Was about to post that if you were in Sydney I have a TD5 engine torn apart now and can likely sell some pieces to you if you need some.
All depends on what avenue you want to take I guess!
Printable View
Was about to post that if you were in Sydney I have a TD5 engine torn apart now and can likely sell some pieces to you if you need some.
All depends on what avenue you want to take I guess!
Get the head checked first..might be cheaper to rebuild it. ..mine cost 600 for re surface plus new valves n seals etc.
AMC make heads in China n Korea oo...eg Patrol TD42 heads which are fully assembled plus head bolts n VRS gasket set for 1500 delivered on F Bay!!!
We have one here made by AMC in Korea and looks very well made.
Feedback so far is they are okay..stronger than original with bigger cooling galleries and pre comps. New heads no longer available and 2nd hand are mostly cracked non repairable. ..so few options r available for TD42s nowadays.
So it looks like I'm going with a new head and no bottom end work.
My local trustworthy machine shop pressure tested the head and said they found a leak from the coolant passage under the No1 inlet valve seat
So for 1850.00 they sold me one of their new Chinese heads with a combination of my old valves and new LR valves fitted.
As for water damage to the bore,
#1 bore doesn't have the cross hatch pattern as I guess the water has taken that off. The engine guy said from my pictures the surface finish didn't matter, but to look for vertical lines in the bore from overheated pistons nipping up.
There are a few lines in #2 bore, but I suspect that's from when I overheated this in 2010 when the rad by pass hose snapped (which led to the previous time I had this head off at 185,000km).
It doesn't use oil at all even at 320,000 so i'm not going to worry about the bore.
As for a possible bent rod
I checked piston protrusion heights to see if I have a bent #1 rod from hydraulic lockup. Most pistons are consistently 0.37-0.38mm above the deck including No1. The only piston different was #2 which was 0.37mm on the front side but .031mm on the rear side which makes it about 2.5thou difference to the rest. The engine has been running fine it was just losing coolant and hydraulic locking overnight, so I'm gonna say my prayers and take the chance that my rods and bottom end are ok.
So MrsTd5 is out getting some Locitite 518 and I'm about to crawl under the Disco and change the sump gasket and oil pump bolt. Great way to spend annual leave!
Piston protrusion on the TD42 motor we r building atm is measured across the piston not along or front to back. Reason I guess is to eliminated errors from piston lash or wobble.
Your measurement variarions appear good enuf😎
So just to finish this thread off.
I fitted the chinese made head and it bolted on just fine.
It ran like a pig at first, but after fitting a long overdue replacement MAF sensor and resetting the cam timing in the correct manner it goes as good now as it ever has. MrsTd5 has gone from being scared it was too slow to being scared that its too fast, so that's a good direction to move in!
You can read about the flat spot and hard starting the improper cam timing caused here:
Td5 Flat spot on take off and hard to start cold since new head fitted
Have done about 300kms so far including a short country trip to Goolwa Beach and its all good thus far. No evidence of lack of power from any bent rods so it runs good for something that's done 320,000km and I assume she'll be good now for another 200,000km!
MrsTd5 has already started hunting for a D4 but she'll have to wait it seems.
Great news. I also had a cracked head in my Td5 and got it fixed when it was hydraulically locking overnight. New head and away it went also, no bent conrods etc.