Planned Upgrade of Stock Standard TD5

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Originally Posted by TroyMortimer

I've got a Jose map, I found engine and auto improved on steep descents, however I still need to use the handbrake to feather down steep technical sections. I wish I had a lower low range too.

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It really is the problem we have in Aus, we have to get there first.

Depending on where the entry even to the easy accessible high country is, can easily be four hours+ driving at speed and hence the issue of wanting lower off road but maintaining some semblance of decorum rather than it screaming its guts off... Driving from Melbourne to the Cape and back with the engine at 3K RPM???

How do people go when towing and being in third may be a good indication if it is close to viable.

Pretty much all of this has been covered before numerous times over previous threads.

For the automatic transmission the biggest improvement is the V8 torque converter. I fitted the Ashcroft Transmission unit years ago, but there are others that offer the same thing now (including locally in Australia) and Ashcroft have changed their setup.

The factory exhaust pipe sizing is fine for most applications. Replacing the cans with high flow units will be beneficial though and not overly expensive.

A VNT setup and associated tune makes a large difference.

If your not willing to upgrade turbochargers then just a tune still makes a difference and should improve fuel economy if that's one of your aims.

I'd suggest upgrading the intercooler with a good quality unit - AliSport, Serck Motorsport, PWR or some like product.

As from Ashcroft-Transmissions ATBs I would purchase the Eaton Truetracs rather. The ATB's used to be the cheaper offering but recently the Truetracs have been cheaper. Regardless, there's a number of issues that have arisen over time with the ATBs which make the Eaton the safer choice even if you pay a bit more.
Personally, depending on your use I'd consider the Eaton Detroit in the rear for more drive.
ATB centre diff isn't a huge game changer so I'd skip if budget is important and your not already rebuilding the transfer box.

As for diff gears - determine your tyre size and then work from there to determine the appropriate ratio for what you want. Personally I regeared back to stock as it's perfect. The VNT adds significantly to the low down so I found lower gearing wasn't needed.

For reliability I'd suggest budgeting a reskimmed and ceramic coated exhaust manifold - your current one will warp over time with use anyway.
For that plus better performance go with the Alisport/CJM replacement manifold.

Similarly, if you haven't already get rid of the EGR and make sure your running silicone intercooler hoses.
And then consider a ProVent installation.

And I'd highly suggest some monitoring - EGT, coolant low level alarm at a minimum - MadMan EMS products cover this well.

As said though, all above has been covered numerous times in details so if your chasing more details it's all there accessible with a few searches on the terms now that you know what to read about...

And I'd be getting rid of your bits with Terrafirma on them if your wanting anything to be decent...

If you turn the spanners yourself it's probably do able, just, within your budget, roughly:
VNT and tune - $2,500.00
Intercooler and hoses - $1,000.00
Trutracs and diff gears - $2,500.00
MadMan - $500.00
Exhaust and manifold - $1,000.00
Leaving you $500.00 towards saving to get some better brand suspension products...
You'll likely find though as you start other expenses will arise and issues needing care of - worn suspension bushes, ball joints, brakes, extended brake lines, etc.

Just to chime in.

The biggest restriction to modifying a D2 is that everything you do to enhance performance will increase EGTs to a dangerous level. Unless you do stuff early to lower EGTs you are at a zero sum game as as soon as you use the extra performance you go into scary EGTs.

I have to drive by my EGT gauge to keep under 700C on hills when towing and I have a Serck intercooler and free flow exhaust with a *** delete.

I found that a boost increase is the cheapest and most effective way within limits to reduce EGTs, and I have disconnected my boost modulator and run a Turbo smart manual boost limiter set at 22PSI. My ECU map has been optimised for boost cutoff but over that you will need an emulator. In any case the stock turbo becomes inefficient at over 22PSI.

The rear resonator is flow through so no need to change that, but I suggest a Powerflow lightly baffled muffler or maybe a bigger straight through, not no main muffler or the drone will drive you mad.

Even a gearing change by 5% will also increase EGTs on the highway so make sure your gearing is near stock.

Regards PhilipA

I'd advise not going above 32s as your acceleration will be slower, you will have to change down earlier on hills, your braking distances will be longer and you may get a steering wobble.
Remember too that it if your speedo reads less than your actual speed your vehicle will be unroadworthy and your registration and insurance may be invalid.

