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Thread: Fuel pump electrical connector?

  1. #1
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    Fuel pump electrical connector?

    20200426_154511.jpg

    What is the electrical connector at the left of this pic for?

  2. #2
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    Had a quick squizz.
    Seems to be the plug for the fuel pressure sensor.
    Via RAVE, that's C0132, wire colours are Red/Red-Black/Green-Pink.
    If those colours match, this sensor plug is there for the V8s, doesn't seem to be relevant for the TD5.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    Thanks. I was told that my fuel pressure was very low, so I replaced the pump...doesn't seem to have made any difference! Oh well, at least it only cost me $500 to do it myself as opposed to the $1300 wanted by a mechanic...and it's a straightforward job...and my old pump had 250,000km on it...and is now a functional spare...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by feraldisco View Post
    Thanks. I was told that my fuel pressure was very low, so I replaced the pump...doesn't seem to have made any difference! Oh well, at least it only cost me $500 to do it myself as opposed to the $1300 wanted by a mechanic...and it's a straightforward job...and my old pump had 250,000km on it...and is now a functional spare...
    LOL! measured or guessed?
    ie. are you having some symptoms and trying to diagnose?

    Reason I ask, is that just after brother got his TD5, he had some symptoms that felt like low fuel pressure, or fuel starvation.
    I'm no expert but have some success in diagnosing stuff on all my vehicles(not just landies).
    Anyhow, short story long, so to speak ... after working on the assumption that fuel pressure was low and fixing stuff that could account for this, turned out to just be injector washers(like everyone else was advising).

    And yeah, fuel pump is not easy(compared to some vehicles), but can be done easy enough by anyone with competency
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  5. #5
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    Symptom was not revving beyond 2500rpm easily or beyond 3000rpm at all. Fuel pressure was apparently only 23PSI just before the regulator and should be more like 65PSI. Haven't had it measured since fitting the new pump. I do have an occasional diesel smell when hot on the side of the engine block, so there's obviously a less than perfect seal somewhere too.

    The main challenge with the fuel pump was getting rid of 20 years of compressed bulldust from around the old pump before opening things up. After that it was pretty straightforward and certainly easier than putting a large intercooler in which was not a fun job!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by feraldisco View Post
    Thanks. I was told that my fuel pressure was very low, so I replaced the pump...doesn't seem to have made any difference! Oh well, at least it only cost me $500 to do it myself as opposed to the $1300 wanted by a mechanic...and it's a straightforward job...and my old pump had 250,000km on it...and is now a functional spare...
    That timing is bang on for the end of life for a second fuel pump. You've done extremely well if thats the original pump that has come out.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by feraldisco View Post
    Symptom was not revving beyond 2500rpm easily or beyond 3000rpm at all. Fuel pressure was apparently only 23PSI just before the regulator and should be more like 65PSI.

    Haven't had it measured since fitting the new pump. I do have an occasional diesel smell when hot on the side of the engine block, so there's obviously a less than perfect seal somewhere too.

    I had similar symptom like yours on my previous TD5 2000 7 seats 130k kms. No revving above 2500rpm if do quick, and slowly could go max 3000rpm but nothing more, then the car was surging and shuddering like it was in short of fuel or air. I bought that car as my first LR and without knowing anything about LR or D2 or TD5.

    It took me 2 months to get it back to the legend of power (free revving to red line with full torque) without spending much money but only time to read forums and try different methods. So far what I did was:

    1. Bought a new MAF sensor ($40 on ebay at that time).
    2. Bought one deleted EGR kit and fitted (this seems helped a bit).
    3. Clean the MAP sensor (nothing changed after the clean)
    4. Clean ECU wiring where the oil sucks into the connectors (Although a lot of oil there, after I clean the oil the car still had the same issue)
    5. Adjust the waste gate rod to the "SWEET SPOT" (this was the major part that really fixed the issue completely). You need to adjust and run tests several times up the hill to find out the SWEET SPOT in your car (I do believe that I did run tests more than 50 times but likely less than 100 runs )

    That fixed completely my issue before which was quite similar like weak power pump or low pressure (but DEFINITELY IT WAS NOT).

