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Thread: Fuel pump electrical connector?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    492
    Thanks - do you mean check it for leaks or check the mesh filter that is behind it?

    I don't have the ability to check fuel pressure so can't really check if the FPR is "working" or not?



    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Check the fuel pressure regulator, half way down right rear.
    Always looking for creative new ways to get bogged... :whistling:

    76 RR...sold coz fuel was expensive at 70c/l :eek:
    93 200 Tdi Disco...old faithful...sold to make way for...
    99 Td5 Disco ACE...nice drive...hopefully reliable...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    South Gippsland
    Posts
    1,007

    Fuel pump electrical connector?

    Quote Originally Posted by feraldisco View Post
    Thanks - do you mean check it for leaks or check the mesh filter that is behind it?

    I don't have the ability to check fuel pressure so can't really check if the FPR is "working" or not?
    Check for obvious leaks or signs of wetness in the area between the FPR housing and the starter motor. If you smell diesel, but only occasionally, that was in my case the beginning of my FPR failure, provided that there are no hose or connector leaks of course in that area. Changing the FPR is challenging with the inlet manifold restricting access, and if i was to do it again i would remove the inlet manifold and take the opportunity to do another unpleasant job - that of cleaning the inside of the accumulated tar and carbon goop.
    1999 build D2 TD5 AT, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans .....

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    South Gippsland
    Posts
    1,007

    Fuel pump electrical connector?

    There is a cylindrical thingo that is in the FUEL PRESSURE BLOCK and it is failure of this part that is what is commonly responsible for leaks. However I just purchased a new FPR from Roverlord to install and retained the old one as a spare to rebuild with a repair kit in next time around.
    Adjustments.JPG
    1999 build D2 TD5 AT, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans .....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    22
    My FPR started to leak toward failure, same spot your finding. Agree with Onebob...second time round I would remove the manifold moreso because my replacement kit came with new piping. Impossible for me to replace the pipe that screws toward the front of the block underneath the manifold with the manifold in place, (I changed this a few months later when I cleaned out the manifold). I couldn't find the torque values for these nuts attached to the pipe (a real pain), given they carry fuel and need to be in secure. Luckily at the start I kept the old pipe to the FPR which came loose off the FPR on the test run and later added blue loctite (at nuts on both ends) on the new pipe to avoid recurrence (dried area but not sure if effective with deisel present). Don't bother trying fancy stuff to undo the bolt with manifold in place if you get a kit with the new pipe.....for me it was a waste of time. In my case both the fuel pump and FPR went around same milaege as you. You probably should expect water pump next if not already done - when this goes also think about removing manifold and doing maintenance in that area (oil cooler seals).

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