Thread: Changing engine mounts

you don't actually need to use crane. its a bit fiddley, but it can be done using floor jack and block of wood. undo engine mount bolts to chassis and reverse bolts so they point down. undo top nut on side you're changing. jack up engine sump ( left side / right side ) . there's enough flex to change one at a time.

I read on other threads to lift on sump with block of wood. Is that correct? Will sump strong enough?

Originally Posted by fourteen8

I read on other threads to lift on sump with block of wood. Is that correct? Will sump strong enough?

i've done it several times without any problems. position wood block under the side you're changing. pump up jack gently until enough of a gap to manouver mount in/out. lower very slowly. position bolts in holes " BEFORE" engine is down ,to position mount correctly. done deal. :-)

Using an engine crane , there are two lift points , one at the back RH above the FPR and one on the LH front.
You have to lift quite a way.
remove the fan shroud and preferably fan.
If the mounts have not been changed before the nut will be to the top of the bolt. I found that putting the nut on the bottom was much easier to do up with some long extensions..
Regards PhilipA

Have a look at this.
Replacing D2 TD5 engine mounts - how to.
I followed these instructions, except I lifted the engine up from the centre. A block of wood on the sump is fine. And I replced the bolts with the nut on the bottom, just in case the nut comes loose. Seems logical to me.
This took me and a mate about 4 hours, we took our time had a couple of coffees, no need to rush.
Buy genuine mounts. I ordered mine from island 4x4 on a Friday, they arrived on the following Tuesday. Even with a very expensive DHL courier charge, they where still cheaper than buying locally. That could have changed.

Just changed mounts on Td5.
Raised engine by using block of wood and jack, and I had taken off the water hoses and crossover pipe as was going to change them as well.
I figured there would be less things being "stretched" during engine lift with hoses undone anyway.

PROBLEM.
After having mounts back in, hoses on and went to start, I just get all dash lights (except for glo coil light, and nil ignition to starter) and hazards flashing.
The hazards keep flashing after key turned off. Disconnect battery, they stay off if battery then re-connected

Anybody know if there is a connection/plug that suffers or becomes disconnected during engine lift, which might account for no start power??

There's a button or switch in the engine bay. I think it switches of the ignition if there is an accident. It may have tripped it. From memory it is against the firewall on the passenger side. Try resetting it.

Thanks SPROVER for the heads up on that !@#$%ing switch.
Found that "switch", pressed the top lightly and car starts. (Lovely) Sparkie had heard of the switches, but never encountered one, so would have been there for hours otherwise.
The switch is on firewall about where second battery mounts.
Had to remove second battery to exit old mount, and in process must have touched the top of switch.
Have been told that these switchs can be sensitive to jolts and bumps (from bottoming in gullies etc), so car can suddenly stop and sit there with hazards going.