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Thread: A replacement D2 Td5 auto

  1. #1
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    A replacement D2 Td5 auto

    Since the engine of my manual Td5 decided to eat itself I've been on the hunt for a replacement. A distant aquaintance has offered me a 2002 Td5 auto for a very keen price and I've been driving it for a week. So far it seems to be good apart from two gearbox related niggles and a leaking joint between the exhaust manifold and the turbo (which should be easily fixed) I think).

    1. It won't engage any drive, forward or reverse, until it's been idling for about 30 seconds which concerns me a little.

    2. The larger concern is what could be described as a slipping lockup clutch. It locks up OK but light extra throttle causes the revs to increase by a couple of hundred or so without a corresponding increase in road speed and when the throttle is returned to its original setting those 200 or so revs drop off with no change in road speed. From what I've read it should stay locked solidly until the lockup is released and the the revs will climb by a fair bit.
    From what I've read this may be cured by an oil and filter change but it may also be caused by other, more serious problems.
    Advice please. I'd really hate to get what seems like a good D2 only to be faced by a hefty gearbox bill.
    Cheers,
    Mark F...
    Vk3KW

    2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
    2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
    197? Range Rover - gone
    1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
    Outback Campers Sturt
    http://jandmf.com

  2. #2
    discorevy is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Mark
    It's very likely the clutch in the torque converter , the debris will have travelled through the auto ,more than likely scoring the trans oil pump , causing leak back, cavitation and the delay for drive, unfortunately a rebuild of both will be required.
    Trans servicing would have avoided the issue

  3. #3
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    Craig, would low fluid level give similar symptoms or would that just result in flare?

  4. #4
    discorevy is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    If there's enough fluid to get it to lock up speed there should be enough pressure to keep the TC clutch from slipping, but always worth checking fluid level.
    In theory ( though I've never seen it personally ) if the filter was blocked it might cause similar issues but yes, would probably flare between gears as well as temp light coming on

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    Mark
    It's very likely the clutch in the torque converter , the debris will have travelled through the auto ,more than likely scoring the trans oil pump , causing leak back, cavitation and the delay for drive, unfortunately a rebuild of both will be required.
    Trans servicing would have avoided the issue
    That's pretty much what I didn't want to hear. I admit I was a bit worried when I saw the electric brake controller and an anderson plug.
    It's a pity really - the car has all the fruit (SLS, ACE, etc.) and the gearbox is silky smooth and changes without flare or thumps. The price is right too - easily affordable (our limit is very low dammit I wish I could spend 5 or 6k). It's just the two niggles that I have. Damn.
    The added factor is that I have never driven an auto D2 so don’t really know what to expect.
    Cheers,
    Mark F...
    Vk3KW

    2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
    2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
    197? Range Rover - gone
    1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
    Outback Campers Sturt
    http://jandmf.com

  6. #6
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    Swap the egine and the fruit?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #7
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    Got one !!! AND it was affordable too.

    D2 with ACE, 7 seats CD stacker, leather and electric heated seats, ARB bull bar, decent light bar, etc.

    The auto in this one behaves differently compared to the one I first tested and has been pronounced in good condition by an auto specialist who's familiar with Disco's. When I asked about towing a ~2T camper in hilly country he said to just "stick it in sport mode third and go for it - it'll figure out what to do".
    I asked him to change the transmission oil and filter just so I can be sure. After he'd done it he assured me that doing it was a waste of money but I say it provides peace of mind.

    The only roadworthy items to be rectfied are a new windscreen and wiper blades.

    The only problem I have with it is that someone in the past has removed the SLS. Compressor, air bags, tubing, height sensors and all. Bugger. They did leave the dash switch and put air helpers in the rear springs though.

    We took it for a run up to Walhalla from Moe and back today. It's a LOT different to my old one. LOTS quieter, ACE makes it sit nice and flat, it has a much better radio too.

    I have to get used to driving my very first auto - so different to a manual. I suppose I'll eventually stop reaching for the gear stick and probing around for a clutch pedal.

    Once I get the RWC and rego thing done tomorrow morning I'll change the oil and all its filters and then I'll be happy.
    Cheers,
    Mark F...
    Vk3KW

    2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
    2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
    197? Range Rover - gone
    1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
    Outback Campers Sturt
    http://jandmf.com

  8. #8
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    You'll get used to the auto, although I still nearly put myself through the windscreen when trying to dip the clutch coming to a stop occasionally....A replacement D2 Td5 autoA replacement D2 Td5 auto

    I'm jumping from a manual to auto each day and left foot brake the auto and right foot the manual, too.

  9. #9
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    Treat the auto right and it will treat you right.

    Mine now has 210KK on it with no problems.

    However I use Castrol Transmax Z with changes every couple of years, say 30KK.

    When towing I make sure that whenever possible it is in lockup in 3rd and 4th.

    I generally drive in third lockup when driving in 70K zones.( the manual actually advises this)

    I do not use sports mode as I am pretty sure that the transmission drops out of lockup sooner than normal mode. I recently towed my daughters say 1.2tonne camper and I noted it dropped out of lock up the Hawkesbury hill on the M1 northbound when I usually remain in lock 4th. The trailer is heavier than mine however. I have tried sport mode from time to time and do not like it for that reason.
    Regards PhilipA

  10. #10
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    The auto will definitely drop out of lock sooner when in sport mode, it will also change into higher gears later.

    When towing you really need to make sure the auto is locked most of the time otherwise too much heat will be created.

    Ashcroft engineering has a good right up about this.

    Along with this, if towing heavy loads, an extra, or bigger auto cooler is needed, definitely...

    Cheers
    James

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