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Thread: D2 rattle td5

  1. #1
    Desmond Guest

    D2 rattle td5

    Hi all
    My Td5 rattles when yo pull away hard. No smoke runs nice's just has this rattle.
    Had a new injector loom.

    Thanks Des

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Mine has just started this to.
    Im hoping muffler has come apart inside.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    2150 rpm?

    If so it'll be parking brake shoes/drum

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    "rattle" on TD5

    Im new to TD5, but found I had a "rattle" (tinny) noise when pulling off.
    Figured it was something perhaps to do with vibration from side steps, or (maybe) some muffler loose inside issue.
    Called in to Rovertec Perth to get some service advice and mentioned that I had this "tinny" rattle when pulling off.
    Right off, Kevin (Falconbridge) suggested likely exhaust flange and got me to pull bonnet, where he pointed to blow on gasket about number 1 exhaust port.
    In my case, broken stud/warped manifold and the rattle was the metal gasket vibrating.
    Maybe your rattle is coming from exhaust manifold. (??)

  5. #5
    jamall007 Guest

    same thing here

    I've had that tinny rattle for going on a year now too. In my quest to fix it I discovered two snapped studs and a warped exhaust manifold which I replaced 6 months ago, but apparently that was unrelated and it still sounds like a shopping bag full of crushed aluminium cans in an Iranian centrifuge between about 2000rpm and 2500rpm. I've packed the brake rotor stone guards with rubber stoppers, riveted the turbo heat shield to a rigid steel bar, and tightened every nut and bolt in the engine bay, but the noise keeps getting gradually worse! Is there an easy way to see if its something loose inside the muffler? I don't have the intermediate silence anymore so it would have to be the rear unit...

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamall007 View Post
    I've had that tinny rattle for going on a year now too. In my quest to fix it I discovered two snapped studs and a warped exhaust manifold which I replaced 6 months ago, but apparently that was unrelated and it still sounds like a shopping bag full of crushed aluminium cans in an Iranian centrifuge between about 2000rpm and 2500rpm. I've packed the brake rotor stone guards with rubber stoppers, riveted the turbo heat shield to a rigid steel bar, and tightened every nut and bolt in the engine bay, but the noise keeps getting gradually worse! Is there an easy way to see if its something loose inside the muffler? I don't have the intermediate silence anymore so it would have to be the rear unit...

    Probably hand brake rattle as Rick posted in your case.
    Try lifting the hand brake gently while the rattle is happening to see if it goes away

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW SW Slopes
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    My D2a had a bellows type flexible joint in the exhaust just below the turbo which must have stretched as it produced an annoying rattle. The source was confirmed by the absence of rattle when the exhaust was lifted by hand from below the joint. I replaced it with a mesh type flexible joint - rattle gone!
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  8. #8
    jamall007 Guest

    Nailed it rick130 and discorevy!

    It was just as you described, accelerating through 2000 - 2500 rpm I pulled the handbrake lever and the rattling stopped. Doing that just once seems to stop it from happening again for a minute or two. I also noticed that I was able to pull the handbrake lever through most of its arc before feeling any tension at all so I'm guessing this may be related. Is it usually just a matter of adjustment to fix the rattle or do the shoes eventually wear out and need replacing?

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Adjust the parking brake first, if that doesnt fix it there's a few little mods to the backing plate, but a simple adjustment fixed mine when I picked the car up nearly three years ago

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    I posted photos of mine after about 140KK and the backing plate had deep indentations on the pads where the brake shoes sit and the shoes were worn about 2MM at the same place.
    It's worse if your intermediate shaft is leaking and oil flows down the cable.
    Fix was to weld up the backing plate or a new plate and new linings.
    Its still pretty quiet at 210Kk.
    LR do a kit with stronger springs but I couldn't compress them on after I had fixed the shoes and backing plate. IMHO the stronger springs are a band aid and the only long term fix is to replace.
    Regards PhilipA

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