Thread: D2 TD5 power steering pump seizure.

Good share Bob. Very lucky indeed. I recall my PS pump failed at similar kms (back when I had a D2).

After 400,000 kms you do start to wonder what else will reach end of life.

I had a kind of similar experience with my Rodeo(V6).
Was working as a courier, turned left, heard a loud groan, steering dead hard. Ah!
Checked fluid, all OK, just no power for left turns .. only right turns.
Not too much of a worry as a couriers life seemed to be predominantly doing u turns to go back for the work they'd just passed!

Looked into getting it fixed, from memory in the wayyy too hard to get at basket, and paying to get it done was going to be $s I didn't want to spend.
This was at 600-ish K klms tho .. and I got rid of it a few months later.

A few years back when I got my D2(V8) project, the power steer pump made groan noises, so I pulled and rebuilt prior to getting it ready for the road. Silky smooth henceforth.
Still not close to being ready tho .. $s have dried up for now.

Lots to like about the modern serpentine belt system overall .. but in your situation there's a good argument for the old days of multiple belts doing essential and non essential stuff too tho.

Just think, you might have had ACE as well.. On mine it was the alternator. Made very short work of the belt. Still, you should have had sufficient vacuum for about three decent brake applications before "minimal braking" set in. I'd check hoses and check valves in the brake vacuum system for minor leaks. You did say 400,000 didn't you?

Funny how we just expect things to just keep working though. recently my plain jane BA falcon went nuts. Overheating, I mean top of the gauge in seconds, no drive, RACV tow truck... Split the ( plastic ) tank between the coolant and auto fluid in the rad. Extremely common, apparently. New rad is the fix, but try flushing the trans to get all the watery oil out of the thing. Car has 205, 000 on it. I've read ( now ) that replacing the rad at around 150,000 is recommended.

Maybe it's time we started a list of things that should be changed at XXXKM. We all know about timing belts, but there are many others we tend to change only when they break.

Originally Posted by johntins

Maybe it's time we started a list of things that should be changed at XXXKM. We all know about timing belts, but there are many others we tend to change only when they break.

John, you have said a few good things over the years, but this is the best!!!!

Plus between 400-500K you start hitting repeats and replacing things second time around. I kept mine up to 483K and recall hitting the second round replacements on many small components.

Above 400K I would also expect to have replaced the following:

Radiator
Water Pump
Fuel Pump
Power Steering Pump
Injection Harness (at least twice)
Injector Washers
Fuel Pressure Regulator (possibly twice)
Alternator
Wheel Bearings
Clutch
Harmonic Balancer
Plus most of the instrument senders.

The engine, gearbox/transfer box, and diffs should all make it to 500K, but my gearbox did fail at 483K. The new owner then also rebuilt the motor.

Well, the old pump is out. An easy job made more difficult by arthritic fingers and just not having easy access . And also that the pump is 20 years old. The pump hasn't seized, but the seal and bearing at the outside end look like the culprits. The bearing has gone, I'm thinking, and ripped the seal, dumping most of the fluid. It's a bit lumpy the bearing. I'm thinking at temperature it would probably bind. Thankfully the water pump coupling turns easy with no lateral movement, so hopefully not that end. I always do an inspection of the vehicle top to bottom, when I do an oil change, and feel confident the brake system is up to spec. Every 20,000 kms I remove the wheels and check the cylinders etc , measure the discs, do a bit of touchy feely. The Haynes manual has a chapter on routine maintenance and servicing, I use it as a guide, don't stick to it . I have been a bit lazy lately, but normally when the drive belt is removed I regrease the idler bearings [ don't know if any one checks, but brand new bearings have stuff all grease in them.] I always re tension the exhaust manifold every oil change, you'd be surprised how loose the rear manifold bolts are some times. I love my D2, but I can't help feeling Land Rovers are a young mans game.

Originally Posted by bob10

I love my D2, but I can't help feeling Land Rovers are a young mans game.

Well they certainly keep you mentally and physically active, and of course part of a great community of like minded owners.

But when the recovery time for the body exceeds the repair time, it can be hard to keep motivated.

At least with the D2 this is probably the last of the Discos that can be worked on with relative ease.

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Well they certainly keep you mentally and physically active, and of course part of a great community of like minded owners.

But when the recovery time for the body exceeds the repair time, it can be hard to keep motivated.

At least with the D2 this is probably the last of the Discos that can be worked on with relative ease.

Without RAVE, I would be totally lost. In the beginning, getting my head around the coolant system was like learning a new language. And then I replaced every hose , 'nuff said. But, I did find out the secret hose could be blanked off. Bonus!. I would not remove/ work on the gear box or transfer case, or attempt to fit & shim an Ashcroft ATB LSD, left that to the experts. I did replace engine mounts, exhaust manifold [ did the grinding trick] replaced the starter motor , 4 brake discs and pads [ I found over time, and after driving thru mud/ creeks the guide pins tended to get jammed with gunk, so that was a look and see job.] Rear hub seal [ borrowed a truckie mate's torque multiplier for that one, other wise the torque value would have been determined by the length of water pipe I could find. ] replaced starter motor , fitted new radiator when the hoses were replaced , cleaned the intercooler, at the same time. Fitted a MANTEC snorkel [ getting the courage to cut a hole in the front panel took a bit.] Fitted APT rock sliders and steering guard, steel rear bar, electrical thingy near the battery to run a second battery in the back in a battery box, small drawer, fridge slide , radio & aerial, welltempered temp sensor [ a must have IMO] . Phew, a walk down memory lane. Well, that's motivated me to go down and fit the new power steering pump , and I just know it will line up perfectly with the water pump drive [ what could possibly go wrong ] It really is a sense of achievement when a plan comes together on a Land Rover, The secret is to walk away and put the kettle on when frustration sets in. While I'm at it if any one knows where I can get another centre console, I could do that job while the D2 has a rest. Here we go again.