees knacker that stopped the old one coming out, was a smaller bees knacker shorter to let it in with ease.
So to be sure, we had the right pump, made sure it engaged properly in it's shaft, and so forth.
No problems, something about a keyway at the front of the shaft or whatever for the power steering pump.

So as a bit of info, and I'm sure I'm right that bro got a Bearmach branded pump from a local supplier(I think British Car Parts in Melb).
Hasn't given any trouble, everything works as supposed too, but so much easier to fit due to whatever they redesigned into the pump.
Obviously some of the bolts were hard to get too in terms of access and stuff, but having to remove the high speed oil filter housing to change water pump is more of a PITA than fastener access.
Ratchety ring spanner made one of them not as nasty as it otherwise would have been.

The online market is full of QH pumps just google out QCP3646 or PEM500040QH, though those listed as premium brand at few stores are Proflow Water pump for Land Rover TD5 (PEM500040) - ProFlow | eBay also there is some mixed info about what's considered OEM if you search for PEM500040G

Seeing it is good practice to replace the “hidden “ oring between the bracket and block IMHO it is much easier to remove the whole bracket.
you don’t have to break into the oil system and the only difficult bolt is the middle rear one which can be removed with a 3/8 socket and uni joint.
you can also check the drive dogs and reassemble the water pump to the bracket in the comfort of your workbench.
regards Philip A

Originally Posted by sierrafery

The online market is full of QH pumps just google out QCP3646 or PEM500040QH, though those listed as premium brand at few stores are Proflow Water pump for Land Rover TD5 (PEM500040) - ProFlow | eBay also there is some mixed info about what's considered OEM if you search for PEM500040G

Thanks for providing the QH alternative part number - that's handy.
A lot of the listings for part number PEM500040QH are listed as Proflow brand or superseded by PEM500040G.
There seems to have been no agreement previously either about which was OEM.

Originally Posted by AK83

I'm sure I'm right that bro got a Bearmach branded pump from a local supplier(I think British Car Parts in Melb).
Hasn't given any trouble, everything works as supposed too, but so much easier to fit due to whatever they redesigned into the pump.
Obviously some of the bolts were hard to get too in terms of access and stuff, but having to remove the high speed oil filter housing to change water pump is more of a PITA than fastener access.
Ratchety ring spanner made one of them not as nasty as it otherwise would have been.

Thanks Aurthur. A handy bit of information to know for anyone planning to install the water pump using the method outlined in Rave. While I'd rather we stay on topic of the brands of the pump, not installation methods, I will comment for the purpose of anyone else reading in the future contemplating taking on this job, that having both done this method myself (that you've outlined above) and found it highly frustrating due to the tight working space and then having to go back again in the future and remove the accessories bracket to replace the ERR6711 seal I wouldn't bother again. Personally I think it's just as easy and less frustrating to just remove the accessories bracket and you have the advantage of being able to replace the seal at the same time preventing you having to do it again in the future. The ability to then work on it on the bench means you can clean it all up properly, run a thread chaser over the bolts and holes, ensure no dirt or anything has entered the system, torque it all to spec, etc.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

...the only difficult bolt is the middle rear one which can be removed with a 3/8 socket and uni joint.
you can also check the drive dogs and reassemble the water pump to the bracket in the comfort of your workbench.

Definitely agree about this being the only challenge. Personally I couldn't get a 3/8" or 1/4" shocked and universal joint in there and I have four different brand sets (Sidchrome, Kincrome, Stanley and Repco) that I tried. I ended up using a 1/4" single hex socket on the bolts hex head and holding the extension bar in there at a slight angle (a 1/4" wobble extension would have been better) - Td5 - removing the accessories (PAS, ACE, water pump) bracket middle rear bolt

Originally Posted by PhilipA

you can also check the drive dogs and reassemble the water pump to the bracket in the comfort of your workbench.

A good idea. The reason I have just removed and replaced my QH unit is that one of the two drive teeth has broken off - this has taken the tension out of the coupling and so the power steering unit was no longer turning the water pump. It's a shame as the actual water pump itself is in good condition with no leaking.

Originally Posted by twr7cx

I recently compared an Airtex (made in Spain) brand and Eurospare (made in Great Britain) to an old removed QH. The Airtex and QH looked almost identical

I sure hope the Airtex is the go as that is what i have bought. I was told it is the OEM ....mmmm. Time will tell.
Thanks for the centre bolt on the accessories bracket removal tips. I look forward to that job

Originally Posted by Max Headroom 2.3m

I sure hope the Airtex is the go as that is what i have bought. I was told it is the OEM ....

From all the listings I've seen, Proflow is the claimed OEM supplier and Airtex is listed as pattern part. Check the seals as they don't put padding in their box and one of mine was damaged from the pump hitting it.

Originally Posted by twr7cx

Check the seals as they don't put padding in their box and one of mine was damaged from the pump hitting it.

You are right, I just checked mine and the bag has been damaged where the shaft of the pump was hitting it but I have been lucky, all the seals are OK. Sorry to drift off topic for a bit but I noticed the instruction card recommends Loctite 405 to hold the seals in place, however when I searched for it - no result. Loctite 406 comes up but that is basically super glue. Seems a bit brittle. I am more tempted to use an RTV silicone to hold the seals in place as the seal groove has a cast surface finish. What goo did you use to stick your seals in with?