Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
I've done this for my D2. It will be a 4 digit code starting with a 7. Just a phone call.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
I've done this for my D2. It will be a 4 digit code starting with a 7. Just a phone call.
Just trying to get my head around ordering a new key for my MY03 Discovery 2.
Currently only have 1 key (a remote locking fob version) and it is dated 2012 inside, so obviously there's been a few keys lost on this car previously!
I've ordered one off eBay on this link but it doesn't have the yellow internals (comparison below - Original is on left):
Attachment 174875 Attachment 174876
Am I correct in saying that if I get ANY Disco 2 key (from a wreckers, i.e off a previous car) that as long as I have the 6-digit code inside it, i can reprogram using Nanocom?
I plan to get 2 new keys.. One with a fob and one that's just to open the doors and start using the EKA (this will live at home). I'll use a blank key-blade for this one, no immobiliser. Apparently I can use a SILKA NE27 blank (as per a different key thread). I can get the key code from Land Rover although I think already have it, a previous owner has written a load of codes in the owner's manual.
I've searched a lot but most of the key info is a bit disjointed.
This key looks promising as well if I wanted to order new.. The one posted earlier in this thread is sold out but this looks like the same key (a genuine Valeo one):
LAND ROVER Key Discovery 2 Key complete Remote Key Ready for programming 433mhz | eBay
You can get the EKA code via the nanocom and change it too. Without the transponder chip in the key, the ignition won't turn off the immobiliser when you insert the key into it. Instead you need to press a key on the fob within 30 seconds of starting.
You can use the nanocom to disable the ignition immobiliser to bypass this requirement. I have a different fobless key for my ignition (due to it being replaced) than the door/fob. I just leave this in the ignition all the time and use the fob as a poor man's keyless start.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmagnet
Okay - I’ll ask [emoji16]
How does the fob alone work as a keyless start [emoji848]
poor man's, lol. you don't have to insert the key in the ignition, just turn it.
Reefmagnet, thanks for the advice on the EKA. I need to find this as well, i'll keep it safe in case we need it for the new spare key.. I just went to an auto locksmith and had a new blade re-cut from one of his blanks. Cost $13.
He confirmed to me that cost to recode a working remote locking key fob (if I provide one) would be $100.
So by the looks of it total cost get another remote key coded and cut will cost $70 for the key (eBay link above), $100 for the fob coding.
$170 for a key!
If anyone's around next week in Melbourne that wants some Nanocom beer money please can you code my key? [bighmmm][bigsad]
Or if anyone's selling a Nanocom let me know [smilebigeye]
That was the main reason I purchased the Nanocom ASAP after buying the car. EKA code not known and a single battered fob. Now have a custom EKA that I'll remember if stuck out in the bush and 3 sets of keys. Used it for heaps more since then, too. $$$ but well worth it, I reckon. If you check the Nanocom thread I think there's a 20% discount running at the moment with a bulk buy deal (I should have held out [bawl])
Oops
….. Huh!Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmagnet
From your earlier post [QUOTE…]I just leave this in the ignition all the time and use the fob as a poor man's keyless start.[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
To expand the explanation. The ignition key is a fobless key. The door key includes the fob. The ignition key never leaves the ignition barrel. The ignition key can not start the car unless the car has had the immobilser deactivated via fob activation.
Imagine the start/stop push button being replaced by a rotary switch. The key in the ignition barrel is the rotary switch and it stays there. This means you fob unlock, throw fob in pocket and turn the rotary switch aka ignition key. Little bit more work than true push button hence the "poor man's" tag. I wouldn't recommend this of course unless you have a different key code between the ignition and doors, like I have.
