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Thread: HELP................ FPR BOLT ISSUE

  1. #1
    southaussiematt Guest

    HELP................ FPR BOLT ISSUE

    Ok guys.

    Replacing the FPR today. Was able to remove it after a bit of swearing and gymnastics.

    Replaced what needed to be replaced and started the reinstall process.

    OK this is where I am now in trouble.

    Got the bolts in without issue.

    Tightened up top right and bottom bolt, however when tightening top left bolt It wouldnt tighten. Just kept turning in the hole.

    When I removed the bolt part of the thread came away from the mount as can be seen in the pic.

    Now obviously I can tighten the bolt so fuel now pours out when vehicle turned on (Yes I did try lol). Bessie is now grounded.

    What do I need to do to rectify this issue?
    IMG_20190817_124511.jpg

    Cheers guys.

    Matt

  2. #2
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    Maybe put an couple of wahses on the bolt so it uses the thread that's left and it makes the thread that usable shorter

  3. #3
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    You will possibly be able to use a longer bolt to access good thread deeper in the hole. But check depth of hole to ensure bolt doesnt bottom out before it tightens the FPR .

  4. #4
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    Helicoil
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Helicoil
    Yep. And what a wonderful place to be doing the helicoil thing...
    Cheers,
    Mark F...
    Vk3KW

    2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
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    197? Range Rover - gone
    1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
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  6. #6
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    Thread doctor.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #7
    southaussiematt Guest
    Thanks for the advice everyone.

    I ended up going with the longer bolt fix for the moment to get things going again.

    That has to be the worst ever item to replace... tell me there is nothing worse on the D2

    I also had issue with the lower bolt. Couldnt get to it from under the car and was a bugger to get to from the top of the vehicle. I hope I have tightened it enough. Will find out in the next few days I guess.

    Once again thank you for the advice.

    Cheers

    Matt

  8. #8
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    The lower bolt can be accessed from the wheel arch using a couple of extensions on your socket.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by southaussiematt View Post
    .....

    That has to be the worst ever item to replace ...

    I also had issue with the lower bolt. Couldnt get to it from under the car and was a bugger to get to from the top of the vehicle. I hope I have tightened it enough. Will find out in the next few days I guess.

    .....
    Quote Originally Posted by Xtreme View Post
    The lower bolt can be accessed from the wheel arch using a couple of extensions on your socket.
    This!
    I think I used 3/8th drive socket set as it made just a smidge easier than with the 1/2 drive tools, but either way, through the inner guard is easier.
    Some guys say they remove the inlet manifold, then it's walk in the park, but too much stuff to remove doing it that way.

    Quote Originally Posted by southaussiematt View Post
    .....

    ... tell me there is nothing worse on the D2
    Where to start!

    water pump! Legendary design work there.
    main oil filter. The spinny oil filter is easy as, but the screw on filter a total pain.
    Alternator not an easy job .. doable, but could have been designed better(or at least higher up in the scheme of things).

    But in D2 terms, nothing beats the location of the coil packs on the V8 models.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  10. #10
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    that will helicoil really easily.

    its soft ally, its stripped out to so close to the nominal diameter for the helicoil tap that you wont need to drill it

    carefully wind in the helicoil using a 1/4inch drive version of the tap (or use adaptors so you can use a 1/4 inch drive) and wind it in with a 1/4 inch ratchet.

    go in with plenty of thread cutting lube or light machine oil to keep the swarf under control then wind in the helicoil.

    ensure 2 things .

    1. you capture the tang once you break it off
    2. the helicoil is wound in at least 1/2 turn lower than the mounting face.

    use 2.5D size helicoils.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
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