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Thread: Auto box temp warning light

  1. #1
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    Auto box temp warning light

    Hi All,

    Just have a small niggling issue (hopefully not a sign of expensive repairs to come).

    I live in NE Vic and as a result do a lot of pretty twisty and hilly driving. Last summer climbing up to Hotham heights on the asphalt I had the red warning light come on about halfway up. Slowed down, it turned off and I backed right off for the rest of the ascent. No issues with gearchanges or lack of drive etc.

    The car has had a plethora of other issues since then but is now back as a weekender.

    Climbing up an easy 2wd accessible-4wd recommended route for a hike this weekend in high range and had the same issue. I realised I was probably being a bit lazy being in D but speeds were around 20-40km/h. Stopped and went into low range, light went out after about 10 seconds and had no more issues.

    I've read a bit about old sensors being dodgy but the light definitely comes on in high trans pressure situations rather than randomly. It has never happened during level or downhill driving. Any clues of easy stuff to look into? Should I be adjusting my driving to compensate? Or do I start putting even more money aside...

    2000 TD5, 228000kms, new AMC head, trans fluid changed in the last 6 weeks with new filter.

    Cheers,
    James

  2. #2
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    I think it will pay to get down to the ATF cooler, which will be a royal pain and make sure the radiator packs are all cleared of mud. When you go through mud the radiators fill up and block.

    Here is what caused my problems despite hosing out the radiators after mud. My more permanent solution was to fit an additional ATF cooler which was in series with the factory ATF cooler, and located up high and in an accessable location for cleaning.

    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  3. #3
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    What Slunnie says.

    But as alternative could be a failing temp sender.
    My D1 did this a little while ago.
    Was up near Lovell's Hut, going up a not too steep climb, and my trans temp light came on too.
    Trans lines were normal hot, but not 100°C hot. Could place hand on them for a sec or two .. maybe 70-80°C type hot.
    Have an IR temp gun, pointed at all things trans related, and highest temp reading was high 60's.
    Strange side point tho .. at some point the metal trans lines to and from it's cooler had got hot, as it melted the plastic deflector panel the sit under, but not this time, and the plastic panel was hardly warm to touch.
    Anyhow, took it easy and light went out. Stopped for a short break(light was off coming to said rest spot), and on startup, the trans temp light came back on.
    Thought maybe some heat soak, but then it played up a little along the way .. and for the next month or so. Never any sign that trans was actually hot.
    Ordered a new tempo switch .. problem solved.

    Also have you checked trans fluid level and colour too .. maybe even better get it serviced(DIY or get someone to do it).
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  4. #4
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    Have to agree with both answers here.

    Adding a second cooler has the added advantage of increasing the amount of oil, which helps with cooling. They don't really carry enough oil for what they are asked to do. The ZF 4HP22/4 was really an auto for road cars. BMW 7s for example. A second cooler... I've even seen one with a sump with "wings" ( can't think of a better term ) welded on to increase capacity.

    I had the light come on, and it went into limp home mode a couple of times after that. Get it serviced. I didn't, and mine failed a couple of months later. I can't prove a connection, but my gut tells me... The A clutch seems to be fragile, and it's a show stopper.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    The old trans fluid when I changed it recently was still red but with a slightly brown tinge. A little bit of pastey grey sludge around filter and drain plug, not much at all though and I'm not sure when it was last replaced. I got about 500ml more back into the system than what came out.

    Sounds like a double check of fluid level, sensor replacement, cooler clean and investigate secondary cooling is the plan for now.

  6. #6
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    Run a full syn trans fluid if you can, too.
    It will drop fluid temps slightly and resist oxidation a lot better than the mineral based fluids
    CastrolTransmax Z, Penrite FS ATF, etc

  7. #7
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    Heres mine,, plus a tricky derale thermostat
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Heres mine,, plus a tricky derale thermostat
    Mine is in the same spot. Its a good spot for the additional ATF cooler.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  9. #9
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    The cooler location is the weak point of the Td5’s automatic transmission setup. The placement sandwiched around the intercooler, radiator and air conditioning evaporator is a recipe for mud sandwiches and over heating. To resolve, as Slunnie has pointed out, you need to clean up the cooler and ideally instal and additional cooler too (in a location that is easier to clean and perhaps less likely to get as dirty too).

    What concerns me about your post is that it happened last Summer, yet you’ve mentioned no maintenance or action taken since - rather it seems that you’ve just kept driving. If the temperature light came on then your transmission oil was overheated - you should have drained and replaced it as soon as possible. To keep driving on it continues to risk damage to your transmission and the broken down oil is more susceptible to overheating again (as has happened).
    To give you some perspective, Ashcroft Transmissions in the UK, who are one of the leading rebuilder of these ZF transmissions for the Land Rovers suggest that the factory fitted temperature sensor is set for far too high and that at the temperatures that trigger it the warning light, irreversible internal breakdown has already commenced inside your transmission. For more on the topic read Transmission Oil

    EDIT: just read in your subsequent post that you have changed the fluid. Make sure the correct fluid is going in and a full synthetic type.
    Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    The cooler location is the weak point of the Td5’s automatic transmission setup. The placement sandwiched around the intercooler, radiator and air conditioning evaporator is a recipe for mud sandwiches and over heating. To resolve, as Slunnie has pointed out, you need to clean up the cooler and ideally instal and additional cooler too (in a location that is easier to clean and perhaps less likely to get as dirty too).

    What concerns me about your post is that it happened last Summer, yet you’ve mentioned no maintenance or action taken since - rather it seems that you’ve just kept driving. If the temperature light came on then your transmission oil was overheated - you should have drained and replaced it as soon as possible. To keep driving on it continues to risk damage to your transmission and the broken down oil is more susceptible to overheating again (as has happened).
    To give you some perspective, Ashcroft Transmissions in the UK, who are one of the leading rebuilder of these ZF transmissions for the Land Rovers suggest that the factory fitted temperature sensor is set for far too high and that at the temperatures that trigger it the warning light, irreversible internal breakdown has already commenced inside your transmission. For more on the topic read Transmission Oil

    EDIT: just read in your subsequent post that you have changed the fluid. Make sure the correct fluid is going in and a full synthetic type.
    And here is the celcius temp version.
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    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

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