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Thread: Head Gasket on TD5

  1. #21
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    Ok noted for next Time

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    The blocks are pretty safe from cooling system damage but with that much corrosion to the head I'd be tempted to pull the engine and redo all the plugs seals and fittings.
    Makes a lot of sense to do while everythings off. Can see some corrosion but doesn't look as bad as the head. Have attached pics below. Thoughts?

    IMG_3015.jpgIMG_3603.jpgIMG_5981.jpg

  3. #23
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    Hi Jon, if by trans service kit you mean oil and filter change on auto transmission. If oil comes out black it means it hasn't been regularly serviced and unless you can get history on the unit you might buy yourself a whole lot of trouble sooner than you need to if you proceed with filter. There's several threads on it. Make sure you read these (as below) before proceeding. Cheers, Mort2
    td5 auto trans question

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    PM Roverlord Off Road Spares for parts, he knows his onions and doesn't purvey rubbish. He's also handy to you.
    PM gets a discount over the eBay store prices.

    A customer wanted to pay me $25 more!
    nice one thank you, parts list is starting to look like a novel

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonharper View Post
    Makes a lot of sense to do while everythings off. Can see some corrosion but doesn't look as bad as the head. Have attached pics below. Thoughts?

    IMG_3015.jpgIMG_3603.jpgIMG_5981.jpg
    Ive seen worse...

    in your case I would be very tempted to go down to a gunshop and get yourself a set of chamber brushes for a 303 and 12 gauge a set of pull rods turn them into drill attachements and have at getting the loose scale out and off with them using watered down soluable oil as a flushing agent/lube/coolant.

    bottle brushes also work at getting the really loose stuff off but dont last as well.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Ive seen worse...

    in your case I would be very tempted to go down to a gunshop and get yourself a set of chamber brushes for a 303 and 12 gauge a set of pull rods turn them into drill attachements and have at getting the loose scale out and off with them using watered down soluable oil as a flushing agent/lube/coolant.

    bottle brushes also work at getting the really loose stuff off but dont last as well.
    Genuis. I'm on it.

  7. #27
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    If you need head gaskets and head bolts let me know, I have a set surplus to my requirements.

    Ian
    Bittern

  8. #28
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    I recently had to have my TD5 head skimmed.

    I wasn't convinced that setting the injector bump stops by eye was the best method so after a bit of research and much googling, I came across this:
    Td5 Injector bump adjustment

    I looked for the marks, they are there, just very lightly etched so use a good torch.
    Once I found them, easy peasy. The cam is even marked in firing order, not numerical order so only need one revolution to do the injector timing!

    As others have said, I used my old head bolts to confirm the threads were clean and not fouled. I was happy once I could screw the old bolts in and out by hand without any graunching.

    I didn't use an angle gauge per se either. I scribed datum (angle) lines on the socket and after the initial bolt torque, scribed 0 degree marks on each bolt and the head. More work probably and a little finicky, but then I only had to tension to the angles marked on the socket.

    Hope it helps.

    Cheers
    Ralph

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph View Post
    I didn't use an angle gauge per se either. I scribed datum (angle) lines on the socket and after the initial bolt torque, scribed 0 degree marks on each bolt and the head. More work probably and a little finicky, but then I only had to tension to the angles marked on the socket.
    thats how I do it

    AA Workshop Basics

    post 13 + 14
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #30
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    Well thank you Ralph.
    I learned something from this thread.
    I never thought to look for etchings on the cam, just turned over until the heel of the cam.
    Hopefully I will not again have to replace my washers but I will file away that info in the grey matter, if the Louis Bodies don't get me first.

    Regards PhilipA

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