New to D2 heater issues

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Originally Posted by discorevy

If you've had oil in the cooling system at one point ( previous faulty oil cooler) it will collect at the metal heater pipes , you will need to remove the heater hoses and flush .
They are not difficult to bleed if done right........unless there's a problem.
Make sure you have coolant coming out the telltale just below the radiator cap and no bubbles coming back through the expansion tank

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I ran a flushing solution through the system, as per bottle instructions, then flushed the system back through the heater core both ways then filled the system ran it up to temp, short drive then drain again about 6 times in all.

will check for the tell tail tomorrow, will any minor bubbles pruge themselves out after a few hot cold cycles?

B

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Big B

I ran a flushing solution through the system, as per bottle instructions, then flushed the system back through the heater core both ways then filled the system ran it up to temp, short drive then drain again about 6 times in all.

will check for the tell tail tomorrow, will any minor bubbles pruge themselves out after a few hot cold cycles?

B

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If the bubbles don't purge of their own accord you will hear gurgling in the dash, I found the engine needed to be "pulsed" to get rid of them. So held at say 2000rpm then stopped for a few seconds then started again, I actually was used to do it while driving on straight deserted roads.

If the heater core is hot, as stated by the OP "Too hot to touch" then there is nothing wrong with the coolant flow. BTW, the coolant always flows through the heater core, the temp is set by the position of the flap/paddles, in the heater box. It seems that this is the problem.

Ok so checked yesterday and found coolant on the concrete, tracked down to a pin hole in the front lower thermostat hose, ( might be why I could not fully bleed?).
Also talked to previous owner and he was told the small diameter hose from bottom or radiator tends to sludge up and cause heater issues?????

So an order for a full set of thermostat hoses is on the cards.
Can that lower hose be replaced with a length of ortac or is a genuine shaped one a must?

thanks again

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bohica

If the heater core is hot, as stated by the OP "Too hot to touch" then there is nothing wrong with the coolant flow. BTW, the coolant always flows through the heater core, the temp is set by the position of the flap/paddles, in the heater box. It seems that this is the problem.

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yes that’s what I thought, have visually checked the movement ( fuse box cover under steering column) and the hot cold actuator appeared to go through full movement freely, does the flap have a sealing foam/rubber? Does that cause issues?

B

Have found the minor leak on the lower front thermostat hose, so have pulled it all apart, the hose has multiple minor splits. While in there checked the flow to the right lower 2 hoses 20mmish and I have no flow on the top and a trickle on the bottom one. Is this right???

B

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Big B

Have found the minor leak on the lower front thermostat hose, so have pulled it all apart, the hose has multiple minor splits. While in there checked the flow to the right lower 2 hoses 20mmish and I have no flow on the top and a trickle on the bottom one. Is this right???

B

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Re the right lower hoses - the flow you see could be correct depending on what specification radiator that is installed. I have attached the relevant page of a service bulletin (originally from Mario at Roverlord) that will explain ..... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5553f6f560.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onebob

Re the right lower hoses - the flow you see could be correct depending on what specification radiator that is installed. I have attached the relevant page of a service bulletin (originally from Mario at Roverlord) that will explain ..... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5553f6f560.jpg

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Thanks for that will check it out when I get back home next week.