part number for 10MM studs
	
	
		Have been muddling along replacing warped TD5 manifold.
Muddling along because my real tools are 2000k's away in my workshop and there were broken studs, rounded off nuts and even AF bolts screwed into metric holes on other parts that had to be removed.
Was sold a set of 10MM studs (with flanged nuts).
8 x10mm and 2x8mm studs and nuts in PKT, as there is evidently not enough meat on the middle exhaust port to accommodate replacing centre studs with 10mm.
They are a BritPart Package part TE110051L   Googled that number with "stud" as prefix and sellers show up
I note the earlier comment on enlarging the manifold bolt holes to allow expansion, seems I might have inadvertantly achieved that because with having to drill and extract broken studs, I didn't exactly get the replacement studs to line up like originals. My solution was to enlarge the manifold holes, so maybe I have got lucky. 
Of course now there might not be enough meat around the bolt holes and the manifold may break as it tries to warp.
	 
	
	
	
		RE EGT's  and ceramic coating in manifold.
	
	
		Will likely look to ceramic coating of manifold and see a mate who does cylinder heads and porting to see what he reckons about altering manifold.
Still wondering about SS extractors, but enlarge the bolt holes (to allow for metal expansion) and ceramic coat them as well to assist with heat. (Will put that down for alater day.)
Have checked with 3" exhaust manufacturers (Genie), they report 2.5" until flexible section then thay expand to 3" on other side of flexible.
My service person reckons no need for full 3" system, just remove CAT and big muffler and replace with free flow pipe and remap ECU. 
Reckons IC is good enough for that level of modification.
I just want it to pull better and run cooler.
I will get an EGT guage installed so I can see what is going on with temp. 
I often have to do long hot runs (10-12 hours in 40C+) and it may just get hot from that alone, and still require a bigger exhaust if that cools things.
I have a madman engine and trans temp monitor on other TD5 and that is very helpful.
	Quote:
	
		
		
			
				Originally Posted by 
PhilipA
				
			 
			I think that an EGT gauge is the most important gauge for a modified TD5. A boost gauge is helpful if you want to set and  control boost above 15PSI.
Mine is fitted at the dimple on the exhaust mainfold just in front of the turbo.
I think it cost about $120 for the ceramic coating but I also think that it was a cheap price done in Wyong by Wyong Powder coaters.
The flatting of the manifold cost $100  and I dewebbed it and elongated the holes myself.
So far 40KK and no problems. I also fitted Mercedes studs with belleville washers .
The ceramic coating keeps the heat in the manifold and insulates the manifold from the exhaust gasses. It is primarily a reliability thing.
The EGT gauge is not just to know what is happening. It is a primary management device. when you have a modified motor you tend to drive by it up hills while towing. Even with no mods I think the EGTs would be excessive if you drove flat to the floor in a high gear. This was reinforced to me recently when I towed my daughter's camping trailer up a steep hill. the car was pulling well in locked third but the EGTs flew up to 750. I changed back to second and eased off and they dropped to 650.
Regards PhilipA