OMG!
I’ve owned 3 D2 Td5’s. 2 of the 3 were remapped, all ran 32’s with NO changes to ratios, I just used GPS to compensate the speedo. I NEVER had a problem with EGT’s (had a gauge in each of them), although I DID keep an eye on them when towing in the high country. I never had any issue with engine braking (all were auto), I rarely used HDC as I always thought it was a bit fast. I learned instead to ‘Drive though the brakes’, google that and you’ll find out what it means if you don’t know. It’s funny, so many people on forums such as this one were quick to poo poo the D2 because it was too complicated and had too much tech..... now those people are trying to complicate it further!
Just my 2 bob but try this..... DRIVE IT for a while doing all the things you want to do. THEN decide on the mods.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wardy1

I’ve owned 3 D2 Td5’s. 2 of the 3 were remapped, all ran 32’s with NO changes to ratios, I just used GPS to compensate the speedo.

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Yes, but we all have different expectations and levels of acceptance and do different things with our vehicles. Personally I've run 32's on the standard setup and didn't like it. I now run 33's and have regeared the diffs and corrected the speedometer to suit - it's much much nicer - it drives like it left the factory meant to be this way...

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Yes, but we all have different expectations and levels of acceptance and do different things with our vehicles. Personally I've run 32's on the standard setup and didn't like it. I now run 33's and have regeared the diffs and corrected the speedometer to suit - it's much much nicer - it drives like it left the factory meant to be this way...

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I totally agree that we all have different expectations etc. My point though is sound. BEFORE spending countless thousands on mods, be sure of what you are trying to achieve, and if by making the mods, you will in fact GET what you are wanting. The only way to truly assess this is to drive the car for a while and work out which mod is a main priority and which ones are merely 'wishes'.

My D2's were very well equipped with lockers, winches and so on. Would I spend the money on a front locker again? Probably not since it was virtually never used. A winch on the other hand has been proven as a worthwhile accessory many many times.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Yes, but we all have different expectations and levels of acceptance and do different things with our vehicles. Personally I've run 32's on the standard setup and didn't like it. I now run 33's and have regeared the diffs and corrected the speedometer to suit - it's much much nicer - it drives like it left the factory meant to be this way...

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Interested in you observation of the diff ratio's you chose. Would you stay or in retrospect change to a different size. Assuming of course you used Aschrofts did you change the ratio in the transfer case as well?



32 or 33 " I think as I said initially, good deal get the 33"s but in wanting to go back to the SLS you get that extra height in reserve anyway.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Pretty much all of this has been covered before numerous times over previous threads.

For the automatic transmission the biggest improvement is the V8 torque converter. I fitted the Ashcroft Transmission unit years ago, but there are others that offer the same thing now (including locally in Australia) and Ashcroft have changed their setup.

The factory exhaust pipe sizing is fine for most applications. Replacing the cans with high flow units will be beneficial though and not overly expensive.

A VNT setup and associated tune makes a large difference.

If your not willing to upgrade turbochargers then just a tune still makes a difference and should improve fuel economy if that's one of your aims.

I'd suggest upgrading the intercooler with a good quality unit - AliSport, Serck Motorsport, PWR or some like product.

As from Ashcroft-Transmissions ATBs I would purchase the Eaton Truetracs rather. The ATB's used to be the cheaper offering but recently the Truetracs have been cheaper. Regardless, there's a number of issues that have arisen over time with the ATBs which make the Eaton the safer choice even if you pay a bit more.
Personally, depending on your use I'd consider the Eaton Detroit in the rear for more drive.
ATB centre diff isn't a huge game changer so I'd skip if budget is important and your not already rebuilding the transfer box.

As for diff gears - determine your tyre size and then work from there to determine the appropriate ratio for what you want. Personally I regeared back to stock as it's perfect. The VNT adds significantly to the low down so I found lower gearing wasn't needed.

For reliability I'd suggest budgeting a reskimmed and ceramic coated exhaust manifold - your current one will warp over time with use anyway.
For that plus better performance go with the Alisport/CJM replacement manifold.

Similarly, if you haven't already get rid of the EGR and make sure your running silicone intercooler hoses.
And then consider a ProVent installation.

