Rick were those pads F&R? Sound like a great pad!Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
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Rick were those pads F&R? Sound like a great pad!Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Hey Simon, same compound F&R.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
They seem to work really well with the the TC too.
What a lot of people don't realise is that release is quite critical, almost as important as bite.
When track testing pads years ago the really aggressive high friction pads that worked well on cars with down force were really hard to modulate on cars with little to no down force.
These QFM's seem to work really smoothly with the TC.
DBA rotors and Bendix 4WD pads, working very well. They get a hiding from towing a fully laden car trailer and no issues at all.
Ok.... so what are the opinions on calipers....
I am about to re-do all 4 corners and expect to find calipers need work....
Buy the quality rebuild kits and new pistons from the UKQuote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDiscoMan
We had this come up on bros TD5.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDiscoMan
Very easy to rebuild.
Pistons themselves aren't massively expensive, and we could see that they had some surface rust while the pads were low, so new pistons were purchased.
Only problem we had with the pistons were that the seals supplied looked right, but were wrong. Wrong by about 0.5mm or so too big and had a hell of a time trying to get the pistons with seals into calipers.
Couldn't work out why for a while, as I said, seals looked the right size.
As a test, to confirm that the seals weren't the issue, installed new pistons with old seals, and went in fine. Head scratching, looked very closely at new seals and noted they didn't have the marking that the old seals had.
Went to the local LR supplies got a new set of genuine seals, which did have the markings on the rubber(green and white paint type marks), and went straight in without issue!
Huge Doh! moment.
I measured the thickness of the supplied seals relative to the old seals and the new genuine, and the non marked seals that came with the pistons were 0.2mm thicker(on the ring) than the genuine ones, making them about 0.5(ish) mm thicker.
So if you're unsure of the condition/history of the calipers, I'd recommend just to rebuild them. About an extra hours work using new, proper fitting, parts.
For me at least, it’s just the sliders that need work. On the front they can stick.
Ordered Yellow stuff all round.
DBA slotted front and standards rear... will let you know how it goes...
just a note THE D2A vin 3A on have different seals and piston part numbersQuote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Do they run bigger pistons in the calipers?Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares