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Thread: Hot Fuel

  1. #1
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    Hot Fuel

    I have been having problems with the engine cutting out very intermittently until today . It cut out on the way home and I just pulled over and restarted it as I normally do and continued the 5k home ,turned it off unloaded some stuff and then loaded the fridge and tied it down . I then went to start it to move into the shed and it would turn over but not fire ,so I turned the ignition off then tried again and it gave a bit of a cough ,I kept turning and it eventually fired up and run roughly for a few seconds then settled down and ran normally . I suspected that the fuel filter may have been dirty so I changed it and noticed that the filter was almost to hot to touch . after fitting the new filter I tried to start it again and had to give it a long crank with it coughing several times before it started run rough then settled down . I took it for a run and checked the fuel temp and it was 65 -68 degrees drove it home and parked it and started looking for a fuel pump .After seeing the price of pumps I thought about the problem a bit more and came to the conclusion that the fuel was maybe to hot so I let it cool down for a few hours and then tied to start it and it fired first go . .Any suggestions ? what should the fuel temp be as I have never taken any notice? could it be the thermostat ?
    No such thing as retirement when you have 3 land rovers on the road
    09 freelander 2 td4
    02 discovery td5
    99 discovery td5
    71 2a cab tray
    64 series 2 swb waiting for restoration
    69 corvette
    1927 dodge tourer still has original rego
    2 dodge trucks

  2. #2
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    fuel temp normal, if you continue to have problems with starting / cutting out , especially if the pump is making strange noises you may need to replace the fuel injector washers and o rings

  3. #3
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    Check, the fuel pump, the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel check valve(s)

    as the fuel heats up when you shut down it will evaporate in the rail, and if any of the one way valves are leaking then it may not redraw when the fuel cools down. Similarly they may not allow the rail to maintain pressure if faulty.

    if you think of it as the modern version of a vapour lock you're on the right path.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
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    As long as the fuel temp reading stays 10-20*C below the coolant temp it's normal behaviour and the problem is elswhere... a usual suspect for the symptom you described is the crank sensor, when it's on it's way out it used to misbehave when it gets hot but the injector copper washers are a good hint as well
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  5. #5
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    If you go looking at Injector washers Doug, as mentioned and o rings, changing injector harness and if you go looking at fuel pressure regulator don’t forget the mesh filter behind it in the block.
    Rob

  6. #6
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    Thank you for your replies I did a bit more research and I think I can discount the fuel cooler and its thermostat . If it is the crank angle sensor would I get a fault code ? When it cut out there was a code that said something about each injector being long ,cant remember the exact wording . When it would not start there were no fault codes . When trying to start it when hot it was just like the perkins engine in my old chamberlain that had not been started for at least 6 months ,just winds over and nothing .so I bleed the pump and crack a couple of injector pipes then crank , it winds over for a bit gives a couple of coughs then fires when I nip the injector line . I think I might start with the fuel pressure regulator ,it was replaced a few months ago but that means nothing . From my research the pressure regulator controls the return fuel to keep the correct pressure in the head so if the pressure disappears when the fuel could possibly evaporate just like the cooling system so when I try to start it it would be the same as air the fuel gallery , when it is cold it would have condensed and the fuel pump supplied enough pressure to start , probably the theory fits leaking o rings and washers to .
    No such thing as retirement when you have 3 land rovers on the road
    09 freelander 2 td4
    02 discovery td5
    99 discovery td5
    71 2a cab tray
    64 series 2 swb waiting for restoration
    69 corvette
    1927 dodge tourer still has original rego
    2 dodge trucks

  7. #7
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    The crank sensor can be cheap with codes as long as it's not completely fubar. If you've got "injector peak charge long" codes then check the ECM red plug ASAP cos it might be full of oil then your problem can be caused by the injector loom cos the solenoid contacts are more affected by hot oil and you have to change it ... only use genuine LR cos i've seen aftermarkets which leaked after 3 months, though if you get there replace the washers and seals too just to rule them out for good
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  8. #8
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    my bad, I fault found for v8 not TD5....

    same principles however no fuel evaporation, there is also a bleed out valve down in the fuel pump block in the tank that has been known to cause issues.

    if the crank angle sensor fails you get no running, injector long code can be caused by areated fuel if you get it with a combination of big cylinder balance deviations at the same time.

    From memory injector long is a self clearing code if there is no recurrance for several starts.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    As long as the fuel temp reading stays 10-20*C below the coolant temp it's normal behavior and the problem is elswhere... a usual suspect for the symptom you described is the crank sensor, when it's on it's way out it used to misbehave when it gets hot but the injector copper washers are a good hint as well
    That was the code I will check the connection first thing as I replaced the harness about 5 months ago but it was supposedly an OEM harness but there is guarantee that it was . I am starting to think I have 2 problems as the cutting out is an engine management problem and the non start is a mechanical problem because when the engine cools a bit and I try to start it it will pop pop as if it has air in the fuel system and once running it is normal, no power loss .
    No such thing as retirement when you have 3 land rovers on the road
    09 freelander 2 td4
    02 discovery td5
    99 discovery td5
    71 2a cab tray
    64 series 2 swb waiting for restoration
    69 corvette
    1927 dodge tourer still has original rego
    2 dodge trucks

  10. #10
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    That is a common symptom of failed injector washers

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