    With the diesel smell, I do believe that TD5 has a weak fuel line which is the GREEN pipe line from the fuel pump. This pipe would be leaked then broken at some time (very common). So keep an eye of this pipe at its elbow corner behind the fuel tank where it actually touch the metal body and grind itself to leaking and broken. You need to lye under the fuel tank and look up and try to check it. The 2nd weak point would be the fuel neck where some owners have leaks. The 3rd weak point would be the connectors of the pines right at the fuel filter on the right rear guard. The 4th weak point is due to the special mechanism of the fuel pump cover, if someone replaced it before then locked it in without know 100% that it was locked right, then the diesel will eventually leaks from the tank up through the rubber seal to the top of the tank. Luckily I do not have 2nd,3rd, and 4th issues, but surely I already had 2 x times with the GREEN pipe problem on 2 of the AUTO TD5.

    Hopefully you could sort it out cheap as I did

  8. #8
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    Check the fuel pressure regulator, half way down right rear.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  9. #9
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    Fuel pump electrical connector?

    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Check the fuel pressure regulator, half way down right rear.
    ...what he said Fuel pump electrical connector?
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  10. #10
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    Thanks - unfortunately I've already done all those things and much more! A couple of different MAFs over the years (although apparently a 10P motor doesn't have much use for a MAF in any case), EGR deleted, new MAP, new injector loom and cleaned ECU, adjusted wastegate many times.

    Re the diesel smell, there's nothing coming from the rear of the vehicle...only from drivers side of block sometimes when hot but no obvious leaks.




    Quote Originally Posted by maxperformance View Post
    I had similar symptom like yours on my previous TD5 2000 7 seats 130k kms. No revving above 2500rpm if do quick, and slowly could go max 3000rpm but nothing more, then the car was surging and shuddering like it was in short of fuel or air. I bought that car as my first LR and without knowing anything about LR or D2 or TD5.

    It took me 2 months to get it back to the legend of power (free revving to red line with full torque) without spending much money but only time to read forums and try different methods. So far what I did was:

    1. Bought a new MAF sensor ($40 on ebay at that time).
    2. Bought one deleted EGR kit and fitted (this seems helped a bit).
    3. Clean the MAP sensor (nothing changed after the clean)
    4. Clean ECU wiring where the oil sucks into the connectors (Although a lot of oil there, after I clean the oil the car still had the same issue)
    5. Adjust the waste gate rod to the "SWEET SPOT" (this was the major part that really fixed the issue completely). You need to adjust and run tests several times up the hill to find out the SWEET SPOT in your car (I do believe that I did run tests more than 50 times but likely less than 100 runs )

    That fixed completely my issue before which was quite similar like weak power pump or low pressure (but DEFINITELY IT WAS NOT).

    With the diesel smell, I do believe that TD5 has a weak fuel line which is the GREEN pipe line from the fuel pump. This pipe would be leaked then broken at some time (very common). So keep an eye of this pipe at its elbow corner behind the fuel tank where it actually touch the metal body and grind itself to leaking and broken. You need to lye under the fuel tank and look up and try to check it. The 2nd weak point would be the fuel neck where some owners have leaks. The 3rd weak point would be the connectors of the pines right at the fuel filter on the right rear guard. The 4th weak point is due to the special mechanism of the fuel pump cover, if someone replaced it before then locked it in without know 100% that it was locked right, then the diesel will eventually leaks from the tank up through the rubber seal to the top of the tank. Luckily I do not have 2nd,3rd, and 4th issues, but surely I already had 2 x times with the GREEN pipe problem on 2 of the AUTO TD5.

    Hopefully you could sort it out cheap as I did

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