And I'd highly suggest some monitoring - EGT, coolant low level alarm at a minimum - MadMan EMS products cover this well.

As said though, all above has been covered numerous times in details so if your chasing more details it's all there accessible with a few searches on the terms now that you know what to read about...

And I'd be getting rid of your bits with Terrafirma on them if your wanting anything to be decent...

If you turn the spanners yourself it's probably do able, just, within your budget, roughly:
VNT and tune - $2,500.00
Intercooler and hoses - $1,000.00
Trutracs and diff gears - $2,500.00
MadMan - $500.00
Exhaust and manifold - $1,000.00
Leaving you $500.00 towards saving to get some better brand suspension products...
You'll likely find though as you start other expenses will arise and issues needing care of - worn suspension bushes, ball joints, brakes, extended brake lines, etc.

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Thanks there a lot in here to ponder.
Auto - TIck

Exhaust, not overly concerned, will look to deweb as a priority. EGR have the kit and when I am doing the water and intake hoses (silicon all), will remove it then

VNT / EGT / Intercooler - hmmm, require a tune anyway for the auto TC so that's a given. Ultimate performance is not a priority, low down torque certainly is. Anything approaching 400Nm around 1500-2000 optimal. Am concerned re the EGT and setting myself a build that keeps to the low 600's if possible.

The conundrum of gearing is more on the highway than off road, checking out the calculator can get to what I desire OFF road, but as I stated earlier, have no desire to be at 3000 rpm on the cruise. Stock, iI take it you went the 1.4 in the transfer box then? Am concerned on level of engine braking and getting this as strong as possible within the budget for me is a priority.

Terrafirma seem to the be the Melbourne Demons of Discovery support...

Now the one I don't get re the Ashcroft ATB's, have read over the last year a lot on the choices of ATB's versus Lockers, if I was to keep the TDi 300 (no left knee so manual has to go) was going to use a locker in the rear ATB front. Yet to see a disaster story re Ashcrofts or that there may be an inherent design problem - worst or funniest was some bloke up to his axles in ooooppp and all four wheels churning round saying the ATB's aint effective, HELLLLLLOOOOO!!!

Anyway, if I am wrong no problem, but as I have gleaned, ATB's with a lightly applied left foot on the brake, (aiding not replacing TC) will do at 95% if not more, the same as a Locker? And if there is a requirement to upgrade axles as well, the budget gets stretched immediately.

Price wise there is (converted to Aus) $400 difference to the Trutracs, then another $400 to the Quaife.

Although I drive Audi q's and the reassurance of the Torsen in the middle, agreed not concerned with this in the TD5.

One of the things I hadn't previously mentioned is that I very much want to put in a Davies Electric Waterpump - this does the job of a temp alarm with the benefit of being able to turn the engine off and keep cooling going.

The one that I have to reassess is the VNT or Hyrbid core, dont think I have given this enough thought.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Just to chime in.

The biggest restriction to modifying a D2 is that everything you do to enhance performance will increase EGTs to a dangerous level. Unless you do stuff early to lower EGTs you are at a zero sum game as as soon as you use the extra performance you go into scary EGTs.

I have to drive by my EGT gauge to keep under 700C on hills when towing and I have a Serck intercooler and free flow exhaust with a *** delete.

I found that a boost increase is the cheapest and most effective way within limits to reduce EGTs, and I have disconnected my boost modulator and run a Turbo smart manual boost limiter set at 22PSI. My ECU map has been optimised for boost cutoff but over that you will need an emulator. In any case the stock turbo becomes inefficient at over 22PSI.

The rear resonator is flow through so no need to change that, but I suggest a Powerflow lightly baffled muffler or maybe a bigger straight through, not no main muffler or the drone will drive you mad.

Even a gearing change by 5% will also increase EGTs on the highway so make sure your gearing is near stock.

Regards PhilipA

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Phillip do you have with your tune a V8 TC fitted? If so did this assist in keeping EGT's down, went and purchased this already under the belief that this will go a long way to achieve this, so long as you don't put too high a tune in.

Do you think I would achieve my 400Nm at around 1500 - 2000 RPM with a standard exhaust and keeping it as you have stated below 22 PSi?? Do have the D2a already and am contemplating an upgrade if required/